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DIY Moon Phase Dial


Gina

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I have now designed and printed the LED carrier and diffuser to fit inside the white moon hemisphere.  I have also wired the LED to my bench PSU and tested it all.  It works quite well but it needs a screen/shield behind the LED to keep light off the background even though I'll be getting some flock paper to put behind the moon phase "dial".  Swapped the printer filament for black and now printing a screen.

This is the screen in the UP printer software.

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And here are some photos of the LED carrier and diffuser with LED fitted and it, in turn, fitted in the moon globe.  Then with the LED powered and the moon shield in varius positions.  The unit is just sitting on the table propped up but the backlight from the LED can be clearly seen.  I'll take some more pphotos when I've got the screen finished and fitted.

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Screen printed, notch for the shaft filed into the edge and glued onto white moon hemisphere.  This has virtually eliminated the backlighting - just a little bit from the side that isn't covered by the shield.  I think I can call that a result :)

Three photos, first shows the screen fitted to the back of the moon hemisphere then two with the moon lit and pointing forward with the shield covering most of the moon giving a thin crescent.  I saved filament by not using a full hemisphere but a lesser section of sphere designed to fit the edge of the moon hemisphere and deep enough to clear the LED holder.

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Wow, I'd be proud of that Gina, that's really clean and crisp.  I love the way in the photograph you can just about make out the full disc of the unlit side of the moon (black sphere) it mimics the earth shine effect.  Is that how you see it in real life?  

Jim

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Thank you Jim :)  Almost right but the unlit side of the moon is just a little too large compared with the moon itself due to the shield being bigger.  I might reprint the shield just a little bit smaller - there's a bit more clearance than really needed.  But I'll probably do that after I've finished the clock with case etc.

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I have now fitted the new moon globe to the clock and connected the LED.  Still running it in ATM and will check that the moon drive mechanism is still working correctly.

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Thanks Stu and Alan :)  Yes, I agree the red LED lighting does look good and I think I'll add some red LEDs to light the dial and mechanism for the final version.

The moon drive mechanism is indeed still working fine :)

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Still testing...  The moon dial stopped turning so I took the ratchet gear off and checked both gears for those tiny blobs of plastic that plague 3D prints.  I found a few and removed them.  I also fitted the gears together again but without the paul engaged and tried them by hand - there were a few tight spots which I eased with a small file.  Seems to be alright now but I'm continuing the test for a bit longer while I sort out the rest of the job - case etc.

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The moon dial drive failed again so I've carefully checked it over again.  I think I've found the problem - a small pip of filament on the paul and another on one of the ratchet teeth could catch up and pull the ratchet wheel backwards as the paul retracted.  Working the mechanism caused this to happen.  I have now taken a small file to all the ratchet wheel teeth and the paul and it seems to be working.  I can only be absolutely sure if I run the clock for the equivalent of 21 days - the rotation time of the ratchet wheel.  At 5x speed this will take just over 4 days. This doesn't stop me from finishing the clock though.

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Thank you Gareth :)

I have had the clock case assembled around the clock to get an idea of what it will look like - except that it won't contain the transformer plug or show the electronics.  To me it gives the appearance of being a very deep case compared with the dial size but that may be just because I'm used to seeing the clock in skeleton form. 

Here's a photo of clock and case roughly set up on the table less the top piece which will need a slot to clear the moon dial shaft.

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If I may make a suggestion Gina? Could you not try to get some mirrors knocked up or even get a glass cutter and have a go yourself?? My guess fish tank sealent would stick to glass together in the desired shape. My thinking is this way you can get other perspectives on the inner workings so to speak. A hole could be drilled through the glass in a similar way to drilling ceramic tiles so that the cabelling can be routed straight out the back so not to distract from the mechanism. Just a thought.

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