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Everything posted by RikM

  1. I have both Astronomik UHC and Oiii filters and honestly I couldn’t say which I prefer. I tend to use the UHC first as it Tends to show ‘more’ overall. Then I will switch to the Oiii to pick out ‘more detail’ in the interesting bits.
  2. Might sneak in and watch this one if I’m still welcome. I take it hecklers are not encouraged?
  3. Great sketch. Very ‘eyepiece like’ representation.
  4. Bang on. That's exactly how I see it as well.
  5. positively encouraged
  6. 250px Dob and a couple of DSLRs
  7. I am fairly sure I've seen nebulosity in the Pleiades with my 10" Dob from darkest North Devon a few years ago. The open cluster is one of my favourite targets. There is a tiny triangle of stars near the centre like little diamonds. Gorgeous.
  8. Sorry for the extremely tardy post. I've been busy. During the eclipse I was on a business trip to Pensilvania, so couldn't really take any kit with me. Therefore, this was shot handheld with a 7D mkII and 70-200mm zoom with 2x tele-extender and a bit of Baader solar film on the front. As someone handily pointed out elsewhere, it is your standard "banana on a blackboard" shot, but I'm pleased to have got anything really
  9. My Pentax XW 14mm is my most used. It's either medium power in the Dob or nice and wide in the Pronto.
  10. A 10" is the ideal size for me. The skywatcher solid tube 12" seems huge in comparison and the flextube version or lighter weight OOUK telescope were out of budget. I live in an estate on the south side of Gloucester, but on a good night there is plenty to be seen.
  11. That's a great idea for mounting. I love my QuikFinders. They are, for me, the only essential piece of kit beyond telescope and eyepieces.
  12. Welcome to SGL. It good to see another local on board
  13. Yes. Exactly this. 'Long exposure noise reduction' is enabled. If you are taking singe exposures, you may as well leave it on if it gives good results. If you are taking multiple exposures and stacking them. Turn it off and take a set of dark frames at the end of your run.
  14. Exactly the same with mine. I just tighten the centre bolt up as well. The handled does attach at an odd angle, so getting the thread started can be a bit awkward. The AZ4 is a nice mount though
  15. A good testament to your sky as well as your guiding I'd have a horrible white (orange) out in luminance after 20 min
  16. With a DSLR, f/7 is pretty slow, yes. Due to their relatively low sensitivity and high noise, DSLR's really benefit from f/5 or faster. You can certainly take images with an f/7 scope but it will take a while.
  17. A huge DSLR sensor is a waste of processing power on an object that only covers a few hundred pixels in the middle of the frame.
  18. I have the 20x60's and they're great.
  19. The Baader MPCC is a perfect match for this scope, at least up to APS-C size sensors. That's what I use. If you are mainly using the scope for visual use for now, just leave the coma corrector in the box until you want to delve into astrophotography. I am assuming you have the motor drives for the mount already?
  20. I focus 'per filter' using a Bahtinov mask and the Bahtinov Grabber software slewing away to the nearest bright star. I use about a 5-6 sec exposure for focussing, otherwise I find myself chasing the seeing. It's all manual, rather than automated, but much better than a mk1 eyeball. With camera lenses, I look for the faintest stars in the field, because they will be all but invisible when out of focus but will pop into view when you nail focus.
  21. Rigel zero power finders work very well indeed. Laser pointers are very useful for pointing out particular stars, asterisms and such at organised events when you are looking at the sky unaided, but dedicated finders work better for accurate pointing of optical equipment.
  22. Great combination. I use my 150p on an AZ4 rather than equatorial for visual use, but the eq5 will be fine.
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