StevieDvd

I found a link to a PDF previously added in an SGL thread and have attached it here for you. It mentions testing for collimation errors in the focuser and objective problems. Only name I can find is in the properties of the PDF, so thanks to Phil for the document. Hope it may help. collimation_adventures-1.pdf

Could it simply be that the focus tube is not holding position as it used to and is able to move enough to lose the critical focus you had before. Is the line on the focus tube a marked position used for your earlier focus point which now results in the off focus? Perhaps someone with more technical knowledge can say whether a bhatinov mask would help in testing the focus, do you have one? I'm sure there are plenty here who have had the focuser off their SWED80 either to replace with an upgrade or to tweak. What do you think about the idea of loosening the 3 screws holding the focuser on and re-locating it so it fits snugly as before and re-tightening them? Perhaps if there is a simple focus test that can be done before and after, the refit might be an option to consider. I was knocking up a 3d print design for my 2 ED80 scopes to hold the cap on the end as they drop out far too easily, now you've got me thinking to check mine for collimation again and to do a laser holder instead!

Yes I looked in the AZ-GTi manual, and the PDF you referred to as well, and did not find a mention of entering the DST setting - that's only appearing in the generic handset instructions. I expect the apps are expected to handover the information and the AZ-Gti sets it in UTC format to be safe.

I help others on as much as possible regarding Astronomy, here and on FB pages for AsiaAir, Stellarmate & Astroberry if that's trolling I'll continue but I prefer the Silver Surfer accolade. And the other members here also do a lot to help out whether new to the forum or old timers. To be honest the link you sent is too messy and hardwork to navigate so I won't be adding it to my saved list. Yes, ZWO manuals are short and updated very infrequently, so if that site has helped you then good. Steve

I can see why you pause for thought on this. But considering UTC time entry is shown on the mount and is correct, and your tablet shows the BST time (UTC +1hr) that matches that it should be fine. Without a handset your AZ-Gti gets the location, time, date etc from the phone/tablet and set's the UTC on the mount for you. There is no stage here that you need to enter if you are DST or not. However, connecting a handset is likely to ask you based on the month (as per handbook) so I don't know what you should respond given the above text from the AAP.

Err they do see here https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/manuals-guides I quote from them all the time and have downloaded copies for any ZWO gear I have.

I saw on CN that the RC focusers use the same thread as the C80ED (M90x1) - whether that is correct I can't say but could open up the fitting of an RC unit, possibly with an extender if required. Or maybe an RC adapter which could be more readily available. But best check this first in case CN thread is wrong.

Possibly the simplest is to use Synscan Pro for PC to control the mount and download/install the ZWO drivers. Then hopefully, Sharpcap will detect the camera, if not ZWO have capture software in ASIStudio. For more intensive use, such as guiding, plate-solving and more then NINA & ASCOM/EQMOD may be on your horizon. If Linux is more to your taste the we can recommend for that platorm too.

A little tip from an old IT worker. Bad code can allow a setting to be mis-intepreted or uninitialised. If it does not handle all the cases it can cause unexpected results. In this case it could be the code was checking for a value of Y or N, but having never been set before it's blank. By setting a value you triggered the correct code, and you won't be able to set it back to blank anymore. I've rejected far too many code reviews doing this and seen clients report the errors it can cause. To make matters worse some coders set the default in the wrong place so when screenshots are provided the values are set after the code failed. That's why 'turning it off & on again' usually works the next time. To be fair once explained the coder seldom repeats the error and newer software languages tend to prevent uninitialised variables.

So are you saying that you can have an object centred and the co-ordinates displayed don't match those you have from another source? What are you using to confirm? And how are you sure the mount is OK? If it's the goto that's not working then the usual suspects are the date/time, location etc (Daylight saving y/n), low power or sticking/loose clutches. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but as I understand it the catalog of objects is held in the handset with standard co-ordinates, these are used together with the location, time etc to calculate the current co-ordinates and to instruct the mount how many steps to move to get there. Hence a simple time or date error can result in failed goto's. More info would be helpful as there are several avenues to check out to get you sorted.

ZWO ASI178MM Mono arrived today as a replacement for my old DMK41 which does not want to play nicely anymore. So I guess it's me to blame for the thunder and rain we are experiencing today!!! But at least it's a bit cooler.☹️

I have added the second Z axis motor and re-levelled the bed using the mesh viewer, several iterations until all the numbers were as near to 0 as possible, though as some were positive and others negative it's not possible to get all at zero. I then adjusted the z offet during a test print as the new firmware makes that easy. Prints have been good since then.

Also, let us know what you plan to do, image or observe? Then we can tailor the info to your needs. And any other equipment like the scope and camera(s) and software you plan to use. It all helps (as we do).

