alacant

Hi I'm sure you'll be fine. Your colour worries will be a thing of the past and you'll like how quickly you can build up an image expecially if you're used to a smaller refractor. I believe some years ago, f4 reflectors earned themselves a poor reputation; bendy tubes, badly corrected mirrors, focusers, spiders... But it's not years ago any longer. I must admit I was initially put off by all the tales of woe I had read but hey, you use, set up and adjust an f4 just like you would any other Newtonian reflector. One bit of advice: get the 4 element GPU cc, also available re-badged by SW as 'aplanatic'. Corner to corner, even over aps-c. Cheers

Hi. Did you stretch the image after stacking? If you like, post -a link to- the image(s) as it came from DSS. Then we may be able to give specific help. Cheers

Nice images. Now would be a good time to move on. Leave everything as it is and start imaging [1]. Cheers [1] Correction: I see that you already have:)

Hi It doesn't really matter what the guiding looks like. Look at the -I'm guessing good- images as a result. If you're satisfied, that's all that matters. It's all too easy to stare at PHD2 all night and you never move out of the 'testing' phase! From your description of your journey after the break, I'd say you've cracked it. Cheers.

Hi If you have a permanent setup in an observatory, time to do the processing and sufficient clear nights to justify the expense, then do it. Otherwise, use your -very capable- canon. If you decide you like it, then perhaps would be a better time to make a decision. Cheers.

The frames look ok. If you really want to nail it, a bubble level for the camera and a set-square for the laptop screen, but hey...

Hi. You won't be imaging without it, so maybe best to include it during your trial period too. Remove one of the (many!) variables at least;) The focus looks OK to my untrained eye but maybe better to simply use 10x live view on 30s loop directly using the mask. View the spikes directly rather than the APT aid? HTH

Hi No, but take them as soon after (or before) your imaging session to cater for the -albeit rare- occasion where dust settles on the sensor. Camera on tripod. Screen in fixed position (a table? Wall?) at a fixed distance. Set the camera to Av and press the shutter to get the exposure. Adjust the distance or screen brightness to get a minimum of 1s. Switch to M and enter the same exposure. Don't change the aperture or focus. Fire 20 or so frames. DSLR: dark frames will usually introduce more noise. Use bias frames, flat frames and dither between each light frame. HTH

JTOL... Or probably sticking after over adjusting DEC? Try the north adjuster 1/8 turn anticlockwise, south the same clockwise. Try 2s guide exposures. Cheers

Hi Any of the many online converters e.g. this one HTH.

Hi. How about posting -a link to- the stacked image with no processing? Cheers

Hi. If the camera doesn't have one, put a uv-ir filter on the guide telescope. Just change the RA algorithm from hysteresis to PPEC. It should flatten the sine in a few minutes. +1. Absolutely. Get out the allen keys! Rowan supply belts and pulleys to obtain the same ratio belt driven as with the original direct drive. Cheers and HTH

Hi. Remove the guide cable which connects the camera to the mount and connect the mount directly to the computer using this. Leave the camera usb cable connected to the computer. HTH

Correct. A well collimated f5 Newtonian reflector will show an offset. Yours looks perfectly offset to my eye. My f3.9 is even further offset. My f8, dead centre. Don't forget to have a go at coma correction in software. No need to wait until you have saved for the cc. e.g. StarTools does an excellent job if it. I'm sure most other astro software will do it too HTH

I'd leave it and decide whether to get a coma corrector...

Good:)

http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/

https://openphdguiding.org/man-dev/Basic_use.htm

Tremendous image. I needed sunglasses!

It's doable in software, but I'd still recommend a coma corrector for that size of sensor. Astro imaging with a telsecope isn't going to come cheaply I'm afraid but there are loadsa other ways to take good sky images. If you want to try, to achieve focus, you'll have to bring the primary mirror closer to the secondary. Replace the three bolts holding the main mirror with 4cm m5. Get some extra nuts and washers to go with the new bolts. Cheers and HTH.

Hi Looks like it. Despite the bad seeing/cloud/haze, your images should look very good. The guiding certainly was. I'd still recommend EQMOD pulses however. As it is, you're gonna have to calibrate each time you move to a new target and automatic meridian flips will be more tricky. Anyway, well done. Don't forget to post your image too:)

Hi. This one. HTH

Hi Focus the camera on a star. That's it:) You've got a nice mount so it would be better to connect the mount directly to the computer. Of you want to have a go, you need to install INDI Or ASCOM EQMOD. It's much better and easier than connecting the mount via the camera. Cheers

Hi You don't need a coma corrector if you choose a camera with a small sensor. It is also possible to correct coma with modern software should you wish to use a larger sensor. Even so, if you're beginning, I think it best to correct coma in hardware. HTH

Yes:) Hi. No, but first, you must adjust DEC physically at the mount. The worm to gear is either too loose or too tight. Adjust (a 2mm Allen) until you either take up the backlash or release the stiction. Try to use software backlash compensation as a last resort. HTH