Storm Damage

[r3i]

If you put a twist - just half a turn or a full turn if need be - in each strap they wont vibrate and hum in the wind - much quieter and makes the straps last a lot longer!!!

Thanks for the tip

[Gina]

Nice weather today   Beginning to cloud up now ready for the rain that's forecast for later   Rain, rain and yet more rain!!!   Less wind though.  In fact there's just a gentle southerly breeze and good drying conditions   Which is just as well as there's still plenty of wet in my scope room! 

Now to the nitty-gritty.  First the good news.  The MN190 which was in the scope room and got drenched - no damage at all.  There was misting up of the primary mirror that has now dried off and some speckling on the outside of the meniscus lens but that cleaned off easily with a lens cleaning cloth

Now to the EQ8...  took several covers off and there's plenty of water everywhere    When I turned the axes, water ran out of the encoder casings   Anyway, I have the obsy roof open (no damage to the runners or wheels) and with plenty of sunshine and a nice breeze, everything is drying out   One good thing - there's no sign of any water or damage on the circuit board

I'm keeping a close eye on the weather ready to close the roof but hoping to keep it open as long as possible to help the drying out.  Fresh air is a better drying method than any dehumidifier

[Starlight 1]

A small DIY job using a car alternator with the battery supplies you where considering would make a nice little wind turbine project.

Alan

I was told car altrenators do not work , So if anyone try it start a new post as it will be to see what someone may come up with.

les

[Gina]

Observatory roof closed (and clamped down) and dehumidifier on full.  It's definitely sucking plenty of moisture out of the air as there's a continuous dribble of water running down the outlet pipe (transparent plastic).  Things are drying out nicely.  I lifted the floor tiles and found the floorboards wet in places.  Now also drying out.

[Gina]

I think I might double up on my roof fasteners.   Pins in holes/eyes and bolt are OK for normal weather but I'm thinking of the "batten down the hatches" type weather forecasts.  I'm thinking of some latches but can't think what they're called to search for them.  Could someone point me in the right direction, please?

Later...  This is the sort of thing but I want bigger, heavier duty ones.

Later still   Found and ordered this one but there was only one left.

[Davey-T]

Some here

Dave

http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalogue/Toggle-Clamps/Stainless-Steel-Toggle-Clamps/Stainless-Steel-Latch-Hook-Toggle-Clamps

[Zakalwe]

Later still   Found and ordered this one but there was only one left.

They're OK, but not that great. I have one to secure the door when I am in the obsy. I personally wouldn't trust them on a roof, unless there was a heck of a lot of them!

I use 10mm turnbuckles, one in each corner. These allow you to really tighten the roof down. I have arranged them so that the set on the back of the obsy are pulling against the ones on the front. This also helps to tighten everything against itself, if you know what I mean.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnbuckle-Wire-Barrel-Strainer-Hook-Eye-5mm-6mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-/390956744779?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item5b06d6804b

[Gina]

Some here

Dave

http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalogue/Toggle-Clamps/Stainless-Steel-Toggle-Clamps/Stainless-Steel-Latch-Hook-Toggle-Clamps

Thank you Dave   Maybe a bit expensive although I know it's a small price to pay compared with the value of equipment protected.

These seem similar but a bit cheaper.

[Davey-T]

Nice in stainless steel though 

Dave

[Gina]

They're OK, but not that great. I have one to secure the door when I am in the obsy. I personally wouldn't trust them on a roof, unless there was a heck of a lot of them!

I use 10mm turnbuckles, one in each corner. These allow you to really tighten the roof down. I have arranged them so that the set on the back of the obsy are pulling against the ones on the front. This also helps to tighten everything against itself, if you know what I mean.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnbuckle-Wire-Barrel-Strainer-Hook-Eye-5mm-6mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-/390956744779?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item5b06d6804b

Thank you   They are certainly strong but rather fiddly to do up and undo IMO.   I think I would prefer the quick action toggle latches but they need to be big and strong enough, of course.  There's plenty of little ones around.

