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Zakalwe

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About Zakalwe

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  1. Its not as simple as that. Both my ASI 1600 Cool (Panasonic MN34230ALJ sensor) and ASI 174 (Sony Exmor sensor) exhibit NRs. I think that its more to do with CMOS sensors. It can be hit and miss and very dependant on the individual setup as some people using very similar setups to me do not appear to get them. A tilt adapter sorts them though and does not appear to have any effect on focus. I wouldn't have a problem with recommending an adapter. Its certainly much easier than having to drift the image.
  2. Ahh, OK. So you have to do the alignment to get the mount tracking. I presume that you then do the polar alignment and then switch the mount off and back on to clear the bad initial star alignment?
  3. See Q7 in the FAQ section: http://www.qhyccd.com/ManualPoleMaster1.html 7.When using the PoleMaster, Should I stopt the mount RA tracing or not? No. It is best to keep tracing during using the PoleMaster.
  4. Hi Steve, I think that the tracking needs to be running during alignment. I can't see it making that much difference TBH unless you are taking ages to align the mount.
  5. That doesn't look like ice on the sensor at all to me. I've had it happen a few times and it never has a straight edge like that. Ice on the focal reducer or sensor window wouldn't be as sharply focused. It looks like an electrical/electronic problem. Possibly a dodgy USB lead/improperly seated lead.
  6. Why would you do a star alignment before polar alignment?? Does your mount not start tracking as soon as it's powered up? If not, just start it tracking, then polar align then do a star alignment.
  7. There's also seals in there that keep the etalon chamber pressurised when tuning the scope. WD40 can attack some types of rubber.
  8. Screw it back in and then out. Keep nudging it gently past the stuck point. It sounds like a damaged thread or a bit of grit stuck in a thread. If you go at it like a bull in a china shop then you will cause it to bind. Be careful with the WD40...it's nature is to creep and it outgasses a lot. if you get it on the glass that is right up to the back of the focuser then it could be a pig to clean off (isopropyl alcohol will be needed). I'd only start spraying it as a very, very last resort. If the scope is in warranty then I'd be speaking to the retailer.
  9. That doesn't look like ice on the sensor at all to me. I've had it happen a few times and it never has a straight edge like that. Ice on the focal reducer or sensor window wouldn't be as sharply focused. It looks like an electrical/electronic problem. Possibly a dodgy USB lead/improperly seated lead.
  10. I believe that Terry Hancock offers a one-to-one webinar-type training course. I haven't personally used him, but I know of people who have. http://www.downunderobservatory.com/tutorial.html
  11. Very, very unlikely. How thick is is the PTFE? Less than a millimetre, I'd wager. How much do you think that will compress and how much difference would it make? Thermal expansion/contraction in a steel pier would be more I would think. We tend to obsess in this game about stuff, but in a lot of cases I don't think that it stands any scrutiny. The classic is the whole concern about "rat's cages" which was started by a certain manufacturer selling snake-oil. How many people with Avalon mounts find this a problem?? Not much evidence of problems with the images produced by that setup.... http://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/astrophotographs.html
  12. The age old art of fettling. Keeping men busy in sheds since 1549
  13. Any engineering solution is a compromise between all sorts of mutually exclusive requirements. Cost vs profits. Efficiency vs effectiveness and so on. A three-point support would introduce other issues as you've pointed out. What we have is a relatively minor inconvenience that can be overcome with a bit of experience of how your individual mount reacts to tightening the bolts. Of course a solution could be engineered, but it would increase the costs. Is it really worth machining the mount base and having to purchase a matching pier top plate to correct what is really a minor issue? For me, the answer would be a resounding "no". Personally I liked the EQ8 solution- a central bolt with two outrigger bolts. Even that can rock a bit due to the pier top. I think Paramount use something similar?
  14. It looks like they are using a similar principal to the CEM25/CEM60