StevieDvd

If you are using it in eq mode then forget bubbles, the PA process will take care of the mount alignment. It's nice to be level to make the adjustments a little easier/logical but by no means essential. And probably in Alt/Az mode the mount alignment process makes a note of the levelling and allows for it.

I'll need extensive training to change the filament 😀 based on the fact I was puzzled why there was nothing coming out of the print nozzle - it helped when I pushed the filament into the tubing rather than just the feeder head where it had not even got into the feed hole. I thought it was automatic, doh. I ma change the springs and get the BL Touch too as I may not be leaving the printer in the same location, just moving to a flat table when needed. But not until I've got the cases designed and printed.

Mine arrived yesterday and assembled it last night, too late to do the test print. I was a little wary about the levelling, as one side needed a lot more adjusting than the other, leaving the adjuster very loose to get the nozzle near to the plate. I double checked the height above the bed of the 'z' arm and adjusted this by loosening the screws on the 'z' passive block and made sure each side of the bed was the same height. That last adjustment improved the bed levelling and I proceeded with the test dog print which came out virtually perfect. Now wondering if I should have gone for the BL touch as well to be safer. Also had 3 of the black bolts left over and had to triple check if they were spares or I'd missed something. First proper print should be some casing for arduino based focuser motor boards.

I presume you are trying somethhing like mentioned in this thread which could be tricky to replicate if the commercial bracket has a preset angle to cater for its offset from the actual polar axis of the mount. Though if your bracket is fixed and you can contrive to align the polarscope using a distant point during the day (tv aerial etc) as one would on a standard eq mount, then I suppose it would work.

If you're happy & familiar with the mount just put a wanted ad in SGL (and ABS UK as well) for SW wifi adapter, they can go cheap sometimes.

I don't think it helps too much as a single platesolve. I doubt it could tell you if you were polar aligned or not. Did you upload a fits image or jpg/png? Only the fits format would have any technical position data embedded. To polar align using platesolving needs at least 2 solves to work out how far out your polar axis is from what it should be. Let's say we assume the software does the first solve to capture your first image, and when you goto the next target it should be perfectly aligned, if it then does the next solve and the co-ordinates don't match it knows you are not aligned correctly and calculates the error (offset) from what it should be. So for the single upload to be useful it would need to know what co-ordinates the image was supposed to be and compare that with the actual solved image. Well that's my simple explanation, the full process may be a little more detailed 😀 and I would be happy to be corrected if I've got anything wrong.

Polar aligning with a scope is normally done on the axis of the eq (wedge in this case), though a camera on the scope will suffice for the software PA software. You won't need to keep the PA software running once aligned, but if imaging you may as well use the platesolving for centering and repeat positioning of your chosen targets.

Using the Pegasus to focus would be a stepper motor connection, for that session the focuser needs to know where it is so taking manual control would not be advisable. Sure, for a manual session using the focuser manually would be fine, so as recommended above a belt driven or moonlite focuser could be an option. Something like the Deepskydad autofocuser could be a possibility as it may be able to use the Pegasus and it has a belt so may be possible to use manually. To take advantage of the auto focusing options in Ascom or IndiLib equivalent your Pegasus unit will be supported. Leaving you with a choice of diy stepper motor/bracket or a pre-made one.

I would err on the side of it not working. The SW Wi-Fi connector has 2 modes, one where it is the wi-fi host and provides its own ip address, the other where it can be switched to running on another wi-fi host and get the ip address from that. Unless there is an off the shelf USB wi-fi dongle (that can be host & client), that would seem to be a stumbling point. There are, I believe, some diy projects to do this though.

Me too arrived yesterday, thought with the lighter nights coming I could revisit the moon and try to get some imaging done based on the atlas detailed information instead of random luck.

It seems like you have started well. Using Polemaster to PA means that you can't really get too much wrong. It uses platesolving so would not go through it's full process if you were not pointing in the right direction and using the correct stars. The point you made about spinning the mount is sort of right. I can only explain using Polaris as an example, and assuming my polarscope was correctly aligned. Once polaris was in it's correct position in the polarscope reticule then spinning the mount would make polaris stay in the guide circle as you'd be manually imitating the movement of polaris over a 24 hour period. So if your screen has a marker for the SCP and stars stay on a circle around that point I would say your mount is aligned. Once you have correct PA, then the next step is to check your goto accuracy. Even with perfect PA this can go wrong as it also depends on the date/time - the mount will expect a target to be on a known point of that circle (as per above) around the pole and if your clock is wrong it will look in the wrong spot, so date/time are important. Loose clutches or out of balance setups can have an impact as well. Hope that helps and encourages too. Steve