[Gina]

Nice in stainless steel though 

Dave

Yes, that's true   Actually, I think some of those others I've mentioned look a bit small.  Might as well buy something that I am sure will do the job - not something to skimp on.  Having had my roof come loose a couple of times now I'm thinking I should take the matter more seriously!  To spend a hundred quid on fastenings to protect thousands is not really excessive.  Just a matter of getting your head round it.

I rather like the look of   these 318Kg rated load latches .  These are only a couple of pounds more than their smallest ones yet nearly twice the load rating.

I'm thinking that I'm more likely to use these than turnbuckles.  It only takes a few seconds to go round the roof latching all four of them.  I have a feeling I'm more likely to do this each time I shut down which would be a better practice that just battening down when storms are forecast.  Knowing what I'm like I fear a storm could arrive and I haven't screwed down the roof 

[Oddsocks]

Hi Gina,

I'm not a great fan of the fixed length latch clamp that you have linked to, for timber frames it is very difficult to place the two parts at exactly the right distance in softwood, after a while the timber bows or the wood gives a little and then the latches can "pop" off very easily and you have to move the whole latch to a new position on the frame just to get tension right again.

Try looking at the adjustable 650Kg (or smaller) toggle latch instead as they are easier to fit and can be adjusted as much as needed to accommodate movement of the timber frame over time.

For these latches, depending which size you choose, the latch hook may not be included so you have to order those separately.

http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalogue/Toggle-Clamps/Toggle-Latches-Fasteners/Adjustable-Toggle-Latches-GH-51/Toggle-Latch-WAjustable-Clip-Form-A-Steel-HF-650Kg-Short-GH-511611451

William

[Gina]

Hi Gina,

I'm not a great fan of the fixed length latch clamp that you have linked to, for timber frames it is very difficult to place the two parts at exactly the right distance in softwood, after a while the timber bows or the wood gives a little and then the latches can "pop" off very easily and you have to move the whole latch to a new position on the frame just to get tension right again.

Try looking at the adjustable 650Kg (or smaller) toggle latch instead as they are easier to fit and can be adjusted as much as needed to accommodate movement of the timber frame over time.

For these latches, depending which size you choose, the latch hook may not be included so you have to order those separately.

http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalogue/Toggle-Clamps/Toggle-Latches-Fasteners/Adjustable-Toggle-Latches-GH-51/Toggle-Latch-WAjustable-Clip-Form-A-Steel-HF-650Kg-Short-GH-511611451

William

Thank you William

I agree the latches have to be adjustable and you need the latch hook.  The GH-431-SS I thought of buying seems to fit the bill

OTOH the one in your link is much cheaper and easier to adjust than the GH-431-SS (which needs a spanner to adjust the nuts) AND it is rated at twice the load

[laser_jock99]

My anti 'weather' measures are:

1) 10mm dia wire hawser in each corner, clipped to the roof with carabiners, then tensioned.

2) Rope to cleats in the middle of each wall.

3) Centre post to hold the roof up- in case of heavy snowfall.

Until I actually tensioned the wire hawsers it wasn't unusual to see the roof had shifted a little. Keep it tight down otherwise - give it an inch it will take mile as they say. A small shift quickly develops into a lift-off.

[saac]

Gina, re Goodhand.  I had a less than happy experience with them when I ordered similar latches for my roof.  Their carrier method, UPS, was disappointing.  Items were advertised as next day delivery but took considerably longer to arrive.  UPS tracking system, while showing out on delivery, was unable to provide accurate delivery updates.  When I sought an update form Goodhand I was disappointed by their level of interest.  Similar latches are available elsewhere, Amazon, significantly cheaper and with reliable delivery.  I need 2 more latches, bigger than I got first time around, I won't use Goodhand again.

Jim

[Gina]

Thank you for the warning Jim

[saac]

Does anybody have any experience of using say a traditional hasp and padlock arrangement for locking down the roof.? I've been wondering about using this as an alternative to the toggle latches?  Gina, while it probably won't bring you any comfort, I think your incident has at least given a few of us a much needed wake up call on roof security.  

