alacant

Hi Perhaps try an all usb3 hub first? Cheers

Hi. Yeah. You best me to it:) Maybe post -a link to- your image? Then we'll be able to answer more accurately. A quick try on faint galaxies isn't really possible; they take hours. With the moon also, even more hours e.g. this was 4 hours with the gibbous moon on Friday. It still needs more. HTH.

Hi everyone Day 21 of lock-down here in Spain so despite the big moon and having had just 3 clear nights in as many weeks, had to have a go at something. Even though the target seemed a fair distance from said satellite, it still managed to throw up a light gradient which needed a big hammer to shift. Not a lot of colour either. Not sure if this is the gradient removal at play. Oh, and to get the field of view, had to use the cheepo AliExpress 0.9 cc which introduces its own idea of colour rendition. Anyway, thanks for looking, stay safe, do please comment and post your DSLR rendering too. I'd be particularly interested in seeing what colour you have. eos700d @ ISO800

Good decision. A well made telescope with a proper focuser:)

OK. In fact anywhere between 70 and 80mm. You should find it superior to the two element ccs. Unfortunately we didn't try it on the 130 as we already had the gpu by then. IIRC, on a 150 f5, it was just over 70mm.

Really? Are you sure you had between 75 and 80mm cc to sensor?

Hi. Probably best not to get too hung up on the protruding tube. It's a design fault which takes all of 20 minutes to fix. In answer to the OP. No contest for me. Of the three, the 130. Cheers and stay safe.

Hi That sounds good. According to the collimation myths, I don't think a star test is the correct way to judge collimation. You have loadsa collimation leeway on your new telescope; get it right with a Cheshire sight tube -preferably one with cross hairs to do the secondary as well- and you're good. Just my €0.02 but hope it saves you some clear sky time:) Cheers

Hi. With DSLRs I find that dark frames introduce more noise. The best combination I've found is to 1. Dither between each light frame. 2. Subtract the stacked master bias from both the light and flat frames. 3. Stack the flat frames and then calibrate each light with the master flat. 4. Register the calibrated light frames. 5. Stack the calibrated light frames using a sigma clipping algorithm. The best software I've found that does this (or whatever you tell it to do) and nothing else is Siril. HTH

Hi and welcone. It should be good for taking video of the moon and planets and you can do that with a simple webcam. You mention DSLR and dedicated camera too. It maybe doable. There's a thread for alt-az imaging here. HTH

Hi. Yes. About 0.9 I think. A nice wide field with the 130 but then essential to cut the focus tube. As @Stub Mandrelmentions, there's a lot of -best ignored- misinformation surrounding it. A good choice if you can't justify the 4 element ccs. Cheers and keep safe.

Hi everyone Lock down day 16 and the sky hasn't helped at all. This was the first target of my short window of clarity before m3 the other night. First time I've given up after a meridian flip rendered the -dslr so I can't rotate it- oag with only one faint star; the seeing wasn't good enough to hold, even at 4s [1]. So this is just the first few frames east. The light gathering capacity of the telescope made up for the lack of frames somewhat but it still needed software bin to rescue the background. Amazed by the detail and faint stuff the 10" yields; I wish I could attribute this to my processing skills! Cheers, thanks for looking and stay safe. eos700d @ ISO800 [1] EDIT. Mental note to self: increasing the guide camera gain would probably have fixed it. DUH...

Hi I'm with @Tommohawk on this. Trying M and adjusting the shutter speed takes the camera's Av exposure metering out of the equation. Cheers

Ah, sorry. Didn't know there were other posts.

Hi You mention guider so I'm assuming you want to photograph deep sky objects. If so, the bare minimum you could probably get away with is one of these with this camera, Your mount will have to be in first rate condition though. HTH

Hi everyone After 2 weeks of cloud and quarentine, it was nice to get all of 2 1/2 hours in between weather fronts earlier today. despite a breeze, the old 250p behaved itself enough to get 29 exposures. Some lost to cloud wisps but anyway, this was the best of them. Almost forgotten how to process; a bit of a mess with that bright star below. Thanks for looking and stay safe. eos700d @ ISO800

Not so much the tube, rather the thumb screws holding the cc to it. Make sure that you tighten them evenly with the t-ring pushed up tight against the collar.

Hi. If the telescope is collimated and the cc has the correct spacing, then the camera to cc assembly looks to be tilted. Make sure it's square in the focuser; sw focusers are renowned for this problem. Cheers and yeah, keep safe.

Hi The logs are accessible and can be uploaded from the help menu. Find the guide log when the calibration failed and post the link here along with details of your guide telescope , mount and camera. Cheers

Hi Camera only, nothing else, no front end. Does INDI now take the frame?

Hi Here is my attempt. I had a go at correcting the coma. Cheers

Hi The basics: Old version but you'll get the idea. HTH

Hi Never used Siril for Avi content but from what you describe, you stacked without first registering the frames. HTH

Hi load - crop - stretch - duplicate - blur - darken - subtract - mask - blur - masked stretch - denoise GIMP HTH

Hi Here are the stretched, darkened-blurred, mask and final images. To lose the gradient, subtract the blur from the stretched, then process it to taste. HTH EDIT: don't forget to mask the stars before you stretch any more;)