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StevieDvd

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Everything posted by StevieDvd

  1. PA (alignment) is being done - so needs to be at the mount but normal usage is remote. Hence if the wifi dongle works from the house it can also be used with the SynScan app to align at the mount. SW wifi is around £60 though I know a diy can be done have not done this myself.
  2. Have you considered using the Synscan wifi connection? That will let you use an app on your phone (and your indoor pc) to move the mount whilst still having it connected to other controlling software. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can also make the diy equivalent of the wifi unit as the synscan app is free.
  3. OK first relax, seems no major damage has occurred and you are dealing with reputable suppliers and brands. The EQ6 mount may have a USB port on it which can be used with a simple USB printer cable - but the Asiair Pro does not have a driver that recognises all of the EQ6 mounts due to updates to the mount, ZWO provide an update to fix this (it's a kernel update in the Raspberry Pi inside the Asiair). This uses baud rate 115200. If you have an eqmod/eqdir cable that uses baud 9600 not 115200 The DSLR needs certain settings to be spotted by the Asiair as per the manual Camera Mode: M Shutter Mode: Bulb Image Format: RAW (RAW + JPEG not available) Image Quality: L (maximum size) In addition turn off any any power saving mode or long exposure noise reduction. If using a DSLR camera with mirror lock functions you should also turn these functions off. Check the PSU is working as that is fused (if have you a multi-meter to check it). The Lynx Astro Silicone Power Cable 2.1mm DC Socket to GX12-2 DC Jack has no protection as FLO warn on the product page so if a fuse was blown it may be the psu. Or were you powering the mount via the Asiair? You'll get plenty of help here to assist in setting up once the fault has been rectified.
  4. Good. It's not been a bug free insider process moving the parts a bit at a time to the Win 11 equivalents but has been stable enough and enough that I would not like to go back to Win10. Had a few upgrades which failed and backed themselves out, and a nightmare with a mischevious task-bar which kept losing the iconsbut everything settled down now. On build 2200.282 today (Win 11 Pro) via an update - not sure how that compares with the upgrade version. BTW - first thing I did with the new taskbar is to ask for an option to set it back to left-hand justified )well me and a lot of other insiders )
  5. A good time for an image backup of the OS disk/partition then Was the issue the settings in the bios or enabling TPM in the control app?
  6. It may help others to give a better answer if you tell us the firmware version of the AZ-Gti and if you are using it in AZ or EQ mode. Here's the readme from firmware version 3.36 showing the firmware changes. Release Note_RightArm.txt
  7. Looks good, you can try the tpm.msc command to launch the TPM control panel. It may need to be activated to be discovered.
  8. Don't get one it will stop working at night and won't switch DST automatically.
  9. I confess never to have had my Sky-Watcher AZ-EQ6 GT Pro in AZ mode since I bought it (used) over 5 years ago, it's mounted on a pier in the garden all year around.
  10. There's a non-MS app on github to do a detailed/explaining check for pass/fails. Your's may be simply that a BIOS update/settings is needed. My PC Health check shows thus:
  11. A full Linux Desktop is still better off standalone or in a VM. The WSL is fine for command line and running the gui apps you want - such as gedit and python ide's.
  12. I've been running a win11 version on my PC as part of the Windows Insider program for Win10, so when an early upgrade to win11 was released to me it installed fine, Only a few updates later it warned of the CPU/TPM requirements but gave a bypass with a warning about lack of updates on unsupported hardware. There are some registry changes to allow you to upgrade but have similar warnings about support. Things that I like about Win11 are the support for an embedded Linux (it can even run some Linux apps in gui mode) and it will have the option to run Android apps too. It is supposed to be more secure and prevent some of the ransomware from getting control of your system, which I think is why the TPM later CPU requirements come in. I've been keeping my fingers crossed that the requirements will be officially relaxed so older but reasonable machines can use it too (that would explain any typos in my threads).
  13. No, the offset just has to be consistent during the PA process.
  14. If your shorter exposures are OK and PA is good then yes use the autoguider, a quick peek of the mount manual shows it has an ST4 port so that option has been allowed for.
  15. I can see you have auto meridian flip unchecked (for short term keep it that way, long term set it when you need to and are versed in it's use). There should be another setting for the Limits to see iff it's checked or not too, 'mount limits' .
  16. Tracking is the mount moving in time with the stars which is fine for observing and short exposures. - if off you get star trails. It is not the same as guiding which is a system of following a guide star and auto-correcting the mount position in small increments and allows longer exposures. If you switch tracking on the platesolve should work and if your Polar alignment is good the short exposures should be much better. It looks like you have settings for where a Meridian flip should occur active and this has halted tracking. The LIMIT part is that you have reached the limit settings stored and again this stops tracking - you can switch those off. I've not used eqmod Ascom for some time so can't point you at the settings controls for these 2 options from memory.
  17. I would have suggested a 12v/10A supply wihich was split between the Asiair & the ZWO cooled camera. Also, to use some of the usb ports on the camera too. The Asiaair tends to get hotter as you near its maximum power usage so best to keep that down as much as possible too.
  18. Sure is a way. Easier if you can plug a network cable connected to the home network into the Astroberry before booting up: Details with some pictures on theis SGL thread same process for Astroberry & Stellarmate too.
  19. A better comparison is a Drone with software only on Mac, they add the same software to Windows as requested by users. You don't get a free drone if you install the Windows version
  20. Good to hear. I read up a bit moe on autofocusing and how the settings in NINA worked as well as looking for details on the Pegasus Focuer. On average it seems the adjustment is around 100, for the NINA setting you add a safety margin to that so about 130 would be a figure to use if it works as expected. So if your backlash was 10 you'd still add about 30. A youtube video showed someone measuring the backlash in downtime (cloudy or during day) Basically you start at zero position and tell focuser to goto 1000 - that sets the gears ready to start. Next you measure the focus extended length call it L1. Then tell the focuser to got 5000 and measure that and call that L2. Lastly, tell the focuser to go back to 1000 and measure again call that L3. If there is backlash L3 will be less than L2 - the difference being the backlash. You could then tell the focuser to go in with 10 steps at a time until L3 = L2
  21. When using software for diy focusers it's quite common for the in/out direction to be reversed so there is normally an option to flip it back. So you may be putting the adjustment in the wrong box. Does the NINA setting allow you to put both an IN & OUT backlash value? For clarity what was the max setting you ended up with, and was this focus point anywhere fully in or out?
  22. If you loosen the grub screw temporarily you can measure the travel of the focuser between zero & max - let's say that was 250mm Now reset the focuser to your zero start point & re-tighten grub screw. Now move say 1000 steps - we can say that was 10mm as an example. So max position would be 25,000 (25 lots of 1000 would move 250mm). Steve
  23. As Stuart has said. OK so the motor focus systems use a start (zero position), I usually recommend this is a few mm from fully inwward as well. Next is to measure the distance out the max position is and work out how many steps that equates to. Again leave it shy of a few mm so you have a small safety factor each end. In the software you then set zero at the inward setting and the number of steps to max setting. If you find a nice focus say mid-way is handy there are usually presets that can be saved to make that a goto focus point. But the position is not remembered on power off so always park the focuser at a set position (inward home for example). HTH Steve
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