Jump to content

alacant

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6,382

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

 Content Type 

Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    No. The GSO increases the FL and pushes the point of focus away from the tube so no need to cut anything. The secondary only just about covers a dslr sensor as it stands. But by all means try it. A few M5 bolts and stronger springs and you're in business although of the two ideas, cutting the focuser would be our choice. At the rock bottom budget end of the market, very little is optimised out of the box. Cheers
  2. alacant
    Of the ones we've tried on the 130, the GPU is by far the best. Yes, it works well at f4 too. For round stars, you need to cut the focuser on all but the GSO. But hey, you may get lucky. Some never notice;) HTH
  3. alacant
    Hi We tried four CCS. Assuming affordable is important... If you want corner to corner over aps-c out of the box, the GPU. The GSO comes a close second with the added advantage of not needing the focuser barrel cutting, the disadvantage being that it increases the focal length to over 700mm. Then comes the sw 0,9 which widens the field to a nice 585mm with the Baader the least satisfactory and prone to astigmatism. No theory. Just our hands on. HTH
  4. alacant
    Maybe because it's had all the pi stuff stripped from it? There's some lovely detail. I think the stars add to it and the context.
  5. alacant
    Hi Load the file and try: FILE -> save as Choose .fits Cheers
  6. alacant
    We'd gladly have a go, but unfortunately it's for pi users only:(
  7. alacant
    Hi Post the unprocessed stack if you like.
  8. alacant
    Hi If you really do want to make the green circle coincide and it really isn't the thumb screws or tilt in the camera or the camera's sensor, try reseating the knurled collar, machining the top of the m54 thread square to the barrel... Or (much easier!) collimate using a Cheshire sight tube. Don't forget to read both telia and seronik who tell it just as it is. Cheers and HTH.
  9. alacant
    Mmm. So it is displaced and tilted in the focuser barrel by the cable and it's own mass. Don't forget that with a Newtonian oriented horizontally, there is the tendency for the primary mirror to tilt forward toward the secondary; it is not held rigidly. Perhaps best to fix the camera firmly and collimate at a series of angles at which the telescope could actually assume when in use imaging. Cheers.
  10. alacant
    The image(s) download is the old way of visualising it. With the overlay, you don't need them. Use one or the other; if you're short on graphics memory, go for the downloaded thumbnails. If not, just use the overlay; it's far prettier. If you like to search using ngc and ic numbers, maybe go for the catalogues too? These can also be found at Kstars -> Data -> Download New Data Cheers
  11. alacant
    Hi Really? Kstars has the best graphics I've found on any planetarium. maybe you don't have any overlay set? You can use the NSEW mount controls to centre your camera accurately anywhere in the sky. Instead of 'Slew to Target', centre your desired field of view then in the Align module, check 'Sync' instead. It will show you exactly where you are aiming and the camera's field of view no matter which orientation you set. Cheers and HTH
  12. alacant
    Hi I agree with @Jamgood. The two thumbscrews push the camera -or whatever is attached- off centre. The best way we've found to cure this is the third screw at 120º. Unfortunately the compression ring version still only has two screws and suffers the same mislignment, minus a bit for the thickness of the ring itself. So both require a third hole tapping. Oh, also have you tried eyeballing using a collimation cap then using a simple Cheshire sight tube with cross hairs? You may find it easier. Cheers and HTH
  13. alacant
    Hi everyone This season's attempt at m45 whilst we still had use of the little 130. The aim was to try for a bit of that brownish coloured dust/fog you see all over Taurus. It's beginning to appear, but it's gonna need more frames to clean it and lose the noise. Just couldn't persuade myself to hit the denoise button. Yet... eos700d en 130pds. Calibración y apilado: Siril. Procesado: StarTools 1.8.516 EDIT: added an further 10 x 300s frames. Looks like that's the limit. Can't see much improvement...
  14. alacant
    Don't want to hijak the OP's thread but anyway,.. If you're still not sure, when you're inside, you'll see that the hot mirror has a blue colour to it. On an eos, it's the sandwiched one. Good luck and please let us know how you get on. Cheers and HTH.
  15. alacant
    Both filters on an eos are IR. Remove both for full spectrum, Removal of just the hot mirror is fine for most deep red astro stuff. HTH
  16. alacant
    Hi The cone bearings at the base of each axis are almost invariably adjusted too tightly and some we've seen, dry. Many I suspect spend their entire lives like this. Very easy to fix: Just the bottom bit of each need be adjusted. A quarter turn anti-clockwise of the bush is usually all that's required. Cheers
  17. alacant
    Fit m4 bolts and thumb nuts. Or just bolts with simple hex-nuts. Or knurled head bolts... Much easier. HTH
  18. alacant
    Hi Excellent. Love it. Removal of the hot mirror really does make the red hit you. Loosen the mirror clips (even better, remove them and fix the mirror to the cell using silicone sealant) and have a look at the individual frames. Remove any which have elongated, fat or nudged-double stars. Or just run it through ST's Repair module. Oh, and don't forget to remove the stacking artefacts from around the edges of the stack a good few pixels more than you think;) Cheers
  19. alacant
    Hi everyone UHC filter for this one. An attempt at HOO with blue in ST's NBAccents. The filter passes very little: we needed 10 minute frames to get anywhere near. Thanks for looking and do post if you've any 130/dslr/uhc stuff. eos700d: 15x10min @ ISO800
  20. alacant
    Thanks. And why not... My attempt. I loaded the blue into ST's NBAccent and then increased the blue-green a bit in dt. Very much user trials, and -lots of- error. Hate having to resort to masks:
  21. alacant
    Hi The big strength of st is that if you have inadvertently gone too far, it's easy to go back to AutoDev and go again. No need to start over from zero. Go as many times as you need:) if you're finding subsequent modules produce artefacts, that could not only simply be a sign of poor choice of ROIs but also poor calibration/stacking or that the data itself is not that good. in your case, clearly the quality is there. If there's detail, ST will find it like no other. What I'd recommend is looking at the calibration process again. Cheers
  22. alacant
    Hi everyone After having had only a dim 72ed for the past weeks, it was nice to get something bright and lively once more. Here are some clusters: ngc884 and ngc869 in Perseus. ngc1907 and m38 in Auriga. Thanks for looking. eos700d @ ISO800 l to r: ngc884 ngc869 top down: m38, ngc1907
  23. alacant
    Ah, ok. If you don't like that and have the time [1], either try st v1.8.516's Unglow or simply fuzz the outer bit of the star(s) in layers. Cheers [1] My processing attention span in front of a computer screen doesn't allow me to go much beyond 10 minutes!
  24. alacant
    So would I:) This is my go, developed -sorry, couldn't resist- to within a fraction of a milimeter of its life. There is some lovely detail. But yes, I see what you mean about the dark anomaly. Cheers
  25. alacant
    No. that's the newer model with the hexagon-thingy focuser. If the one for sale has a 2" focuser, diagonal and eyepiece I'd say go for it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.