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philj

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About philj

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    Brown Dwarf
  • Birthday 10/04/55

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    http://philjay2000.tripod.com/index.html

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    Derbyshire
  1. I will be at Kelling (not with mount) if anyone wants to know more about the mount.
  2. Celestron CGE Mount & Tripod plus standalone pier. The Original (and IMHO still the best, no plastic here) Celestron CGE Mount complete with many extras. The mount is in good condition being housed in my observatory with condensation control. The package consists of the following: · CGE Mount and Tripod (A few minor chips to crackle paintwork on the mount head commensurate with age and use. Tripod head has a few more paint chips but nothing a can of touch up paint wouldn't fix)). Gearing has been re lubricated with Teflon grease. · Reliability upgrades = Gary Bennet Cable Upgrade to mount. RA and Dec Limit switch upgrade. · ADM tool free hand screws on column and mount adjustment lock. · Celestron CGE Polar scope · Nextstar Hand controller (Upgradeable). Spare Hand controller (Basic, non upgradeable). PC and guide cables. Homebrew mount hub with USB adapters. · Copy of Nexremote plus Logitek wireless gamepad for wire free mount control · Standalone steel pier with twin height settings (1.25m or 1.05m) plus anti condensation heater built in for mount electrics column protection. Pier fitted with accessory tray. · Mount head transport box. Homemade, fitted with castors for easier transport. · Celestron 25lb counterweight plu homebrew 10kg weight. More pictures available please PM for details. C11 shown not included. Collect only (from South Derbyshire) due to weight and size. (Please note I cannot to deliver or meet part way). Price £875
  3. Astro selection box

    Clearing some space and these have to go. I thought about selling individually but thought I would put it all up for sale as a lot. Here is a Maplins case full of Astro bits listed as below:- · Burgess Optical BAK4 FBBMC Bino viewers. I good condition, just missing one white nylon eyepiece clamp screw. · 2 off Antares 25mm Plossl eyepieces, for use with the above binoviewers. These are actually quite nice eyepieces. Good condition. · BS Astro 1.25" Filter Wheel 5 position. Good condition, hardly used. Nosepiece has been skimmed of black anodising. · 1 off 25mm Fullerscopes Orthoscopic Eyepiece, circa 1980s, Very slight coating mark on periphery of front element, doesnt affect views that I can see. · 1 off Circle T 25mm Kelner eyepiece. Good condition. · 1 off Circle T 9mm Kellner eyepiece. Good condition. · 5 Antares 2" Planetary filters, #11,15,23A,56 & 80A all in good condition · 1 off 1.25" mystery filter. No idea what it is. · 1 off Meade 1.25" star diagonal, basic, in OK condition. Works OK. Case included So as you can see a bit of a selection of interesting stuff. Ideal for the visual observer with something for the imager thrown in as well. £160 inc p&p UK Mainland Possible deliver to Kelling in September but payment or deposit required to secure.
  4. Hi Tim, sorry to have missed your update, been away from the forum for awhile, funnily enough I was just down the road from you at Upton On Severn last week, popped into Phillip Serrils auctions in Malvern for a laugh but didn't see any scopes Well done for returning the scope. I know lots of dealers that have had these and other repro brass scientific instruments that think they are the real deal and have had to break the news to them on many occasions. Its all genuine, mistakes are made often in the antiques trade and you are always learning, that's the fun of it, the research is the fascinating sie of it. Glad we could be of help.
  5. Jupiter on a Startravel120

    Thats a good ST120 planetary image, well dne. I remember about 15 years ago doing the same with my ST120 on EQ3 mount, didnt quite get the same quality s this image though due to my poor techniques and cheapo web camera at the time.
  6. Clean the front, if stuff can be seen at the back unscrew the "complete" cell from the tube and clean the back. Don't strip the cell. If the muck is still there after the front and back surfaces are cleaned then get pro help. This assumes the cell can be unscrewed from the tube.
  7. Hi Carolyn Stripping the objective is a last resort and it is not adviseable, if it looks like it has to be done send it back to the dealer/manufacturer or a dealer who can repair it if it is out of warranty. As said above, clean the front, if the stuff then looks to be inside, unscrew the cell from the OTA and clean the rear of the objective that faces towards the focuser. Do not strip the cell down as that is a can of worms for an amateur.
  8. A good way of making it look the part is to get some leather and do the main tube and shield. It will lift it a bit. Tell me about it, I have seen loads of these and those awful Chinese harbour master scopes on rickety tripods being sold aas antiques and at antique prices. I get varied reactions when I try to educate people. Auction house catalogue descriptions, like ebay descriptions, need to be taken with a pinch of salt. My best BC scope of this type was a five draw 3" leather covered stalking scope, this was a stunner and optically superb. I fitted it to a period Watson mahogany and brass tripod and it is now in a bay window overlooking Poole Harbour
  9. Fungus loves coatings and glass. If fungus is left it will damage the coatings and if left unchecked will etch the glass, so cleaning as soon as possible is advisable. Minor damage to the coatings and even minor etching has some effect on the overall performance of the objective, it will degrade the image but probably not noticeable to the eye (depending on severity). But it will affect the resale value considerably as no one wants to buy a scope with etched glass. Blow the surface clear then use wonderfluid on the front of the objective. Then inspect again if there are still signs it may be on the inner element facing the inside of the OTA. In that case screw off the cell and clean the inside element face just as you did the outside. If it's still showing signs of fungus inside the objective set only then do you need to worry. Yes in my experience moisture can penetrate into the inner surface of the elements depending in the design of cell and objective. It will then need stripping and cleaning, you can try doing extended solar work as suggested which may kill the active fungus but it wont clean the dead bodies away
  10. Nice find. Just be aware that some of the refractors designed for 0.965" eyepieces when fitted with 1.25" adaptors cut off some of the light as the internal baffling in the draw tube/s isnt designed for the larger glass. Towa is a typical example, one has to knock the baffles out of the draw tube to get the full light from the objective through.
  11. Here are some shots of a recent restoration of mine of a 20x 2" spotter from about 1930-40. This gives an idea of the gauge of brass used by BC, the typical engraving on the draw tube, the smoothly rounded work on the tube ferrules/glands also the general lines of the scope. OK this one still has its original leather but I have restored some where the leather is missing, e.g. all brass. Oh and the 3rd shot shows typical BC baffles and blacking through the objective, the repros I have seen have none. The repro scopes on cursory inspection look similar but the fit and finish is very basic by comparison to BC workmanship, once you see a genuine one next to a repro the difference is obvious. I have been trying to educate the cataloguers at the local auction houses to me as they frequently catalogue the repros as antique
  12. Hmm, could be a nice find but something doesn't quite scan, I may be wrong, and please someone correct me if I am but that looks very much like a modern copy. I have owned and restored many B C spotting scopes and the design and workmanship on this scope is not one I have come across by BC. However I have had very similar ones and seen many at antique fairs and auctions with different signatures on them, from Dolland of London to Steward. Unfortunately the market is seeing a lot of similar scopes from China and even India. These are easily identified because they weigh a ton have poor optics and have little to no baffling or blacking internally. I hope I haven't burst your bubble physicus and I hope I am wrong but from the photos it does appear to be a repro
  13. Resorted to a bit of remote 101

    That's nice Matt, great minds think alike, I used the Tak150 on m101 yesterday, didn't give it as much time as yours though.
  14. M101

    Taken with the iTelescope Tak150 in New Mexico. 30 minutes. Some thing went wrong with the guiding on some subs so had very strange shape stars to sort out but Ive rescued something from the run.
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