I thought at first the chalked marks were some ancient invocation for clear skies, but perhaps in reality a reminder from self/partner!! 😉

If it helps, even as a temporary solution, see this SGL thread, in that I used some wickes furniture pad for oversized rings on my scopes, others used velcro or leather. Surprised you're still waiting for the felt from FLO - they must be getting it from Skywatcher I suppose, hence the delay. OOPs - sorry missed the point that FLO are sending replacement rings which you are waiting for - not the felt !!!

I received a parcel from FLO today, posted yesterday, so well done FLO & RM. It contained 2 ADM dovetail clamps, marked for Tak but bought as the holes were 35mm spaced and just what was needed to replace the existing economy style clamps. Not a fan of these 'cheap' fixed width clamps with the small central moving part as you have to slide the scope in by the dovetail, which can be tricky. The ADM ones come with 2 bolts (M8 I think) but the existing bolts were smaller and fitted just as good. I've posted a picture of them in case anyone else is looking to replace one of the 'standard base clamps' with something better. The ADM are dual support and similar to the ones used on the AZ-GTi replacement kits (only cheaper and no intermediate adapter needed). Apologies though - I grabbed the last 2 in stock at FLO.

Depending on what software you are using it is normally possible to load an existing image, which is then platesolved, to use to centre your current view - so you can do further images to improve on previous sessions captures.

A finderscope is aligned with the main telescope so you can centre the same object in both, and use the wider feld of view of the finder to scan for an object then use the main scope to view. It's easy to expect the guidescope to work the same, but it only needs to be 'fixed' in relation to the main scope. You may be imaging a DSO but select a star to guide on (and normally the guide star chosen won't be central in the guidescope anyway. This more sense over time when you select a good star for a guide, which could be in any part of the field of view, of the guide window. The 'fixed' part is the relationship between the imaging and guide scopes, if the guide star moves then so would the DSO, correcting one also corrects the other. If the guidescope was loose (flexure) that would ruin the relationship between them and screw up the corrections.

If you look at the pictures on the TS site it shows the balance a little clearer. The scope is now mounted more centrally, so the full weight of the scope is over the centre and not to one side anymore. Though the weights are, but not the weights and scope which it looks a little like in the uploaded pictures. You may want to think about changing the saddle plate clamps around and have the adm clamp on to where you connect your scope, it seems a little wasted having it as a joint.

I would say the scope needs to be balanced in the saddle clamp for sure, and for me the weight should be offset on the other axis too. That's in the belief this would put less stress on one side or the other. Also, somewhere to keep the weights 😀

Thanks I looked at the apm site - the objectives themselves are quite pricey. I did think of Moonraker and may contact him if the clean-up does not pan out. I have no problem removing & re-installing the objective, just need to make sure the next cleaning sessio is done properly. I'll think about that option as a last resort Yes the Lyra 'as new' is a nice scope. I under estimated the availability and cost of an upgraded objective so some TLC should provide a working scope. Thanks everyone of the suggestions. Steve

I'll call them after the bank holiday. Thanks Steve

A bit pricy for just the objective and extra considering import taxes/duties. Also, the Lyra is an F10 so the tube length is over 1000mm Yes, the objective would be to get a bargain upgrade 🤭

Thanks @Shimrod & @knobby, So the Skywatcher one uses a bolt for preventing the dovetail slipping, which also lines up with the dimple. The William Optic one does not come with a dovetail and have not seen the Skywatcher ones for sale on their own. Steve

That's the challenge to find such a resource,

I went a little overboard 🤭 with the Baader wonder cleaning fluid (old bottle as well) and this left a residue which picked up some grease and seeped in between the lenses. I cleaned it up and it worked but was a little pinched so I had star spikes (I will not tighen as much next time). Will clean thoroughly with some new wonder fluid, comes apart quite easily once you know how. Before I complete the clean-up thought of the upgrade option.

Are there suppliers of replacement objective glass (UK based) who can either supply the 2 aligned lenses to replace the ones in the Lyra objective holder, or supply them fitted to the holder? My Lyra is underused and has a moonlite focuser on, and in great condition, so an objective upgrade could be a reasonable/cheaper alternative to buying a whole new ED scope. Thanks Steve