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Zakalwe

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Zakalwe last won the day on March 8 2015

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  1. Hi Torben, I have had a similar experience, so I understand your frustration. A couple of things....RA drift can be solved pretty easily. If you use PHD V2 then you can use the Guiding Assistant to accurately measure the drift amount. You can then calculate the change that you need to enter in the SciTech config tool. See this post on how to calculate the amount that you need to add or subtract in the Tick field to correct the drift: If you use the PHD Guiding Assistant then it will take the first couple of steps out as it will give you the drift amount that it is out by
  2. Dont forget that any filters that are in the light train may also increas or decrease the spacing The best thing to do is get it as close to the manufacturer's specifications and then then test it. It can happen that you need to move it a bit to get the best results (or maybe accept a certain amount of cropping). Wait until you try fitting an OAG and a filter wheel in there, and then wrestle with getting the guide camera in focus at the same time as the imaging camera. Stiff drinks may my required at this point!
  3. Slightly higher? A Mesu mount is almost exactly double the price. They rarely appear second hand, though there might be a few popping up in the next 6 months as the forthcoming recession takes effect. The Gemini is 30% more expensive and that excludes the controllers and shipping The JTW mount is €4100, VAT excluded, so add another 20% on top. And that's assuming that the thing is even shipping. That's a long way from "slightly higher"!
  4. Now we all know that you're not a self-respecting imager until you have a drawer-full of stupidly expensive adapters/tubes/doo-hickeys. The one that you need for the task at hand will naturally be cold-welded onto something else and no amount of swearing at, threatening, brute force, strap wrenches, heating or cooling will separate. Naturally, you will be forced to buy another over-priced bit of aluminium and delay the job until it arrives. To prevent this, try this stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BTOBHH6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  5. Youight be exceeding the total number of hubs allowable? Personally I think it's down to cable length. Active cables can be glitchy. Either shorten the cable to the laptop or investigate USB3 over Ethernet.
  6. OAG received in great order. Thanks for a quick easy transaction Greg!
  7. I use Orico hubs and they seem to work. Even so, I found that some cables would just not work over a longer length. I guess it might depend on the quality of the conductors and what not.
  8. Here's another one for the newer GSO focusers: http://polluxchung.com/gso_crayford_fix/
  9. Have you "tweaked" the current one? Astronomy Shed has guides on how to improve a standard focuser. They usually can be improved to a fair degree with some gentle tweaking.
  10. USB3 is very sensitive to cable quality and length. I have the same camera and it would work on a 4 metre USB 3 cable. I know use the shortest cable possible from the camera to a powered quality USB 3 hub. I have nothing else plugged into that hub. I wouldn't use an unpowered hub with this at all. Try changing the cables too, the quality really does vary.
  11. Download the latest version of DSS: http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html Go to Settings:RAW/FITS DDP Settings Go to the FITS section. Tick the tab as below. Then select the correct camera type or the correct Bayer matrix in the drop down. Your camera is supported (as listed on the LIBRaw page: https://www.libraw.org/supported-cameras ) There's a good tutorial here: https://astrobackyard.com/deep-sky-stacker-settings/
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