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About Macavity

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  1. There is actually very little "real electronics" inside this one... just a whole load of potentiometers, switches, rotary encoders and a couple of Arduino Megas! The latter read multiplexed ADC's and generate MIDI messages every time something gets twiddled! There are (will be) a LOT of wires! The "clever stuff" is done by (existing) VST (Virtual Synthesiser) software. (This had only ever existed a Virtual Instrument... Until now... Muahaha!) Aside: I used to have an old Korg MS20 Synth. It got sold off to buy "other stuff" -- I have always lamented that! OTOH, maybe it's being "gigged" by someone famous? Of historical interest: I hear that some of these old (70's) 80's Analogue Synths are having their "aging innards" removed and replaced by just this sort of (digital) MIDI thing... The *Front Panel* is actually one of the more exclusive and valuable components! Of course there is the never ending discussion over the merits of analogue versus digital... The (supposed) "Classical Sound" of electronics from the (my own! lol) past etc. etc.
  2. Associated with my Astronomy Activities, I often have occasion to build small "electronics boxes" - Or rather circuit boards that take a long time to migrate to boxes?!?! Part of the issue is the drilling / lettering of front panels. Aside: This a long term Virtual Synth project with LOTS of holes: Then I discovered "Front Panel Design" - They have a base in DE too! https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/ They have a nice (downloadable) CAD tool which can be used to order the panels... But I also find useful *generally*, for "random designs"! Clearly the COST of drilling / lettering the above would be significant! (And there's the possibility of mistakes!) so I decided to order smaller sub-panels (which I can use to cover up occasional dodgy drilling! lol) At the moment "order accepted..." so "We'll see...". But I am hopeful! Around 30 Euro for small panel with holes for slider potentiometers. A lot of that is a "setup" fee, I suspect? I should've had "demo" text! But then it also saves a lot of hassle / time on my part! Notleast what a day of "slot nibbing" did to my poor old back etc! lol
  3. Thank you Robin! Great to see the possibilities... and interest! I'd be fairly happy to hear the "Cosmic Hiss" to be honest... A slight pathos that "RF" seems generally quieter there days. I could do with a nice strong/steady signal on (say) 23cm? A few more Hams - Not everyone is [DIY] angle grinding!
  4. After the recent interruption to my progress towards (potential?!) Radio Astronomy... I resumed exploration of Freq > 500MHz... with RSP1A + Nooelec LNA + Sirio Discone! With no "Ladder Guy", I poked my new Sirio SD3000N out of the landing window... (Also it's a fair bit easier to try out a *general* purpose tests with NooElec LNA etc!) But ultimately destined to join X30N (upper right) which I use for 2m/70cm SWLing. Here's the expected SWR for the Sirio Discone (>300 MHz): First thing I did was REMOVE the loaded whip -- Which gave the following measured SWRs! (Left with whip / right with whip removed!) Whatever I prefer the thing as a PURE Discone... A first puchase of "Noname" LNA didn't work at all, so I went for the Noelec *general* purpose 20dB one... Just to see what would happen when I tried it out with the RSP1A! CLEARLY 20dB extra gain is not needed for Aircraft... 2m / 70cm etc. but I tried anyway! With judicious reduction of RF gain it proved workable on e.g. 70cm... But the Discone SNR was no better than the X30N" (thankfully? lol). Anyway I intend it for higher freq... So I enlisted the help of the RSP Spectrum Analyser Software: https://www.sdrplay.com/updated-spectrum-analyser-software-for-sdrplay-rsp-family/ This shows the RF spectrum from 600 to 1600MHz with Bias-T *on* (20dB extra gain): And, just for fun... Upto 2GHz! (If anyone can ID the major bands in plots... for interest?) I IMAGINE the next stage (for attempting any Hydrogen Line 1420Mz) might be some kind of directional antenna (Satellite Dish came with the house - I've never used it!?!) Clearly I need a filtered LNA to do anything *really* useful... A Nooelec "Sawbird"?!? Hope this is of interest! An ever comments are welcome... P.S. Some inspiration was drawn from this... "Spectral Occupancy Measurements etc." https://www.researchgate.net/publication/275649440_Spectral_Occupancy_Measurements_in_Rural_and_Urban_Environments_Analysis_and_Comparison
  5. Lovely symmetrical disk -- which cannot always be said for "first lights" with solar scopes? Nicely processed too!
  6. Evidently so... But I sense we... the "Solar Collective"(?) might be able to help! If not me, then someone else? What exactly were you trying to do... I see Andrew beat me to the POINT!
