I want a collimator but don't want to sell a kidney for it?

[emadmoussa]

I can see there are cheap collimator in the range of £20-25 there...are they reliable?

[Daniel-K]

A simple cross haired Cheshire will be fine £20 from flo ive had pretty much every type and always rely on the simple Cheshire never let me down

[SnakeyJ]

Imad - there are cheap next generation ones on fleabay - but u need to confirm the collimation.

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[RikM]

I use a cheapo Skywatcher cheshire. I did take it to work and spin it in a lathe to check the crosshairs were centred and they were spot on. I use a self-centring adaptor in my focuser so get a good reliable fit. I shine a red LED head torch on the reflective face to check the collimation in the dark. Works for me.

[emadmoussa]

Seems like a good deal on Amazon..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006FGYWM0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AC0Z9SY209HFV

[wookie1965]

Seems like a good deal on Amazon..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006FGYWM0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AC0Z9SY209HFV

Thats the one i had to dig all the silicon out the holes where the collimation screws are and re collimate it.

[emadmoussa]

Thats the one i had to dig all the silicon out the holes where the collimation screws are and re collimate it.

Sorry?

[Pig]

Aha the fun begins  

[emadmoussa]

Aha the fun begins  

Brace yourself...more on the way!

[John]

With the exception of the Hotech ones (which are not cheap of course), they all often seem to need to have their collimation adjusted before that can be accurate. I bought a Revelation one on the assumption that it would need re-collimating and it did. Now though it's quite a useful device despite it's low cost.

This is the sort of collimation process I used (my collimator looks the same too):

http://www.stark-labs.com/craig/llcc/llcc.html

I expect you are wondering why its necessary to do this if the thing is made properly ? - I guess we all wonder that too !

[emadmoussa]

Collimating the collimator...awesome!!

[wookie1965]

With the exception of the Hotech ones (which are not cheap of course), they all often seem to need to have their collimation adjusted before that can be accurate. I bought a Revelation one on the assumption that it would need re-collimating and it did. Now though it's quite a useful device despite it's low cost.

This is the sort of collimation process I used (my collimator looks the same too):

http://www.stark-labs.com/craig/llcc/llcc.html

I expect you are wondering why its necessary to do this if the thing is made properly ? - I guess we all wonder that too !

Your not kidding why sell the things saying they are collimated when they are not surely false advertising.

[Macavity]

lol @ Pig - As ever.

In a heretical way, I ever wonder about collimation. Simply, I am not convinced that the (possible, budget) collimation technology / methodology is capable of achieving the "theoretical limits" with many standard build scopes. I suspect, for mere mortals, a token (Or significant?) *effort* at collimation suffices. I speculate exact collimation comes lower in the REAL needs for many (e.g. non-imaging) astronomers.

[laowho]

lol @ Pig - As ever.

In a heretical way, I ever wonder about collimation. Simply, I am not convinced that the (possible, budget) collimation technology / methodology is capable of achieving the "theoretical limits" with many standard build scopes. I suspect, for mere mortals, a token (Or significant?) *effort* at collimation suffices. I speculate exact collimation comes lower in the REAL needs for many (e.g. non-imaging) astronomers.

Absolutely true. We use green lasers to point, and fitted one with a fat end for the EP holder to use as a simple laser collimator, and got it close enough that it pretty exactly describes/circles the paper punch hole ring center spot on the primaryprimary when we rotate it. For finishing, we prop it up a pinch to hit dead center to check the proper primary tilt. One of the many reasons we went with f/6...

[YKSE]

It'd be easier if you could take more time thinking over the needed accessaries before putting the order, isn't it

My experience from 130P is that secondary mirror usually sits quite well in these scopes, you only need to collimate the primary, a simple cheshire should do the work fine. Astro Bady's guide is good,

http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm

And I enjoy readingGary Seronik's guide:

http://www.garyseronik.com/?q=node/169

If you really want the best collimated result with laser, then you need to geta collimated laser collimator or collimated it as John mentioned, and try Nils-Olof Carlins barlowed laser collimation:

http://www.cameraconcepts.com/barlowed%20laser%20collimation.pdf

or in more detail:

http://web.telia.com/~u41105032/kolli/kolli.html

[laowho]

Remember too that f/6 has double the primary axial error tolerance than does an f/5. (Dunno which you have, but if f/6 it's very forgiving. You wouldn't believe even the miscollimated views you can get here.)

