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Zakalwe

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Zakalwe last won the day on March 8 2015

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About Zakalwe

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  1. Hands up if you're sick of solar minimum! I can't wait until it gets back to something like this....something new virtually every day! Full disc Inverted disc colour 21st April
  2. Unless you can remove the secondary from the outside you might have to remove the corrector plate to get access to the secondary mirror. Take the other two screws out completely. Take the secondary mirror holder off the backing plate. This should expose enough of the remaining thread to wind it out by gripping it tightly with a (good!) visegrips or similar. Don't even think of using those easyouts....the best of them are generally rubbish and the chances of doing far more harm by trying to manually drill into a small screw are high. You'll feel like a right pillock if a drill slips and smashes the corrector.
  3. Don't underestimate this. I find the wait between tweaking the tuning a complete pain in the whatsits, especially whilst imaging. The Lunt is a heck of a lot easier to use.
  4. Thats a great idea for the altitude adjuster. The standard one is a complete pain in the whatsits!
  5. Double-stacking makes a massive difference. Maybe you should try DSing your Lunt50 first? The second bit is not quite right due to the difference in the way that both systems work. Also. there have been very many reports of quality variances in the Quarks. I personally have had two and the imaging results were very very different between each. Correct. A 35Nm Baader H-Alpha filter makes an excellent internal ERF.....much better than a UV/IR filter. Not really. Cheap achros can suffer from spherical aberration which can affect the views/images. This Lunt 60 was still for sale recently. it might be worth an enquiry? The Lunt 60 etalon is tighter than the L50. Double-stacking that gives another level of detail altogether.
  6. This requirement alone should make you think closely about a Quark....they take a good few minutes to warm up and come on-band (think 10 minutes). Any subsequent changes in the tuning will take a further 5 or so minutes for the temperature to stabilise. The Lunt system is totally different and, as you say, you can be up and running in minutes. Plus you can tune the etalon on the fly to look at different solar phenomena. The views from the Quark are also very different. As there is a Barlow built in you are much more "zoomed in" than on the Lunt. This means that you are much more at the mercy of the seeing, both local and atmospheric.
  7. Is there a particular reason for ordering from a different country?
  8. The etalon is probably de-contacted. Not impossible to fix, but far from easy and probably beyond the capabilities of most people.
  9. I was over in Gateshead during the week. These were taking on a bitterly cold Thursday morning (-7C!). Nothing fancier than a handheld mobile phone (Huawei P20 Pro). It's pretty amazing just how clever these mobiles actually are- proper computational photography with multiple image stacking at the touch of a button.
  10. Anyone got one of these going unwanted? Thanks in advance.
  11. I think that JTW are walking a fine line, if not making an outright mistake. It rarely goes well to publish vapour-ware and then to release a beta test to the public. I'm minded of Lunt's situation when they were developing the Lunt 50mm solarscope. They delayed the launch date and said that they were having problems but were not prepared to release a less-than-optimal product. Yes, there were grumblings, but at that point no-one had shelled out hard cash. When the product launched it was a good 'un and universally regarded as a good product. Any misgivings were quickly forgotten. Taking money off folk and then not delivering or releasing a sub-par product will inflict far more long-term brand damage (see Daystar and the Quark). JTW are making a bit of a mess of this...to be at this stage and be in the situation of having issues with the control platform is not good.
  12. It looks like an internal reflection coming from the bright star that's on the very right-hand edge of the image. Tracking down where the light is reflecting from could be tricky....it could be the inside of the OTA, the focuser draw-tube or any extension tubes. It could even be reflections between the camera sensor, cover glass or filters. images where you have a bright star in the frame can be tricky.
  13. A friction drive doesn't have any worms or gears.....it's one of the systems big advantages as it gives massive stiffness and no backlash. It relies on having very hard materials as the mating surfaces. http://www.dfmengineering.com/news_telescope_gearing.html#friction
  14. I'm not sure that i'd want grease anywhere near a friction drive! Also any dust or contaminates would rapidly turn into a grinding paste.
  15. There's a tick box in the camera options where the fan and cooling can be disabled. Make sure that this isn't ticked. It took me a while to work out why my ASI1600 wasn't cooling (and predictably AFTER I spent ages swapping leads, power supplies and what not. )
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