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Summer heat in obs


jaspalchadha

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I catered for ventilation on my build plus on my recent roof rebuild, (roll off) I insulated the underside of the roof with 25mm celotex insulation board and this seems to keep the temperature down a bit as roof panels get very hot and will radiate heat into the obs. The celotex layer reduces this heat quite a bit.

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But if you were to would air con be recommended

Not really.

Unless you have very good draughtproofing and exterior insulation all you'd be doing would be trying to air-con the world (or more realistically: the surroundings of your obs).

Air-con is expensive to run and will take up space.

Better solutions would be to reduce the solar gain (increased temperature due to sunshine), either by adding shade, improving the insulating & reflecting properties of your obs' roof or increasing the airflow/ventinaltion to remove the heat.

One thing you could try is to arrange a sunbreak or shade (or even a cheap gazebo, e.g. from Argos) to put the obsy in shadow during the hottest times of the day. This could be as simple as a fabric sheet tied to poles (or convenient trees/walls) with ropes. Just remember to make it strong enough to withstand wind. Or you could find you've made a kite.

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i have never bother with any sort of Air-Con, the roof has gaps round 3 sides the only thing that has happened is the wood use to clad the Obby has shrunk but it does had a breathable membrane behind it and the internal wall are obs board so there fine, the rubber roof would make frying eggs very easy on the outside...:)

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I don't know how optics can handle heat but I do know how electronics can handle heat (or cold).

As long as nothing is powered up electronic components can take Alot of heat before they start to break down. Remember that most electronic components are soldered, either in a huge oven where we will see temperatures above 220c (lead free) or with a soldering iron which can have even higher local temperatures.

So, just wait for things to cool down and make sure it's not damp the electronics should take any damage at all.

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It might seem hot to you but it's well within the operating specs of both optics and electronics. As stated above, high humidity is more damaging as this can condense out as the temperature drops at night. Good ventillation and/or a de-humidifier will solve that problem.

ChrisH

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I have a pier in my obsy never left my scope or mount over nite yet ,I should dlc as PA would only need a tweak and all that but I like the set up I only image planets so it's not that critical and there's plenty of good soft ware out there ,that said a fan of some sort mig help. Or just leave the door open if the house is occupied in the day

Pat

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I don't know how optics can handle heat but I do know how electronics can handle heat (or cold).

As long as nothing is powered up electronic components can take Alot of heat before they start to break down. Remember that most electronic components are soldered, either in a huge oven where we will see temperatures above 220c (lead free) or with a soldering iron which can have even higher local temperatures.

So, just wait for things to cool down and make sure it's not damp the electronics should take any damage at all.

The older electrolytic capacitors (if present) in particular are prone to failure if they are baked too much, the electrolyte dries out and then they fail, I'm sure the last time I looked a few of these types of capacitors were present on my Celestron / Skywatcher main boards, 40 degrees or so should be fine.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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The older electrolytic capacitors (if present) in particular are prone to failure if they are baked too much, the electrolyte dries out and then they fail, I'm sure the last time I looked a few of these types of capacitors were present on my Celestron / Skywatcher main boards, 40 degrees or so should be fine.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

They will fail either way (cheap ones) and needs to be replaced every so often anyway [emoji1]
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