In most places the home position is stated as weights down pointing at the NCP (or SCP) but in reality it can be whatever you choose, as long as the mount knows what the co-ordinates and your scope is started at that position (and that your PA, date, time & locations are set properly). See this thread for some pointers in setting a mark for the 'standard' home position on an HEQ5. I usually say to people not to trust the accuracy of their home position unless it's returned to that by the mount and is not moved manually. Setting it manually helps but you won't be exact like the mount expects, this is why the scope normally expects to go through a 1 to 3 star alignment. Before I stated using platesolving I used to start at my rough home position, do a goto and centre that by moving the scope manually (not with the handset), then any goto should be accurate enough for visual or non-guided sessions.

The noise reduction is a great benefit of the belt mod, listening to a non belt mount sets my teeth on edge now. It's also more neighbour friendly.

Best option is to use a wifi extender with it connected to the Pi4 ethernet, then use it as a wifi hotspot or connect it to another wifi system. If you are happy to download and install a linux driver then any Linux capable external one should be OK. Otherwise you can modifiy the Pi4 board (or get it done) to add an external aerial. As a side note I have an old Buffalo external extender/aerial that works on Stellarmate, Astroberry & Asiair using a standard driver on the Pi so there must be a few others that can do that too perhaps others can add to that. This site may be of help too.

1. Yes you can get the app and use a vnc session to control the Stellarmate. I went the OS only route. 2. Stellarmate uses the indi drivers so if there is a driver for your it would work on Stellarmate (and Astroberry) see https://www.indilib.org/devices.html 3. Have a look at the Stellarmate app on appstore to see if it works on your device or the Stellarmate web site 4. In terms of ease of setup the Asiair wins, next comes Stellarmate and then Astroberry. You can get help here or on the FB sites for any of those 3. 5. Astroberry is free but has no app, you can control it from a browser using vnc (easy on both Stellarmate & Astroberry) as it is preset on the Linux OS for you. If you buy the hardware first (Raspberry Pi) you can try out the astroberry free and can use that to get to know the basics and hardware that wors on that will work on Stellarmate too. Stellarmate is updated a bit more frequently and you get support having bought the OS, though both the authors of Astroberry & Stellarmate are usually found on forums & FB.

https://www.facebook.com/stellarmate/posts/1266871613768740 The above is a quick peek at the new board being built for Stellarmate using the new form factor Raspberry PI compute modules (CM4). Can't wait till we see the proposed casing, I'd think a nice bright red metal case would be a good idea so various cameras etc match.😀 Steve

Use the https://pegasusastro.com/downloads and scroll down to older products. There select the download tab for your products and the files you may need should be simple click to download.

Not sure if we have answered your orignal question about comparing the guide camera view to the polar alignment view. They will be different as the guide camera will have a larger field of view. When the PA apps use this camera to calculate your PA position it takes a couple of pictures and platesolves them to work out of your axis (PA) is correct. The PA routines need your location, date and time to be set correctly.

As you've made the purchase of the Asiair Pro (AAP) then let's stick with help on using that. The weak point of any of the Pi based systems is the wifi, worse if the case is metal. I'd recommend an external wifi extender that plugs into your Asiair ethernet to bridge that weakest link - this would either connect to your home network or be the base station for use away from home (changed between these setups by the config options of the extender). Down the line you can try using Astroberry sdcard in the as there are now indi drivers to utilise the power ports too. As others have said the AAP limits the equipment that can be connected to the ZWO world (apart from certain DSLR cameras), so your electronic focuser, filter and guide camera must be ZWO. And if you upgrade the imaging camera from a DSLR then again it has to be a ZWO. * except if Astroberry is used as the OS.

Thanks, I have downloaded that firmware for my printer (with the BLTouch and a 3x3 sectioning). Will see if that can help, it does look more useful and has active updates. When Amazon Prime sale was on I bought some new filament colours and an enclosure to keep the current spool dry to see if that helps. I'm likely to get an enclosure and a dual z axis as my next upgrades, before I get too deep into anything else. Hopefully the enclosure will help the most to keep the temperature stable, as I think that's my main issue outstanding. Thanks Steve

I've been using 205/60 for first layer and 200/60 for rest. Best results were with base cleaned with water/washing up liquid first then Isopropyl spray. The base is the standard carborundum glass. I'm using the latest Marlin firmware from the Creality site, that has the zero live adjustment and can show the offset for 9 sections - that helped in getting them almost the same. What extras will the Jyers give? Thanks Steve

Most people who say they are Excel/Word experts can't even record a macro let alone write a function. They should be OK with Libre or OpenOffice but they seem to think it's more complicated 🙄