alacant

Not sure what st modules you used nor what you did in GIMP but here are a few general points for st and faint nebulosity. On the second and any subsequent AutoDevs, try including a more representative ROI. Experiment with different ROIs looking at the effect of each. For example, try part of the nebula, then an area of star field. Try a saturated star with and without background... The best way to get the hang of it is to try it. It only takes a few seconds and you see the results instantly. In this shot I think it important to sample faint nebulosity as well as part of that dense star field, otherwise as you note, the stars take over. Another good indication of whether you're losing data is to have a look at the transition between nebula and background. Don't allow the latter to go too dark with too abrupt a gradient. Don't worry if you don't get it right first time as the beauty of st is that you can redo development as and when you like.

Lovely data and a nice process. Maybe leave a more room for the fainter stuff via the AutoDevs? This is with -very close to default- settings- on v1.8.512 under Ubuntu:

Siril has a good re-sample routine under 'geometry', but it's not as good as the one in StarTools' 'Bin' module. At that focal length, maybe best to bin anyway though. Fast computer or otherwise.

Hi Good idea. It's an excellent way improving your images. In fact, unless you've a top end gaming machine upon which to process full frame stacks, binning as the first stage in processing is also a good way to speed up subsequent steps. Most astro software has a bin algorithm. Some work better than others though. Cheers and HTH.

Hi everyone Maybe this will help visualise? Here is a photo of a Dell computer. It cost €80. It runs indi, ekos and kstars. It just works. All night. No rpi. No windows. Anywhere. You can sit next to it and use the touchpad and keyboard or control it from anywhere there's a connection to Internet using your 'phone, a tablet... Cheers

Well done. A great improvement. With that amount of data though, I still think there could be more to be had. There seems to be some of the fainter stuff missing. The clue being the second AutoDev. Lose the dark flats and don't get too hung up with the noise;) Cheers

I've only looked through one. With an eyepiece. Great for carrying around from place to place. Very colourful, as confirmed here. A visitor summed it up well, 'It's like looking at a wo telescope in daylight!'. Cheers

Hi Another advantage is still being able to use your Nikon lenses -just add a cheap adapter-. Another being a route to myriad -many excellent- m42 lenses, such as Takumar as Zeiss, using an equally economical adapter. Cheers and good luck.

Hi Nothing wrong. You just need an extra step; debayer. Then you'll see colour. I used Siril, but most astro apps will do something similar. Cheers and HTH

Hi Very difficult to say with what we have. Cheers

800d? It would probably be a lot easier viewing on your 'phone instead. At any angle you like:) When you get close to your target, lose live view and take single, say 5s, frames at ISO12800 so you can see any nebulosity and frame properly. +1 for @Grant93's suggestion of a well aligned finder telescope to get you close, although at just over 300mm, you'll probably be ok without. Cheers and HTH

Hi Dust. It's quite normal. Best not to remove it as it forms part of the flattening process for your light frames. If you want to fight it (futile!) You can clean the sensor, but be sure to clean it after you have used the current set of flat frames, otherwise you'll be left with dust marks on your final image. HTH.

NP. PM sent.

Hi JTOL: try just the dithered frames too? I think that you're gonna need at least 2 hours of dithered frames to be able to bring the second and any subsequent Autodev(s)to where you'd like it. Post the data if you like. Cheers

Hi everyone 95% moon and once again it was filtro UHC to the rescue. The processing did reveal some gradient, strangely though emanating from two opposing edges. There maybe some reflection somewhere in the tube. Must get some of that velvety stuff. I don't know if it helped noise wise, but we split the red and green and fed them into StarTools as HOO. The bg seems high too. Not sure... Thanks for looking and do post your dslr full moon shots. No need to keep stuff packed away just because there's a bright moon. Well, we don't think so anyway. ** A snap from Burnham, 1966. Love the old fotos. Stars in the same places! 700d on gso203 ~4 hours @ ISO800 **EDIT Tried separating the red and green in Siril instead (previously, gimp 2.10). Seems to push the stars into insignificance. A pity, as the detail seems better:

Please accept my apologies. Totally childish. Clear skies.

No! Just trying to avoid any confusion for any future readers of the thread:) Cheers

You mention EQMOD on Windows and EKOS on Linux as if they were the same thing! If you use EQMOD in Windows, you'll use EQMOD on Linux. Let's hope this hasn't removed the simplicity of the answer to the (I think excellent) question: Yes. Cheers and HTH.

Hi Nice shot. You've thrown away a lot of the nice darker bits. Leave room for them. There's almost certainly a lot more to be had:) Most astro software will shift it. The cleanest I've seen is StarTools' Wipe. Siril also does a good job and has the advantage of removing the banding on each frame before stacking using its sequence thingy. To minimise it, lose the dark frames and give a bigger dither between each frame. Cheers and HTH

If you want to give it a go, Ascom Remote/Alpaca tries to do this. I'd venture however that it's of little or no interest to Linux users who've had native client-server from the outset. Cheers

Hi Could be. Maybe best simply to go along to an astro club meeting and see it being used. A Linux INDI Kstars installation upon e.g. a laptop is exactly equivalent to the same running Windows ascom APT. It is limited neither to fixed observatories nor do you have to use remote desktop to manage it. If you so wish, you could sit with a Linux laptop at the mount and control it in exactly the same way as you would with windows. Same cables, same hardware. Same everything. Apart from the operating system. If you want ascom, either just use Windows or try Alpaca. I don't think though, there'll be much enthusiasm for a port of EKOS to connect to it. Cheers

Hi My poor explanation. But yes. INDI, the bit which runs your mount and cameras etc. runs under Linux. I think it's maybe the client-server bit which is the most misunderstood. If you want just a single computer, then a Linux laptop at at the mount could be used to run both INDI and EKOS, the same as you would say ascom and SGP on windows. For beginners, we use Ubuntu mini-pcs running INDI-EKOS at the mount to supply remote imaging. Our experience with teamviewer is largely unprintable on a family site; most take our advice and connect over VNC, A few understanding souls also learn the ssh tunnel so taking control into their own hands so we can get some sleep! Cheers

Kstars EKOS runs on windows. Fact. It is a CLIENT. Yes. No. Note: you don't need a virtual machine. Another computer to act as the server (e.g. your rpi) is fine and to be recommended. HTH

Yes, of course it does:) We see many visitors struggle with SGP/NINA/stellarium and WHY. The simplicity and stability of Linux client-server comes as a breath of fresh air to many. There seems to be a lot of confusion about what Kstars and EKOS do. Maybe some pictures? Here is an INDI server controlling the hardware: And here is Kstars with EKOS communicating with it. On the same laptop sitting by the telescope if you really must. But then you've lost all the client server control-from-anywhere-with-Internet (or even just your warm dining room!) advantage. That's it. Installation takes around 5 minutes. There'as nothing else you need. No third party imaging program. No separate guide program. No separate planetarium. No anti-virus... It doesn't get much simpler:) Cheers and HTH.

Which was the version that worked?