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Everything posted by mhard26339

  1. Thanks Steve, will keep you informed, although now resolved it also solves my old charging problem with the induction system, I can even view the battery state from Spain!! Regards Mike
  2. Thanks Steve, no, the settings in POTH are just the same as used on the Shelyak system and have not been changed but it will be something as simple as that when I find the issue. Although I have very little hair left doing this hobby I was reading the installation instructions (installation undertaken by Pulsar) and one warning struck a chord with me, they stressed a check that the motors are running in the correct direction so I got up in the middle of the night to check. Low and behold press the button that says rotate clockwise and it goes anti-clockwise and vici-verci; not sure but I think that may be it!!! I will check with Pulsar before I start changing wiring of hardware over Buttttttt!!. will keep everybody informed, it just has to be something as simple as this. Regards Mike
  3. After 4 years of operation my shutter Shelyak shutter opening unit packed up and Pulsar offered me a deal on their new automation system which I accepted. However, whereas the Shelyak system interfaced well with Maxim I cannot get the new system to correctly assimilate the position of the scope and shutter. With the new system set-up for the Home position (same as with Shelyak and align shutter with door and solar panels) is shown as 130 deg. To get the shutter to align with the scope it has to be set at 260 deg indicated ie 100 degrees out; consequently when I try to use Maxim, with the scope in the parked position (ie 0.000) when I slave the scope to dome from Home it only travels half way there, Maxim software says it is aligned with the scope. This is a screenshot of the set-up that I must have for the scope to be aligned with the scope in Maxim, you can see the scope in EQMOD shows 0 .000 but for the Pulsar software it is way off. I am sure that it is something very simple but is anybody else using this software with Maxim, any guidance would be welcome.
  4. From the way I operate remotely it would be great if somehow I could get notification by SMS of a clear night; if not available yet it will come but the HiTech may be another step along the way and worth considering. The problem with this site is the more you read up on things the more money you spend!!!, replace existing cloud sensor, flip-flat (yes I did see your build thread Steve), sky quality meter etc etc. Regards Mike
  5. Excellent job Steve, as the "other" Steve said, love the sound of the motors, it beats the clanking of the Pulsar chain driven system which is a bit noisy, at least on mine! Regards Mike
  6. Hi Dave, I had not had that but as I said I do think the software is a bit quirky but at £305 I consider it a good buy. Before I changed to the GT-81 I used a Starizona for my SCT at that now retails at £800+ the focuser but I must admit it is a very smooth bit of kit. Regards Mike
  7. Hi, To date the focuser has worked OK. Load in the driver but you must load the Utils program to do the calibration, after that it works OK with Maxim, Focusmax but it will not allow you to connect to the Utils program whilst connected to POTH in ASCOM, a bit quirky but when you know it is OK. When I had it operational for a couple of days on start-up it was not recognised by Maxim, Focusmax and would not connect for no apparent reason. I checked all of the plugs and sprayed with cleaner and when switched on again it was recognised but it had lost its calibration. After a straight-forward calibration all has been well since. I don't know what happened but I operate remotely so sitting in Spain I remain a bit nervous but all OK at the moment. For the money it seems a shoe in for the GT-81 and the service from Ian King was excellent. If anything untoward happens I will post but at the moment, silence is golden (from me not the Hmmm of the focuser motor).
  8. Great build thread Jaystar, I looked long and hard at a pod but went the Pulsar route and have never needed internal plumbing; the ingenuity of we band of astronomers knows no bounds I really enjoyed that. Well done. Regards Mike
  9. As you can see Steve perspex added to ensure that stray strands do not short out the charger. Also added a shot of my new set-up a Willam Optic GT-81 triplet + Lakeside focuser, laser pointer and Baader Skysurfer V. Still using the Trius 814 OSC, cannot afford to change to Mono and filters yet.
  10. That is what in my dome Adrian, run it on low for 8 hours thro the night (and 9 to 5 on Saturday, free electricity) with no problems with condensation; if it's cats and dogs will leave it on for a bit longer but not normally necessary. regards Mike
  11. It does me very well Gina, as you know I operate remotely often 1200 miles away and cannot just stick my head out of the door, it and my cloud sensor are invaluable, in fact essential before I open the shutter on the dome but I envy the speed of your camera, I need 1 to 2 minute exposures but they are always spot on. Having read this blog when I am next home instead of selling the ZWO, lens and housing I may put it together for a play, just need to sort out the heaters; there is a picture of the Ocullus on my build thread. Regards Mike
  12. The education one gets on this site :-) Thanks Steve Regards
  13. Hi Gina, Excellent as usual, great job. A while ago I was collecting bits for an ASC but an Ocullus came up S/H at a price I could not ignore so I bought it, However, for followers of this thread I did much research into domes and ended up buying one from http://www.sunlightplastics.co.uk/acrylic-domes/?gclid=CM-2i9TypMQCFayWtAodoi4AOA The product was very good and not expensive, for those without a 3D printer I started to assemble mine in one of these https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WK1010G.html cut away the top area, the dome (100mm from memory) fitted well; may be of use to someone on here. Regards Mike
  14. I must admit Frugal I was getting tempted to give this a go following some of the reviews and comments from a local buddy of mine but after the last 2 comments I think I will stick to my Maxim and focusmax etc which is working just fine. I operate remotely and have had enough frustration and do not want to start all over again. I will leave it for a while, monitor the blogs, possibly view a couple of sessions with my buddy and see what revisions come out! Regards and thanks to all Mike
