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  1. Hello there! Knowing I would have a clear night on Friday, I was preparing myself to image the whole Veil Nebula in Cygnus with my samyang 135mm. Sadly, after watching TV and getting up at half 4 every morning for work that week, I fell to sleep at about half 9 and woke up at half 11 (When I should of already been imaging!), So I got up, and with a slight rush I went out and set up, trying to find the Veil after setting up. After a few frustrating test shots at different stars trying to find the right one, I came across the Sadr region, and as I didnt want to waste anymore time, I just thought, what the hell, Ill image this instead. The shots looked good, surprising myself at how much HA the unmodded 800d was picking up, and almost clearly seeing IC1318 in a 60 second exposure. After seeing that, and googling other peoples un modded attempts, I was excited thinking it was going to be my best image yet! Sadly this wasn't the case, although I truly believe the data has potential, but my editting skills just don't. I've tried editting in both GIMP and startools multiple times. But I am struggling with the glow of the milky way, washing out half my picture and the crescent nebula area. In my best edit, which I will post, you can clearly see all of the nebula I was trying to pick up, but half of it is washed out. Advise on this will be greatly appreciated, on how to darken the glow of the milkyway without loosing data on the nebulas. I also think flats would massively help, but still trying to find the right equipment to do this with. As always I will post my attempt, which was done in startools, and the TIFF incase anyone else would like to tackle this . As always the details; Canon 800D iOptron Skyguider pro Samyang 135mm 1 Hour and 30 Minutes of lights @ 60 second exposures. 25 Darks 25 Bias sadr3rd.TIF
  2. Woah! You posted this just as I am downloading the free trial hahahaha Must be fate
  3. Woah, I'm always amazed when someone else makes a brilliant image out of my captures. Shows I really have a lot to learn on processing! Maybe I should learn something along the lines of pixinsight or photoshop. Cheers
  4. Hello everyone! Got another clear night on a Saturday last weekend. So I decided to try and capture some more data for my last attempt at the North american nebula, which was posted here not too long ago. First time I've tried to add data to a picture from more than 1 night, I would say it didnt go too successfully. I was using the Samyang 135mm, and when stacking the pictures all together, I noticed the outcome was insanely white. Even when saved to a TIFF when it gets even darker, it wasn't very dark, which I will also upload for everyone to see. So I think I over exposed the picture, the NA wasn't at the zenith, but it was very high when I started imaging, so I don't think its the surrounding bortle 5 light pollution that was the problem. I was shooting 90 second exposures which is the same exposure length as what I was adding to, at F2.8. Now I didnt take note last time at the F stop, stupid of me, so am I right by assuming I just had it open too wide? If so, would it be better next time to shorten the exposures and have it wide open, or keep it at 90 seconds and find the sweet spot F stop (Seems to be the most I can get before trails, unguided)? The stack is only bright when I add last Saturdays shots, not my month old ones. What I am pleased with is I feel its picked up far more structure of the Pelican and NA by stacking the combined 2 nights worth of data. And to be perfectly honest, I think the extra color just comes from me experimenting with saturation for the first time haha, not the extra data. But just to reiterate, I do believe the extra structure and density of the nebula is from the extra data. I understand these sort of targets aren't great for unmodded, but what other bright HA targets are good to have a go at? And in comparison to the NA nebula, how bright are they? Stock EOS 800D iOptron Skyguider Pro Samyang 135mm 800 ISO 2hrs of Lights @ 90 second exposures 30 Darks 30 Bias No Flats (I want a sock I can pull over my lenses and rest a tablet on it, anyone know where to find one?) Heres the new, heavily cropped as you will see from the TIFF the edges are terrible from my framing. The old one which has been posted here before. And the TIFF, feel free to experiment with it I know it terribly bright though! Edit: Also one thing I forgot to mention, on the new picture, also not happy with them unusually blue stars! I feel the first attempt look more 'real' na2ndtry.TIF
  5. Haha no problem A lot of trials and errors for us new comers in astrophotography
  6. Ignore this post, accidentally added when trying to edit old one.
  7. Thank you, that would be brilliant. I'll have to look into when the next meet up is Be nice to get advise off experienced people in person . Cheers! I think I have only had one in the past three weeks now
  8. Hey there, With a T2I and a ZS61, and me assuming that a T2i is a crop sensor, if you see deneb in your exposure, its a good chance you have missed the NA nebula anyway (Tordapending on rotation), this is just from my experience of a crop sensor eos 800d and ZS61. To frame up your ZS61 to NA Nebula, I'm not sure on the exact vocabulary to use so Ill try and explain it as best as I can. But in Cygnus's current position in the early night sky, Deneb is above Xi Cygni (Which it should be if I am assuming right, with you being in the Northern Hemisphere), You should frame XI Cygni right at the bottom of your shot, this way you will have all of the NA nebula in your shot, but you will not see Deneb. Here is also an example of a single shot on my unmodified 800D, 90 seconds exposure in a bortle 5 sky, compared to 1 hours data (If I remember right), stretched A LOT. As you see, if you didnt know NA nebula was there in the single shot, you probably wouldnt see it at all. The final image is cropped, the single exposure is uncropped, as you can see both Deneb and XI Cygni is visible, but this is because Im using a Samyang 135mm at the time, not my ZS61. I just put these there to show you even in a 90 second exposure NA Neb is basically invisible compared to the finished product. So when framing objects like this, you've got to look for the positions of the brighter stars and compare to other finished photos of the NA neb, kind of like old fashioned manual platesolving . Hope this helps, Grant
  9. Wow, I can't thank you enough for all that haha! That looks brilliant, will definitely be using that to plan my nights in future and referring back to this for instructions
  10. Hello there! I know the feeling from my first night of trying to frame something, very frustrating burning away valuable imaging time just finding an object some people advise platesolving which is probably the best way, not got round to doing that myself so wouldn't be able to explain exactly how that works. Plenty of youtube videos on it I'm sure But I use a red dot finder myself, I find a bright star to focus on anyway, usually deneb or vega at the moment, you should know when these bright stars are on your cameras live view, compared to the less bright surrounding stars, whilst doing that I also align my Red dot finder to that star. That way when it comes to finding your object you just need to know where it lies relative to the stars, take a short exposure when you think you're about right, check and adjust accordingly, can usually get the object framed within 2-3 30 second exposures Hope this helps Grant
  11. Thank you I do want to take flat frames, just havent got round to getting the equipment for it, I could use my fiances tablet, just need one of them handy socks I see some people using. I am really looking forward to shooting some of them targets you mentioned, just hope we have enough clear skies during the winter. Just looked at the link you sent me, very handy tool, I will use this in future thank you Grant
  12. Awesome pictures! The only filter I own is a UHC filter, so will try it myself on the next clear night. How much of this is effected by having a unmodified DSLR, is it just the reds that will be faded? Cheers Grant
  13. Thank you Looks like I will have to hunt for some bigger targets then Having a north west facing back garden and my house facing the south east, feels like its blocking all the good stuff! I am reluctant to set up on the driveway Grant
  14. Hi Richard, Interesting read that was As far as sleep deprivation goes, I cant answer as working rotating shifts means I am always tired anyway But for other suggestions, as we don't get proper night time back until late July, splitting doubles is a great thing to do in the summer time, but also look for some brighter DSOs which are at optimal elevations above the horizon right now, M13, M92, M57 are a few off the top of my head Clear skies! Grant
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