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Oddsocks

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About Oddsocks

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  1. Do you have Photoshop Sara? It’s fairly simple to create .gifs in PS and I have made a few NEO and Lunar gifs over the years in PS 5 & 6. https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/how-to-create-animated-gif-quick-tip-ht Never tried in PixInsight and there doesn’t seem to be a tutorial on their resources pages but I’ll have a look later this morning when we get back home after swimming.... William.
  2. Unfortunately you can’t tell when buying power supplies from non-electrical specialists such as astronomy retailers etc. The Nevada unit is a mass market general purpose power supply used primarily to power devices in the home or workshop that would otherwise be used in a car or truck, such as a CB radio or portable short wave receiver, coolbox, air jack or tyre inflator etc. I’m always going to be biased after a working life in medical engineering where we have some of the toughest regulations regarding power supplies, particularly in operating theatre environments where as little a
  3. I remember that Alan. I think part of the composition was CC14, Carbon Tetrachloride, and the propellent was Freon, both banned substances now. If you used the spray for too long the can froze to your fingers. I don't think I would try to repair James's PSU myself, too many bad joints, bad practice and failure points. Not worth the risk, and expense of a mains leakage to the output side destroying everything downstream. At the very least there should be big varistors and/or crowbar diodes on the output but I see none in the pictures. William.
  4. I don't even think it was the apprentice Gina, probably one of the warehouse operatives filling in while the apprentice was on day-release.
  5. It's perplexing how often I see this recommended across the web and even written in published manuals. On the REME sponsored courses I did in Germany back in the late 70's early 80's we were told never to use any type of contact cleaner or solvent on skeleton carbon presets as it softens the carbon bonding agent on the track and within a very short while the preset would fail completely. The general recommendation was to replace a defective preset if possible but if desperate we were instructed to gently lift the wiper from the track and slide a piece of typewriter paper under the wiper,
  6. The banding was apparent in mine at an ambient of around +5c and a sensor temperature of -15c. If it is there you will see the banding most clearly in calibrated darks so make a master bias as you have done, you won't easily see the banding in the bias, and use that to calibrate a master dark of at least 50 frames. The banding will then show clearly, if it exists, with your camera. ( my master dark image in the forum post showing the banding was 100 frames @ 300 seconds )
  7. If that is correct Ade it might indicate that keeping the diagonal in the Lunt case as being a possible issue as many foam rubbers outgas Sulphur naturally as they age and Sulphur reacts readily with Silver.
  8. I had the same issue Dave, my filter became completely obscured in a matter of months. I did wonder if the problem was from something in the case outgassing, possibly vapour from the glues used in the case construction or foam lining, possibly even the paint on the OTA. Bresser sent me a replacement filter very quickly, arriving just two days after requesting it, and I now keep the diagonal in a sealed food container with desiccant bags, completely away from the Lunt case and scope. William.
  9. Don't worry Gav, PM sent to Jonk with link to Dropbox files. William Jon. Have sent you a Dropbox link via PM William.
  10. Depends on the design of the regulator James, some older design use series following power transistors and feedback resistors to effect regulation and these 'leak' a very small forward current continually, this will show as a high voltage, above the stated regulation voltage, when no load is applied, your multimeter will have too high an impedance to pull the leakage voltage down but connect a load and the voltage should drop down to the stated level. Try connecting a small, unimportant, device to the output to load the regulator while monitoring with the multimeter. Just a simple 1W resistor
  11. ******* Item sold, listing to be moved to completed section ******* William Optics GT81 Triplet APO. £520. Payment by direct bank transfer, cleared cheque or cash on collection from Christchurch, Dorset. Price includes DPD Local, next-day courier delivery, shipping to UK addresses only. Will reduce price by shipping cost if collecting in person. Thanks for looking... Anniversary edition with back-pack carry case and tube rings. fl = 478mm 81mm diameter fpl53 triplet objective. f/5.9 3.7kg 2"/1-1/4" adaptors Crayford
  12. As an additional point that has not yet been discussed...... I too have an HEQ5 PRO, used now just for daytime solar but originally was my mobile setup. The description of mount continuing to move / creep for a few seconds after the drive button is released is one that I experienced with my mount after the first few months of use and was just due to backlash in the worms, more in Dec than in Ra, but present in both, and was completely cured by carrying out the worm mesh adjustment as described in the manual at that time. I remember that this “creep” after the drive button is rel
  13. From your description of the problem it seems that the contact area and limited compression range of a standard Viton or Nitrile rubber ‘O’ ring is just too small to accommodate the flex range of your casing when it is bolted together. How about a wide flat gasket cut from closed cell expanded neoprene rubber, with a large compression range and increased contact area it should cope easily with distortion of the casing when bolted together. As long as it is not over exposed to UV it should have a good few years of life. Fairly easy to cut from a flat sheet with a sharp craft kni
  14. Because the edges of the dust artefacts are rather fuzzy then the tiny amount of focus change between filters can be ignored for the flats, as long as the focuser is in roughly the same place when taking the flats as it was for the images then the flats will be fine, the vignetted field too will hardly change, camera rotation is the thing that must be avoided. Problems sometime creep in if you have a mix of non-parfocal filters, i.e. some filters that are 3mm thick and some that are 0.6mm thick and combined with very fast ratio telescopes, then the change in focuser position may be quite
  15. Yes, you would normally have a set of flats for each filter as the dust that causes the donuts will be dispersed randomly across all the filters in your system. With a reflector telescope the principle wavelengths for colour should all be bought to the same focal plane so provided you are using par-focal filters then focus should be close when changing between them however if you have any glass in the instrument such as a flattener or reducer then there will be some shift of focal plane between the colour wavelengths and you will need to re-focus for each filter to achieve tight stars in
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