  15. Where did that come from! OK got it!!
  16. Alan, I have turned it around and lo and behold the red dot moves!!!!. Thank you again; I feel a bit of a plonker, I want that emoticon that Steve (Steppenwolf) uses banging his head on a wall! Mike
  17. AHAH! perhaps therein lies the problem, I have my dial with the brightness numbers at the front?, in fact I have got the whole thing the wrong way round, I did read the instructions (honest) but thought they were poor, dumkoph!! Current set-up in photo, I will change it this morning and hope for a clear night. Thanks Alan Regards Mike PS. I love this site!! This other photo shows my other aiming aid a "military" laser, absolutely superb once set. OOPS don't know what happened there and cannot delete!
  18. I am really, and I mean REALLY pleased reading this thread in that it is not just me, I once came home from Spain in frustration just to fix my rig convinced that it needed my presence; one tick in a box and all was fixed (need your emoton of head banging here Steve) Obviously other work was done but I ask you!! Regards Mike
  19. I must admit, I have just changed my set-up from an SCT with a Telrad to an 81mm Refractor but the Telrad was too big so I bought a Baader Skysurfer V. As others have commented the build quality is superb, or at least it would be if I could adjust the b*****y thing. I spent most of last night playing with the adjusters, in the dome and in the workshop; whatever I did the red dot would not move to align, I really wish the Telrad would fit, despite its pre-historic looks it worked a treat. To get any sense of alignment I ended up pulling and pushing the bracket with bits of card and plastic underneath to get some semblence of alignment, NOT how I normally operate. For a finder costing this amount of money it may go back, very, very disappointing. Regards Mike
  20. Hi Peter, Great image, you must be delighted, I have had to do it the other way around, dome in UK but spending a lot of time in Spain. Unfortunately I live on an urbanisation near to Torrevieja and light pollution was a serious problem. If I could find some land with power and internet not too far away from me it would be ideal and I could relocate the dome. Must be satisfied with what we have got! Regards Mike
  21. Thanks Steve, on my way out to the Observatory now! Regards Mike
  22. Hi, Sorry but coming late to this thread but I had the same problems and wasted money on frustrating fixes. I operate a dome remotely so need reliability, (my build thread is New Observatory in Norfolk UK). The only way I could achieve this effectively was a computer in the dome with all of my devices (dome, cameras, weather station, all sky camera, scope, mount everything) connected via an industrial standard hub http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Industrial-USB-3-0/dp/B00V6ADRQC (sorry this comes up on the US site but they are in UK) I went through about 4 others at approx £30 mark but all let me down; they are OK in a warm house but not in a damp albeit de-humidified dome. The computer is then connected via Cat6 Ethernet cable to my router in the house, swithched via an APC 7920 and operated via TeamViewer. I would not say it has worked flawlessly but the connections have not been the problem. My experience and advice is to read as many blogs, list the problems other guys have had and how they solved them and incorporate their solution of your choice because as sure as eggs are eggs you will experience them at some time. By the way, don't check the back balance too often either! Regards Mike
  23. Hi All, The continuing saga of no charge from the solar panels in November!. The induction loop package duly arrived from the US and worked However, trials did not prove as successful as I hoped, to get maximum transfer the distance between coils had to 1mm and uniforn to each other, not a serious problem but the main failure was from the battery charger point of view in that the one I bought senses the condition of the battery (essential I thought due to remote operation) and regulates the charge, with the inductive loop it did not sense a battery load at all so no charge!! I then turned to a version of Steve's (Steppenwolf) version above and hopefully improved on it?? My initial idea was to use spring loaded carbon brushes from a washing machine, swiping copper plate, they would ride up into their housing and transfer the 12V seamlessly; upon the first rotation the brushes did not ride up, broke the brush and jammed the dome rotation . Next try was to use braided cable to swipe the plate and with a block of foam inside the loop to help hold the shape and give an element of more pressure (although not needed) it works a treat. The woodwork skill is not the best, it may be tidied up later (sorry Tinker1947 not to your standard) but it works and November/early December should not be a problem with dead batteries any more; I will continue to use the solar panels for the rest of the year but now I have the alternative fix, the charger on/off is controlled by the APC 7920
  24. I have been using Polemaster for approx 6 months now but was wondering if there has been an upgrade in the software? When it came out the mapping was valid I think up to June 2016, has there been a revision since? regards Mike
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