Jim

[Gina]

Does anybody have any experience of using say a traditional hasp and padlock arrangement for locking down the roof.? I've been wondering about using this as an alternative to the toggle latches?  Gina, while it probably won't bring you any comfort, I think your incident has at least given a few of us a much needed wake up call on roof security.  

Jim

Thank you Jim

I used to have hasp and staple fittings but I found them somewhat unsuitable.  I don't want to lock the roof down with a padlock as in stopping theft, I wan't to fasten the roof down purely to stop it blowing off or shifting in a storm.  To lock the hasp & staple meant putting something in to pretend to be a padlock.  Also these have no adjustment and allowed roof movement (if only small)

I want an adjustable fastener that is quick to engage and disengage - anything slow or fiddly and there's a good chance I won't use it   The toggle latch seems the answer but it needs to be strong enough.  It needs to be adjustable to allow for tolerances in fitting the bits and to allow for movement in the wooden structure as time goes on - also good to be able to adjust the tension so as to hold the roof securely but not break anything or pull screws out etc.  In any case, it needs tension to make the over-centre arrangement work and hold the latch closed.

This is the biggest toggle latch I can find on Amazon and I don't think it looks up to the job.

[sharkmelley]

Sorry to hear that Gina.  I'm glad it wasn't completely blown off like last time.

Does anybody have any experience of using say a traditional hasp and padlock arrangement for locking down the roof.?   

Jim

Yes - my 650kg roof was blown off the night leading into Xmas Eve 2013.  I now have a heavy duty hasp, staple and padlock in each corner:  http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/locks_latches_and_security/padlocks_chains_and_security_devices/4110/secure_pattern_hasp_and_staple_galvanised/666134

With toggle latches I always have the nagging doubt that a night of severe shaking might work them loose.

Plus the 5 ton webbing straps if things get really bad:

Mark

[saac]

Here's the toggle latches I bought.  Model GH 40323 SS with 163kg holding force - I was intending on using at least 4.  I liked the idea of the simple operation of a toggle latch - much like the latches you get on a soft top car roof.  In retrospect the ones I got just look physically to small, they measure around 110 mm in length.  If I could find larger ones at a reasonable cost I think I would be happy to use them.  I share your concern Mark about them shaking lose but I'm sure I could make some sort of hasp to make sure they can't bounce lose.  The trouble with me is that I prevaricate too much looking for the perfect solution rather than just getting on with it!  I may end up making my own toggle latch as a temporary solution  - thinking something with threaded rod for adjustment and flat bar.

Jim

[Gina]

They look very much like these.  Same holding capacity but cheaper.  They look the same size too.  But yes, I've been looking for bigger ones though I guess 163Kg rating should be OK with 4 of them.

I've got one of these on order - unfortunately there was only one left.

[Gina]

Large Heavy Duty Over Centre Catch Toggle Clamp Latch Trailer Door Lock

[Gina]

Double post

[sharkmelley]

Is 163kg rating sufficient?  Negative pressure (lift) of 20pounds/square foot (i.e. 100kg/square meter) is easily generated by a strong gust.

Try out this calculator:  http://engexp.com/calculators/asce_comparison.cfm

Quick instructions:

Click on either the shed or house to give Risk category I or II then hit "Custom" where you can input roof type, slope and wind speed.  (To vary slope and wind speed click on the box and drag mouse up and down - you can't type a number)

The negative pressure (i.e. lift) is given on the second dial in pounds/square foot - calculated according to 2 sets of American building regulations 7-05 and 7-10

Changing zone allows the lift to be calculated at different parts of the roof (Zone 3 = Corner.  Zone 2 = Edge.  Zone 1 = The rest)

Hard data for hurricane-proofing your shed!

Mark

[mhard26339]

Gina, sorry for your troubles but as saac has said your misfortune has made us all reconsider possible weather related security problems; you are as always a fleet leader!! albeit by default on this occasion. Onwards and upwards, hope the EQ8 survives.

regards

Mike