Stuart1971

So the next thing is to try the set up on a PC and not the ASIair to rule that out…👍🏻

Well done indeed…..👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Turn the multimeter to the audible setting and put the two probes one on the centre pin, and then the other on the solder points until you get the buzzer sound then you have the connection / completed circuit and so the correct solder point….

The socket will be centre pin positive…so use your multimeter to see which solder point goes to the centre pin…

Of what exactly…?

Appologies if you thought I was rude, it wasn’t meant that way, I was just blunt…👍🏻 positive should be the centre pin of the socket and the plug will also be centre positive…

I am totally at a loss, as to how you managed to do all this soldering, and now only just asking which the + and - are on the board, surely that should have been a question to ask before you started….🤔🤔 or maybe it’s just me…. also, in case this was one of the things you did not understand, “well tinned’ means that you have solder on both the end of the cable you are soldering, and also on the spot on the board to solder too, as you don’t want to have to add more solder while heating the joint, this can cause other bits to overheat, or at least in my experience…so solder on both, then touch the cable to the board and heat both until they flow, then remove iron. But I am sure other more experienced people will have better ways of explaining this…

Well you are very lucky then…as it is a very well spoken about issue on many forums…👍🏻

I agree, it only looks half the size of the Esprit 120, that was big for a 120mm scope, on the picture of the guy holding this on the advert it looks really small in comparison…

Get a new board, and use it as it comes, throw the soldering iron in the garbage…👍🏻 if you are really bothered about the power cable pulling out, just change the input power connecter for a screw on type, only 2 wires to solder and well away from the main board….

That does look a pretty poor job TBH, sorry just saying it how it is….and how it looks 😮😮 would like to see the other side of the board where the wires are actually attached….🤔

I assume now you are NOT using any ZWO supplied USB cables as they are complete junk…also have you tried the camera on other software like Sharpcap or NINA on a PC, to rule out the ASIair being the issue…as at the end of the day it’s just an RPI inside and they can fail too…

Ah, ok did not know that, maybe there are more then, well you learn something new every day….

Just been looking at the diagrams of the scope on the FLO link, I am curious as the objective lens is a 120mm but the tube is only 110mm diameter, I have never seen a tube smaller that the objective lens, on a refractor before… my 100mm esprit has a 131mm diameter tube…so won’t this cause vignetting..? 🤔

Hi Scotty, I agree it looks very good, and I was tempted by the 103mm version that came out a while back, there is a thread in here about that one, it’s a great price even with both the reducer / flattener, and the flattener, I had the 120 esprit very briefly, but due to damage from mishandling at the dealers on the scope it went back, and there were no more in stock, so went for the esprit 100 with full Zygo check from RVO, they will run that check on any scope you buy from them, (or any scope you want to take to them, at a cost of course) which I think is well worth the extra cost involved for piece of mind…you know you are getting a well configured scope. look forward to hearing about whichever scope you go for…👍🏻

I have gone through this a couple of times and I get exactly where you are coming from, what worked for me was to make it a winter only hobby, I image from when the clocks go back to about the end of April, then I have other hobbies, mainly mountain biking that take over for the summer and I don’t touch my Astro kit, then by the time the late autumn / winter gets here, I am ready to get stuck in again….

Darks are not just for amp glow, they are there to sort other things too, like hot pixels, walking noise to some extent, and dark noise, again to some extent, these issues can also be mostly sorted by dithering, but I find it much much easier just to use darks than dither…

Beautiful, as we come to expect from you now Adam….👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

It should not take anywhere near that long to cool, a few mins max…I would leave it about 5 mins to be sure That camera should have a control box that you can set the cooler power on….?

Means, “Let the buyer beware”

Correct…

I was quite surprised at the no filter at all images, I would have expected them to have a red / pink hue to them, as my modified DSLR does.. 🤔

Yes, your title was correct…👍🏻

This was the title on the listing.. SONY a5000 FULL SPECTRUM/ IR CONVERTED CAMERA BODY BLACK 2710A

I think it’s because the seller put “IR conversion” and “full spectrum” in the title..