  7. Excellent fine (prom) details.
  8. Good stuff! My DMK camera gave FEW NR's, but then had a "slightly dodgy" chip. I did use flats to remove some uneveness in the pixels. Using Flats for full disk resulted in images that wer (you guessed) un-attractively FLAT! I found a website that generated "real life" solar disks from algorithms that I could add... But ultimately, it seems better to try to reduce them "at source" (as you/others suggest). The thread did get me thinking: If we get some nice BIG sunspots (I'm still alive!) I might try to "drift out" the residual faint NRs I had on the above animation... But who knows? (I had some success altering tracking rates... drifting images across "dodgy" chips etc.) I suspect I should buy a spare "Chameleon Cam" --- With my "lockdown savings"...
  9. Nice rendering of the "spicule" layer. What is the Filter you are using? My Nerd senses didn't manage to spot the name in the pictures etc.
  10. Hmmm... As the exposure time is increased, the Sun "drifts around" on the chip (the mount tracking in not perfect!) and the Newtons rings "follow" it? So the image you produce (as a result of stacking/animation) contains fixed solar features (sunspots etc.) and now the Newtons rings drift around?!? A bit like the effect I am getting here... This an animation of the disk over a couple of hours (Note drifting NRs!): This is a single frame (The newtons rings are not really noticable): The human eye/brain is clearly attracted more by Movement?!?! I suspect you'll either need a Camera Chip that doesn't give NRs... OR some method of reducing them at source... like a "Tilter" etc.
  11. How are you doing the Flats? For PART disks, I use two layers of "crossed" cling film... slew to the centre of the solar disk and adjust the gain to give a curve centred at 50%. Newtons rings usually show up most (for me) when I use a Barlow Lens for part disks. Fortunately my full disks don't need flats... 'cos it's a LOT more fiddly to do them! Flats in AS!3 work well for me in removing the "blobs" due to dust on the chip etc. But I have to admit I never had too much success removing Newtons Rings via flats. Eventually, I had to "experiment with" (buy sadly! lol) various Cameras, until finding ones that didn't produce NRs in the first place -- CCD chips rather than CMOS etc. An old-style style DMK41, before "graduating" to my ICX445 based "Chameleon 3". I also found that time lapse disks (I sense that is what you are attempting) are very prone to showing even the smallest residual Newton's Rings - Too faint to see in conventional (static) DISK images. NR's are no problem for prominences, but...
  12. Heheh! I am grateful to @FLO for allowing me to return an ADM dual scope adapter. A TRULY wonderous thing, but a little too heavy for my typical (lightweight) purpose! Hmm... I'm not a big fan of scope rings! I rather fancy the idea of something like this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-guider-mounting/adm-mini-max-guider-guidescope-saddle.html Who knows... Maybe one day?
  13. I may have posted this before. But finally got around to finishing the Mk.II version! I have an HEQ5 mount -- which has a relatively limited weight handling for bigger scopes. So I have been working on a way of lowering the off-axis imbalance by mounting finders etc. "below" the main scopes... "pannier style" or whatever? No sophisticated DIY required... A piece of 80mm wide (5mm thick) Aluminium FLAT BAR is sandwiched between the ADM saddle and the "Puck". I can drill "custom holes" for finders, counterweights... whatever else I fancy. You can even mount stuff *below* the bar! Do check clearances wrt mount to avoid unpleasant crunches?!? This is one I made early... just to try out the basic idea!
  14. The ED80 objective certainly works well in by Solar Frankenscope. I have always liked the look of these TS refractors! F/7 is ideal for an even bigger Frankenscope. But then I'd need a bigger Baader ERF filter etc., so perhaps not just for the moment...
  15. In case anyone was "desperate" for a final result? I did get around processing the images... I used Registax 6 Wavelets for what its worth! I sense my focussing was a bit awry. Still using Lunt50 helical focuser. I now note "How to do stuff" using EVERNOTE! (I finally got down to "documenting stuff"... There had to be a use for bloomin' lockdown?)
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