alacant

Hi Yes. It's easy to do and makes the diffaction even and smaller; there are no dark areas in the diffaction pattern. The silicone blobs should be applied so they flow up the side of the mirror where the clips were when the mirror is replaced. Practise the amount you need to achieve this by using a curved block of wood. Apply the correct amount of neutral silicone, push the mirror gently into the cell and leave to cure in a horizontal surface for 24 hours. Unless you plan on hitting the tube hard whilst upside down, the mirror will not shift. The main advantage of this method however is not the tighter stars, rather the ability to hold collimation at all angles, before and after meridian flips, and between sessions, even if you transport the tube between locations. Cheers and HTH

It looks quite dated. For example, there's the m42 cc which may never have made it out of Taiwan. But anyway, I don't think they do retail. Cheers

That's lovely. TBH I don't think you're missing much in the way of colour in the nebula. It's all red! I like your coloured stars and how you've got more detail in the red. Compared with the UHC, the duo band filters are €silly and son't seem to do as good a job, but of course YMMV. Thanks for posting.

€ 117,14 | GSO-Corrector de Coma MPCC para telescopio Newtoniano, 2" https://a.aliexpress.com/_u7l29G

Hi If you don't like the built in debugger, just run under gdb and look at the bt. Nikon, so try libgphoto2, available from the same vendor as kstars. AP, so there are three indi_lx200apxxx drivers for the mount. Try each in turn in permutations with the camera driver until you reach stability. Perhaps make a separate EKOS profile for each? Cheers

The prescription changes. Ours is an old Hungarian model. The mass produced Chinese varieties may give different results. YMMV. The only way is to... Correct. Do post your findings. Cheers.

You: 52.16

? Try this. You are able to adjust to a tolerance of 0.16mm?!

Google;) A search confirms what it says in the box. Pragmatism is however IMO by far the best approach. We use 53mm for the 130 and 55 for the 200. But just try it. You may not notice any difference; The correction still works. All that happens is that the stars get fatter.

F=600mm, working distance = 51.66mm F=800mm, working distance = 53.66mm F=1000mm, working distance = 55.0mm F=1200mm, working distance = 54.66mm > 1500mm, working distance = 54.60mm

? But anyway... You'll be given the correct spacing along with the cc. Lose your adapter. We use a 1mm optical path t-adapter and an 8mm extension ring.

Yeah. It happens, although I see in your details 'Rock64 with INDI & Ekos/Kstars', so you've most of the battle won:)

I sense from your reaction that you too sir are also well versed in failed meridian flips and dropped Internet connections, which invariably occur at three in the morning!

Hi everyone Our target-at-a-sensible-distance-from-the-moon on Saturday was ngc7293. Still using the UHC and with the Mediterranean haze developing at low altitude to the south, this one took on a blue cast. To correct, I used StarTools' Compose, Colour and NBAccent modules: HOO with blue in the latter. Thanks for looking and do post if you've had a go at this with a dslr and a 130. eos700d + GPU cc. ~3 1/2h @ ISO800

Hi everyone Here is a HOO of ngc1499 from a UHC filter with the moon very close by. The filter does a great job on excluding the glare. Thanks for looking and do post if you've had a go. We'd be particularly interested in dslr + UHC/L-eNhance/L-exTreme combinations. eos700d on 130pds + GPUcc ~10h 30 @ ISO800 ***EDIT. An in-your-face version. Not sure...

Really? What's missing? Cheers

There's an -very- actively developed Mallincam driver in Indi and an equally stable eqmod diver for your eq5 under the same. You don't need ascom on Linux. Installation instructions here. You need only the first three steps. HTH

https://www.valkanik.com/correctores-de-campo-y-reductores-de-focal/corrector-de-coma-de-2

Hi If it's anything like as good as the 4-element AR152 f5 from the same manufacturer, you're in for a treat. Loadsa wide field 'wows' to be had. Sagittarius is breathtaking. Available here. HTH

Hi If you're going to be hosting remote clients, take my advice. Don't be the guy on the ground at the telescope end;)

Excellent images. If ever anyone needed... As an alternative to the baffle and one which retains the full diameter, simply remove the clips and fix the primary using three small helpings of neutral silicone sealant, sufficient and placed so a little oozes up the side where the clips were when the mirror is re-seated. Push down lightly to distribute then leave for 24 hours on a level surface. This method has the advantage of retaining collimation at all imaging angles and between sessions. Cheers

Correct choice. You got there in the end! --- --- --- ***EDIT: I think maybe we owe @JoshHopkan apology. Here's hoping it's been useful for all.

Optically it's a close second. The main problem in using it with a pds is the focus position. It is so far out from the tube that it is both very difficult to balance and I have serious doubts about the sw focuser's ability to maintain a camera at the required distance without tilt.

Hi Nice shot. Here's the/our pragmatic approach to the Baader cc: There is tilt: tap a third hole on the focuser collar at 120º to the two existing screws. The flo adapter may help but still has only two screws, so still needs tapping. Push the camera-cc assembly hard up against the focuser collar whilst tightening each screw a tiny bit at a time until you're tight. The Baader cc has to be within 1mm of 58mm between the shoulder of the cc and the camera sensor. Yours looks a touch too close. It also has to be totally perpendicular to the optical axis. One good method to achieve this is to use a 4mm spacer e.g. the ring from a low profile 2" filter, having firstly of course, removed Baader's own attempt at spacing;) Other ccs are far more tolerant to both spacing and tilt. Or don't bother, stay as you are and just correct the stars in software;) ** If you're still in the grace period, it maybe worth considering exchanging the cc for the sw, gso or -best of all- the gpu. Discussion here. Cheers and HTH

The secondary mirror intercepts the cone of light reflected from the primary mirror. Move the cone further up the tube... Now the secondary can't catch all the light as the diameter of the cone has increased; the bits around the edge now escape reflection. In this game, you need every photon you can lay hands upon!