Stuart1971

I think that’s only needed for the cooler and fan...the camera alone should work from a powered USB hub...👍

It looks like the camera is listed there the three ASmedia entries...

Hello, can you share a picture of your ekos profile, so I can see what that is all set at...?

Do you know the actual locking nut we are discussing, and how thin the threads are...? Yes I agree on a normal bolt or grub screw....but on this occasion I have to respectfully disagree... 👍

Yes...I did try locktight, but it can get Into the bearing if you are not careful, it was not superglue I used (my bad) I used but a blob of hot glue, as it comes off in one lump and leaves no residue, and will hold the ring in place on the outside....with no possible issues for the bearing

There are many errors in there, and if you read my first post regarding this I said, IN MY OPINION, and it’s just that, I have stripped and re built this mount a few times...and I first used this guide, and would never use again, as I found many errors and things that were just not correct....but it’s all in my opinion, and I am not going to slate the guide on here, it’s not the time or the place...it can be useful to a beginner, but there are quite a few techniques in there that need to be updated for one reason and another....

I have just pointed out the errors in the EQ6 astro baby strip down, based on the job the OP needs to do, there was no point in telling them that the CW locking nut does not need to be tightened as per the guide, (again as tight as possible with half a turn back) as that would have been pointless... 👍

I think it is more likely to be the mesh adjustment. If you have made it worse, as tightening the worm locking nut would not do that, so you will need to strip down the R.A. housing and find the issue, it sounds like getting the engagement sorted...maybe order some new bolts and grub screws for the job too... 👍😀

I have, read my post again.... 🤔

That is very dated now and some things are incorrect...like in there it tells you so lock the locking ring as tight as it will go until it causes binding, then back off slightly, well by that time you could have damaged the bearings, so I would not use that...there is other incorrect advice in there too....just my opinion... 😉

Well in That case it could be the worm shaft bearings, as they are quite delicate hence not to overtighten the locking ring.. or a clutch issue..

I don’t think that play is from backlash so I really dont think loosening those 4 nuts is a good idea, as it’s a pain to set that, especially in the warmer weather, it really need to be set in The colder weather, or you will get binding I just dont think that the backlash would have altered that much to cause that, unless it’s always been like it since your mod, and so was not adjusted properly then...

There is a special tool for tightening this, but circlip or long thin nosed pliers will also work... 👍 if you Have had the belt mod done, then it will almost certainly be this. As once undone for the mod, it will always work loose after, unless it’s locked down somehow, like I say a blob of glue on the outside of the lock ring into the threads will sort it..

Yes you need to check the worm locking ring under the black cap on the R.A., they do have a habit of working loose...a blob of super glue will help when tightened, if it is this don’t overtighten, just enough to remove the lateral play...take off the black cap and rock it you will see the play...I think it’s the cap on the control board side, not the other... 👍

It is an option on PI3 just waiting for USB boot on PI4 now.. 👍

Yes just use disc image software to create a back up image... I have done that.. 👍 https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/

Hmmmm, looks very interesting... 👍

Personally, I would never use a polar scope as the chances are that they are not perfectly aligned with the mount..or aligned within there own tube, they can be calibrated but I would not bother..... Use a scope and a camera and use sharpcap, or even better buy a polemaster camera... As for home position it is a good idea to mark on the mount the home position so you can repeat this, a small sharpie mark on the mount will help...

You have 4 files highlighted in the box shown in the image above...

Yes the above is correct, just highlight one image at a time... 👍

I too would like to here some reviews of the new Skywatcher EQ8-r Mount, and whether it’s much better than the original, ie, less backlash...I know they are supposed to have a better designed clutch fitted, which is good as the old ones are diabolical, holding wise and the fact they cause radial movement on the DEC shaft when tightened due to the bad design...which In turn does not help with the backlash.... Not sure the move to belt drive on the DEC axis was a good idea or not, as the direct driver seemed to work well, but it was done to make the mount easier to balance... hmmmm did not really need that... as bad me on the EQ8 is not an issue as it’s such a beast of a mount, it can handle slight offset very well.... So if there are any EQ8-r owners out there....pipe up... 😀😀

I have just updated again and all is good....whatever the issue it’s sorted... 👍

I thought the whole point was position repeatability, which you won’t get on grass.. 🤔🤔

Yes I had same issue, but Jasem sorted mine....it was down to a driver with one incorrect symbol in the code and so it won’t load any of the INdI drivers....and only the third party ones... But I would have assumed he had updated the source....

Can’t see the point for the sake of £10 as the parts to make one would cost as much.... 👍👍