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philj

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About philj

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    http://philjay2000.tripod.com/index.html

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    Derbyshire
  1. If you ever experienced a Celestron CGE mk1 going daft due to mount lead or microswitch problems then the dictionary definition is very apt
  2. I took 40 subs for each on this occassiin, I used to take about 100 but I wanted to check this technique with the live view. You can still stack with undriven, its fiddly but doable. Adjust the moon to be in the centre of the frame each shot. Not the best way, it can give aligning software a headache.
  3. Thats the way I have always checked refractors and the reason I love collimateable cells, these new fangled cnc,d jobbies are ok but push pull screws are tge best. I never collimate an ota with a diagonal in place, I do check after to see what effect the diagonal has tho. Most of the collimation issues I find are with the focusers unless there has been trauma or finger trouble in the cell. I wrote about my experiences some time ago here https://www.google.com/url?q=http://philjay2000.tripod.com/usefulstuff/adventures.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjw2-fF2ZzqAhW1Q0EAHTbIBqMQFjAAegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw2rzHdLJuEtui4RFpCFFgLD
  4. How loose is it? The glass needs to expand and contract so a bit of movement is needed. There is a danger of pinching the objective by overtightening so beware.
  5. Very nice John. I still use my Towa 339 80mm f15 regularly.
  6. The past few nights of the current lunation I have been using the 80mm F15 Towa to relearn lunar imaging. Being away from astro for so long Ive forgotten a lot of stuff so I decided to give this run of clear nights a go with lunar imaging and doing a bit of experimenting with technique and processing. I think I am almost there with this scope. Not sure why but I love the quality of image this achro gives. Yes my 127 APO gives superb almost colour free views but there is just something about a long achro, like vinyl and cd/mpeg, I prefer vinyl. I Using the Olympus OMD EM1 with its 4/3rds sensor the moon almost fills the sensor at this fl thus I get a good image scale. Ive been using the em1 for lunar for awhile with live view I zoom in 14 times to nail the focus. This time however I have been leaving the zoom on and watching for a still period atmospherically before pressing the shutter release. Only a small change but it cuts down on frame rejection in stacking. All subs done in Raw and mono to remove the bit of CA the F15 gives, if I use colour the sharpness suffers. Processing, I used to do it all in Registax, and I suffered with large numbers of large TIFFS, so ran them through pipp this time, then Registax. Then it was just a few tweaks in Photoshop - curves, contrast and a bit of sharpening. Ive quite enjoyed using the old F15 again. I even put an eyepiece in and sat drinking in the views Three nights worth, 29th, 30th May and 1st June Click and click and click for full res
  7. Always leave a bit of space. Overgreasing can cause problems. With high speed applications it is very important to avoid overgreasing but with the speeds we operate at its not so much of a problem but is not advisable.
  8. The supplied ep is OK but a quality eyepiece will transform any scope. There are so many to choose from everyone has there own personal preferences if you are looking for decent eps have a look through reviews on here and in the mags and best of all try before you buy if you can
  9. Yes the lock screw stops the tube shifting but the focuser wheels can still be turned, quite normal The second issue is more likely an eyepiece issue.
  10. Just a point on the focusers on these scopes They are good and work well plus they can handle quite a bit of load. However they seem to be shipped in varying degrees of adjustment from super smooth to dog rough. I have 2 of these scopes in binoscope format. One I got was adjusted really well the other was really bad and was advertised as a customer return due to the rough focuser, I got it with a discount due to that. It took me 2 minutes with an alken key and it was as smooth as the other one. So dont despair if your focuser feels rough it just needs a tweak. Quality control should really be better but a rough focuser is not a major problem.
  11. Agreed, I was the same with my 50mm refractor in the early sixties, this showed me so much at the time and I was hooked despite terrible CA and bad coma. Advertising is always hype, just take a look at some of the cure-all pilks and potions from yesteryear but now in the consumer age it is used with everything scopes included. I remember some years ago a newbie joined an astro soc I was in and he threw a lot of money into gear but had no experience except from books. One night he was asking for help after setting up his new goto scope, claiming he couldnt see anything it was suppossed to be pointing at. His scope was spot on in pointing, he had got that right, the rest of us experienced observers could see M57 quite clearly, if not a little faint, we couldnt figure out his problem, then we twigged it eventually, he was expecting to see dso,s as they were in long exposure images. He was sorely dissappointed, we could not beleive someone had shelled out so much on kit without ever looking through even a basic scope at DSO,s.
  12. I was messing with a few details on the late 60s early 70s Towa 80mm F15 last week having just made some tube ring adaptors for the Towa to fit in ED80 tube rings and I set it all up on my HEQ5 for a quick test. Then realised what a handsome scope it was and that got me reminiscing. I got the scope 10 years ish ago for £60 ish off fleabay, complete with wooden crate, wobbly but elegant mount. I did a bit of resto on it and the mount and got it working and soon realised that the objective on this scope (despite a couple of clamshell chips) was excellent, it was a good planetary, lunar and double star scope, but it was let down by the snorkel focuser and 0.96 eyepieces. I made an adaptor for 1.25" eyepieces but it still was underperforming. Another OTA came on the scene, (thanks Nightfisher) which I married to the mount and sold off. Thus I had the original OTA which I could update which I did with a 2" crayford focuser. So 10 years on here it is, crayford, tube extension, more internal baffles. Its a firm fave scope at the moment because a lot of my stuff is in storage due to impending house move but this scope is light, quick to set up and convenient to use. Many scopes have come and gone but this one is a keeper
  13. I,ve watched all of the shows and love it. This is why I like restoring vintage and antique technology, its very satisfying and that comes through in the show. I love giving back someones past or memories. Also I have picked up a few tips from them along the way. Ive also spotted a couple of gaffs, or shoukd I say "I wouldnt do it like that" . My fave resto that I have done was a 1914 Royal Typewriter, fantastic object and the design/craftsmanship in these machines is impressive. Telescopes, Ive restored a few, so that episode plus the one with the nautical refractor interested me more than most.
  14. Could not resist another play with the Towa. I rarely do full moons so this was a new one on me. Stack (R6) of 40 from 80 subs at 200 asa 1/500s ish I think. Through the 1970s 80mm F15 Towa achro with the Olympus OM D EM1 mk1.5 mirrorless. Messed about with in PS. This time Ive left it in colour and used Hasta La Vista Green to get rid of greenachro fringes on high albedo features
  15. Actually there was a bit of processing not for sharpness but to rescue the contrast due to the thin layer of mist. Curves, shadow and highlight and contrast needed tweaking. Sharpening didnt take much, just a small amount on fine wavelets in R6 then fine tuning with smart sharpen in PS. The main thing I do is make sure the scope is cooled then I take the subs making sure image stabilisation is off and shutter is on silent high rate.
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