DIY Moon Phase Dial

[Gina]

Here are some photos of the clock with case.  Not finished - I have to put the electronics in a little box and feed the power cable through the back of the case.  One thing is clear - it definitely needs internal illumination to light the dial and probably a light coloured paint on the inside of the case as it has become difficult to see properly without direct lighing.  This can be seen in the third photo taken with just room lighting from my seat on the settee.

[Gina]

As a direct comparison here is a photo with the same lighting and viewpoint without the case.  I think the case will be alright if I have lighting inside and a light background.  The moon dial part will have a black velour background.  I'm also thinking an arched case top to include the moon dial might be an improvement.

[happy-kat]

I also like the unstructured look without the case, though I think it would need a top peice to limit dust falling inside.

Could it be a frame with out a back peice at all.

[Gina]

It could be just a frame - yes, but the same effect would be obtained with a light background.  OTOH the frame keeps light from shining inside but this could be overcome with internal lighting.  Alternatively the case could be made of clear acrylic sheet.  The moon dial could do with shielding from light though.

This is the sort of thing I have in mind.  Either white lighting and primrose paint or paper (like the wallpaper) inside or red lighting.

[tekkydave]

I like the idea of the moon being part of the case. How about the colour of the internal lighting changing with the time of day? Blue/white during daylight and orange/yellow/red at night. Maybe an enhancement for the future. Looking good though

[Gina]

Thanks Dave   I like the idea of the lighting colour changing with time of day   I'll order some different colour LEDs.  I have some bluish white ones ATM and red ones on order.  I will do some experimenting with the lighting.

[tekkydave]

How about RGB LED strip? I don't know how easy they are to control from an arduino though. It might be a step too far but worth considering.

EDIT: Found this:

http://www.jerome-bernard.com/blog/2013/01/12/rgb-led-strip-controlled-by-an-arduino/

[Gina]

Thanks Dave   Yes, been looking at RGB LED strips but as you say might be overkill.  OTOH by the time you have several LEDs with series resistors to run directly off the Arduino with all their mountings and connections, LED strip may be simpler.  I already have the 12v supply.  MOSFET drivers are an idea but I already have 3 spare drivers on the ULN2003A which I could use.  ULN2003As are 7x transistor drivers as you no doubt know.  I'm using four for the stepper motor and the other three for RGB would make good sense.  My PSU is a 12v 1.5A plug/transformer type so no shortage of power   One advantage of LED strips is that the LEDs have a wide illumination angle whereas individual LEDs are usually quite narrow.  I had to doctor the one I used for the moon and use a 3D printed diffuser as well.

[tekkydave]

Even easier then. I was thinking of doing something similar on my printer. Just for show really. The colours would change according to the current state i.e. Power off --> Power On --> Heating --> Printing --> Finished/Cooling. I keep having all these ideas but no time to execute them. Oh well, I finish full-time work on 8th Jan so I should get more time .

[Gina]

That sounds good   I look forward to seeing more of your project posts then

Been looking at RGB strips on ebay and can only find 5m long ones but I guess I could cut it into two pieces and use the remainder for another project - maybe 3D printer as you suggest.  I also have another clock project on the books - my long case clock.

Looked at another clock case design with narrower top but I think on the whole I prefer the full width top.

[Gina]

The full with top section to contain the moon dial will fit on my Titan 3D printer but even with a 1.2mm nozzle is estimated to take the best part of six hours   I'll have a look at the Slic3r parameters to see if I can get this down.  The plan is to print it in black ABS.

[Gina]

Got it down to a smidgen over 4 hours

[Gina]

If any of my 3D printers need a more powerful bed heater it's the Titan - takes about 20m to heat up   It's only 300W for a 900 sqcm bed area, that's just 0.33W/sqcm - it could do with three times the power!

[Gina]

Now printing a full width top part on the Titan.  It printed the back (bottom of print) quite quickly but the bottom and arch (vertical walls on the print) very slowly so I must have missed a speed setting.  One thing - it seems to be printing the walls well, at least so far.  I can wait - better that than a print failing half way up which is still possible, of course).

A weeny bit later...  Spoke too soon - extrusion stopped   Now cooling down so that I can remove print from bed.  Meanwhile I'll redo Slic3r steeings, also redo model to miss the base as that is alright - I can print just the walls and glue it to the part already printed.

[Gina]

Changed some Slic3r settings and got 2hr 35m printing time.  Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the filament to stick to the bed now   I have Anti Warping Spray for perfect 3D prints on order.

Ordered a 5m string of RGB LEDs - remains to be seen if it arrives this year or next year

[Gina]

Given the glass a thorough cleaning and trying again.

[Gina]

No joy - giving up for now

[ChrisLX200]

Changed some Slic3r settings and got 2hr 35m printing time.  Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the filament to stick to the bed now   I have Anti Warping Spray for perfect 3D prints on order.

Ordered a 5m string of RGB LEDs - remains to be seen if it arrives this year or next year

That stuff sticks like... well, like a very sticky thing ;-)  My first print I couldn't get off at all but then I left it on one side in disgust and it was free when I came back to it - stone cold, maybe that's the trick.

ChrisH

[Gina]

Good   I used to find ABS stuck well to glass but now it doesn't seem to want to 

The spray might come tomorrow or it might be next year    I hate this time of year with so many firms closed down and the post up the creek.  I can't even counteract the awfully depressing weather with online retail therapy

I don't think there's much more I can do to the clock until I get some bits through the post.  I've stuck a hanging hook on the back and hung it roughly where it will go.

[Gina]

The red LEDs came today but I think I'll wait for the RGB string which didn't, so that and the printer bed spray will be next year's deliveries.

[tekkydave]

That stuff sticks like... well, like a very sticky thing ;-)  My first print I couldn't get off at all but then I left it on one side in disgust and it was free when I came back to it - stone cold, maybe that's the trick.

ChrisH

That spray sounds like what I need. I have some nice white PLA that always sticks without problem. I also have some green PLA that always curls up at corners. It seems a bit waxy compared to the other filament I have bought. Must be a cheap batch or something.

[Gina]

I've found that filament varies a lot from one make to another and from one colour to another even of the same make.  I could try printing my clock top in a different colour and then flock the inside but I think the black filament may be sufficient.  I think I should have some flock paper but goodness knows where   A New Year Resolution is to be more tidy and organised but don't hold your breath   Seriously though, I really must - I lose so much time looking for things!!!

[Pan Euro]

I lose so much time looking for things!!!

Your not alone Gina.

[Gina]

I'm thinking of having a day/date display below the clock like this :-

[Pan Euro]

Great idea, then you have the complete set.