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Ouroboros

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About Ouroboros

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    Brown Dwarf

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    South Oxfordshire & North Cornwall Coast
  1. Wow! Chocks away with that! Amazing photo.
  2. @FOTOGRAFO It will be interesting to read which software you choose and how you get on with it. Good luck.
  3. Very impressive and professional work this! How remote is "remote". It never ceases to amaze me that people trust a remote observatory to work properly. I'm not so much techno-phobic as techno-sceptic.
  4. Quite. As the Frenchman said "I did think that secondhand Ferrari was cheap at £225,990".
  5. Continental Europeans use a comma for the decimal point. I think that looks odd.
  6. Hi couple of weeks ago we talking about using a DSLR on my explorer 150.Camera is a canon 40D bit old i know,i have the attachments  the Canon eos ring and the T piece. no i experimented in the garden  just on a tv antenna which was a success,photo enclosed.Now i tried on the  Moon this evening,between clouds and was a total failure,no way could i get it into focus,i tried 2 methods one with T piece direct into   telescope eye piece and again with a barlow,both failed.Is it poss i may need a extension tube to  get focus?.Telescope is non motor at the moment.Sorry to be a nuisance.    Regards derek

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    1. Show previous comments  20 more
    2. Ouroboros

      Ouroboros

      OK. Let us know how it goes. 🙂 

    3. djs44

      djs44

      Hi got a break in the clouds removed eye piece holder attached eos ring and  screwed that direct  to the 2 inch thread whic put my camera up real close. took a photo at least i got  some thing this time.now i wish to get a closer photo i have a prob none of my  1.25 eye pieces will fit on scope as i removed the 1.25 eye piece holder.so i have no idea how to get a more detailed photo.

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    4. Ouroboros

      Ouroboros

      Progress! Is that with the focuser wound right in? Or have you got some adjustment either side of the optimum focus? 

      With your telescope, that is as big as the moon will appear with the prime focus method you're  using. It's the same with my telescope, which is a 200P. The moon doesn't quite fill the photograph.

      You will be able to get a rather sharper photo. I suggest using the manual setting with the aperture set as wide as possible. You'll need short exposures because you don't have motors on your mount I think and the moon is moving all the time. Setting a higher ISO will require a shorter exposure. Experiment! 

      Focus the telescope also in manual mode using live view. Adjust the exposure duration until you see the moon clearly. You might have a x5 or x10 setting in live view which allows you to zoom in on some feature on the moon to focus carefully. 

      When you're happy with focus, shoot lots of images varying the exposure. It's called 'bracketing'.  You're more likely to get a good photo that way. One or two will probably be the right exposure. 

      Another tip: I suggest using a ten second delay so the scope vibration has time to settle after you press the shutter. 

      Practise all this in daylight. It makes it easier when you try later in the cold and dark if you're well practised during the day. 

      Good luck. 

       

  7. Seno is sine in Portuguese, maybe other languages.
  8. That is magnificent. That's one of the best I've ever seen too. You have used two quite different scopes haven't you! Which images were obtained with each? PS That Epsilon is one hell of a scope isn't it. Hell of a price too! I've just been looking at the specs on FLO.
  9. Excellent points. On the question of getting ones head around mount control etc it seems to me that there is more information and help out there on't internet about ASCOM etc in Windows than there is for INDI etc on a Mac. Type telescope control ASCOM or similar into Google and it'll come back with loads of quite simple websites explaining how to do it, what to download etc. Then there's Chris Shilito's wonderfully clear YouTube videos. But I really struggled trying to get a handle on how to do mount control with a Mac. It was obvious that people did, but how seemed impenetrably difficult. And then a kind soul on Cloudy Nights said just install KStars because it comes with all the EKOS/INDI software included plus a lot of links to what to download and I was away.
  10. @Rusted Could it be that it's PHD that's not working for you rather than ASCOM?
  11. One of the confused here! In my defence I'd say it's confusing because it really is confusing. Thankfully for the terminally confused, once one has waded through installing all the ASCOM, EQMOD, EQASCOM gubbins it then paddles away seamlessly (hopefully) beneath the Cartes du Ciel, PHD2 etc etc software that one actually uses to control things with. I must say it took me a while to get my head around it all. The planetarium application KStars comes bundled with EKOS and INDI. This gives them a more integrated feel perhaps but one is aware that they are in fact independent things. I'm no expert though. I stumble along (just about) using the top-level apps to do my astronomy rather than fully understand what's going on underneath.
  12. Yeah, Lovely that. The galaxy almost has texture the way it stands out. Personally I think you've got the colour about right. You could make the blues slightly bluer. But I'm not so keen on the bright fluorescent blues that others prefer. I think those look unnatural. (Though what is? ) It might look better framed along the diagonal. I made the same 'error' myself in the last M31 I did and cursed that I had. Did you use a mono 1600 or is this the colour version? Maybe you said somewhere and I missed it.
  13. Yes. It does. My problems were more to do with device disconnections and computer lock ups. That might have been down to the fact that I run Windows 7 as a virtual machine on my MacBook. So recently I have been trialling KStars/EKOS/INDI in my MacBook OS. I have found it to be far more stable, and easier to recover from when it does fall over. I'm not suggesting it is inherently more stable. Just more stable than ASCOM was in the way I was using it. Now that I'm in a position to compare the two control applications I can say there are certain features I like in both. I like the plate solving and polar alignment procedures in KStars/EKOS which are not available (I think) by default in ASCOM. Having said that ASCOM's visual method for polar aligning is good too, and certainly adequate for guided imaging. I also like the fact that ASCOM allows for the use of a gamepad to adjust the mount when standing at the scope looking through the eyepiece. This makes it very much easier to use ASCOM for visual astronomy. There are ways of doing this with KStars/EKOS but they're no where near as convenient.
  14. Ah! That explains my problems. Drool ... drool ... drool ... drool ...
  15. Interesting to read all this as I have recently started using KStars + EKOS. I've not had this problem, but it's useful to know what might work if I do. When starting or restarting alignment I was never sure whether to click Clear Model or Purge mount configuration. The latter sounded a bit drastic so thus far I clicked Clear Model because that sounded most like the right action. What do each do and what's the difference?
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