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D-Bot 3D Printer


tekkydave

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That is using PLA with an unheated bed.  I guess I could do that but I really want to print ASA for use outdoors in lots of UV and need UV resistant filament.  PLA would last a while but I don't know how long and PLA is cheap.

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A very interesting concept but I think I shall just go with what is already half built :D  I've decided to go with moving the extruder in the Z direction and moving the whole XY plane up and down.  The Y rails can be attached to the corner uprights with wheels.  The XY motors are already designed to go on the Y rails but now the pulleys will also be attached to the Y rails.  The only problem I see with this new arrangement is attaching the acrylic panels that form the fume cupboard that were originally going to be attached to the outside of the frame.

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Projects have been suspended today in favour of taking down Xmas decorations. I could do without it all to be honest.

I think I've got all the printed parts for the 3 leadscrew upgrade

5a4cf946dcfee_2018-01-0315_07_26.thumb.jpg.1ecb74c0bca0259d0f699e6cc3a18274.jpg

I've also bought all the necessary pulleys, belt, idlers, lock rings, bolts etc. I might get started on it again before the weekend (maybe).

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Ah, I have the benefit of living on my own and being able to do as I like (well mostly - can't shop when they're closed etc.).  Spent the time 3D printing and building electronics :D  Apart from a couple of visits to the neighbours but I enjoyed that.

Edited by Gina
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12 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

There is now a development for a large (room sized) printer, using standard Ramps\Arduino etc. have a looka @ https://toms3d.org/2017/12/11/building-a-hangprinter/

Another interesting thing I noticed in the videos is that he's using the same little V pulleys that I'm using in my Titan printer in addition to the same cord.  I might change my Giant pulleys to those to make things easier than the bigger ones I'm using.  I reckon if they're good enough for the hang printer, they're good enough for my Giant one :D

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Yes, what Dave said. If you are planning to use the Duet on an existing printer you can plug the Ramps connectors into most of the Duet headers. I had to rearrange the motor and endstop pins on mine. Once I was happy it all worked I re-terminated all the cables using the supplied connectors.

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Ah yes, I understand now, thank you :)  The older type connectors for RAMPS will fit the Duet but the connections may be in the wrong order.  I think I shall be using the Duet on the new Mini printer leaving my Titan working.  I could try it on my Pilot printer which works but has gone out of calibration.

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Apart from astronomy, it's clocks, weather stations and 3D printers that fascinate me most.  Anyway, it's 3D printers in particular ATM.  Been thinking about that "hang printer".  I think my workshop, when it's cleared out and "re-furnished" could be used for one of these :D  Apart from the rather complex geometry, I can't see many problems.  But I wouldn't want to be limited to PLA and would therefore want a heated print bed.  It's difficult to see any way of producing a very large heated bed without spending a small fortune though a 600mm square one would not be out of the question.

The 400mm square silicone heater pad I'm using in my Giant printer cost £87.50 - 300mm square are a lot cheaper
eg.
300x300mm Square Silicone Rubber Heater Pad w/ thermistor 220V 300W  Four of those would be affordable at £136.

6mm Aluminium 5083 Sheet Plate blanks profiles ANY SIZE CUSTOM CUT Free shipping  600mm square costs £113

10mm Aluminium 5083 Sheet Plate blanks profiles ANY SIZE CUSTOM CUT   600mm square costs £175 inc. carriage.

 

My 3D printers would be roughly doubling printing area with each model :D  :-

  1. Mini  200mm square = 40,000 sq mm  (Reference)
  2. Titan 300mm square = 90,000 sq mm  (80,000)
  3. Giant 400mm square = 160,000 sq mm  (160,000)
  4. Hang 600mm square = 360,000 sq mm  (320,000)
Edited by Gina
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Finally managed to get the 3 leadscrew upgrade installed & working.

The old z motors are still installed on the centre bar - these will be removed at some stage. The new, single z motor is at the front now and drives the 3 screws via a belt. The motor pulley is 20t and the screw pulleys 60t giving a 3:1 reduction. Even so I still cant get it to run as fast as before. I had it going at 225mm/min but now it stalls above 150mm/min. I think the belt path needs to be improved to get it wrapped more around each pulley. Despite that it is still fast enough to trigger the piezo probe for the z endstop and ABL so its ok for now.

5a58e47b417c3_2018-01-1216_28_12.thumb.jpg.6e1b03d1c7adf26c8e85d2d807820563.jpg

The bed now goes up/down without tilting or twisting as witnessed by the mesh levelling output:

Screenshot_from_2018-01-12_12-00-32.thumb.jpg.993e011ac7a54a9664be77d406e68531.jpg

 

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That's much better :)  I'm quite looking forward to trying my Duet Wi-Fi board.  My Mini printer is not far off finished now and once that's working with Mega/RAMPS/LCD control panel I can try the Duet on it.  Which printers end up with Duet boards remains to be seen :D

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6 hours ago, Gina said:

That's much better :)  I'm quite looking forward to trying my Duet Wi-Fi board.  My Mini printer is not far off finished now and once that's working with Mega/RAMPS/LCD control panel I can try the Duet on it.  Which printers end up with Duet boards remains to be seen :D

once you've tried it... all of them

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I have rolls of that left over from a laminate flooring project. Not sure I would want to stick it to my nice 3mm borosilicate glass. I've had no issues printing on glass ever. Lots of people on FB seem to use tape, glue, hairspray etc etc. Just need to keep it clean and let it cool before trying to prise it off.

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