[Charic]

emadmoussa..........  A lens cap with a 1mm hole and  white paper insert (inside the cap with same 1mm hole) is the cheapest option and it works too. The alternative, to the already supplied cap is the 35mm film canister. The cap is drilled, and replaced back onto the cannister. the base of the cannister is cut off. Insert  into the focuser. Follow collimation guide!(Astro Baby)  Ive got a Next Gen laser. For me, It just makes adjustments easier on the primary mirror.  Dont believe you wont see anything through a 1mm hole, the cap works well.

 

As for collimating the collimator? My Next Gen required adjustments. There are 2 visible, and 1 under the label, holes, that are silicon filled? Dig these out to access the 3 adjusters( invalidates the warranty) One of mine is dodgy, but laser is collimated. Check this site http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE09_X43UUQ

lastly, unless the laser is correctly seated, your wasting your time. Mine requires some  finger pressure to the end of the device when installed in the focuser. Some sugest a wrap of tape,  I`ve just not found the right thickness tape for mine, as insulation tape makes too tight a fit.

[Crebles]

I've had good results with my Seben collimator out of the box. It was approx £25 from Amazon. Certainly improved the images from my 200p. Some people posting here have found theirs out of collimation. The Seben is adjustable though (allen-key grub screws under little black rubber plugs). At the other end the Hotech collimators are highly regarded.

[Naemeth]

Just get a cheshire. You can't go wrong - you could probably throw it at the wall and it would still be fine.

[Moonshane]

+ 1 for bog standard cheshire/sight tube combo. I look with my eyes not lasers.

[Swedeman2013]

Macavity as a relative beginner still in my first year, I lean toward your point of view as my 200p Skywatcher has never been adjusted and I enjoy awesome views. I check the star test keep gazing, perhaps I'm lucky! It seems with countless views on collimation, I get more confused by the day yet I'm sure these techniques work for many. Having said that a Cheshire is on my shopping list, I can't see buying a laser knowing it could be inaccurate !

[66mikeg]

another vote for a bog standard cheshire my 200p was an open box deal from FLO and badly needed collimating it realy only took me about 15 mins with a cheshire following Astrobaby's guide. It has only needed tweaking a couple of times since so the design must be fairly robust as it's moved in and out of the garage every time and re mounted on the HEQ5.

[mitchelln]

I have the Seben laser collimator from Amazon and it works well. I can highly recommend using a barlowed laser to align the primary. The barlow spreads the laser light much in the same way as normal light is passed. You get a laser light image of the primary's centre dot on the laser collimator's angled face. This method is much less susceptible to movement and position than just using the laser by itself. It also doesn't matter if the laser is not perfectly aligned itself.

Primary advantage over a Cheshire (we're talking for primary adjustment here) is you can see the dot image whilst you are adjusting the mirror screws. With the Cheshire you are working blind and end up hopping from one end of the scope to the other. Disadvantage is you can't do this in full daylight as the dot reflection is fainter than the raw laser spot.

I've checked with a Cheshire a few times after doing this barlowed laser collimation and always found it to be spot on. Saves an awful lot of agro. You can collimate in a couple of minutes.

[mitchelln]

Thought I'd show a couple of images of the barlowed laser approach.

In this picture you can see the primary's center dot doughnut reflected in the 10 o'clock position. So the mirror needs adjusting.

Now with the reflected center dot "in the hole". Also get a nice even ring of light around the edge of the collimator face. Scope's primary is aligned

Hope this of use!

[SnakeyJ]

I've tried the barlowed laser method with my NextGeneration laser, but it's not bright enough even at night. Could be the barlow, Revelation 2.5x and Baader 2.25x or poss the battery is on its way out - but otherwise an excellent method once SM is centered correctly.

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