alacant

Hi everyone Full moon again so time to find a spot away from the floodlight. This month it's m47 which, starting far too late, we tracked into dangerously horizontal telescope territory finishing just 15º up; most certainly a case of switching off the PHD2 guiding trace;) Anyway, we've another few days of this so do tell us if you have a go. Thanks for looking happy full moon. 700d, about 45 min @ ISO800

Hi What length do you want? 1cm longer than...? Guesssing and JTOL, but how about these? Make the shoulder using two locking nuts and/or locktite and take up any extra using washers? HTH

Hi Not sure, whilst I think the filter you mention has something to do with both long wavelength red and ringing effects, I think its presence would be to minimise the effects rather than enhance them. It certainly looks however like the effect obtained when glass surfaces interact. Could you take a flat frame with the same lens on a newer camera body?

Bright enough to read a newspaper over here. 29 frames of m47 so far. Anyone else? We thought it maybe of interest to compile a list of doables under said conditions. Cheers EDIT: it worked

I'm with @bottletopburly regarding Siril, not least of which that it doesn't cost €silly. It puts you firmly in control. It does exactly what you tell it rather than what it thinks you should be doing. Excellent same day/hour/minute support, almost at the PHD2 support level. Recommended. Siril: free download HTH

Hi Sorry you're having trouble. Easy fix? My guess would be that within 5 minutes of arriving at your local astro society meeting with said hardware, the group's celestron expert -there always is one- will have everything sorted out for you. In the -very- unlikely event he can't, he'll know someone who can. Cheers, don't give up and HTH.

The OP has canon. Cheers

Hi Nice shot. To focus, choose your focal length, set the lens to auto and focus on the moon. Now set the lens to manual and tape the focus ring to prevent it moving. That's it. HTH

Hi. No. I'm afraid not. You'd need this modification to be able to goto and plate solve.

Looks OK. I'd redo the flat frames. Next time out, remove any filters from the imaging train. E.g. set a white screen on your 'phone and place your lens face down on top of it. Use AV to shoot a few frames. HTH

Hi Yes, but not the one you uploaded. That file has been stretched. We need the linear file direct from the stacking software. Cheers

Hi. Sorry, my fault. We also need your light frame stack.

Ok, so you also need the adapter ring. Ridiculously priced at $44 but still a lot cheaper than the moonlight. Cheers

Hi How about keeping the existing base plate? http://www.scopestuff.com/ss_fnc2.htm Cheers

Hi Post -links to- each of the master files you used. Then it makes it easier to find what's wrong. Cheers

Hi No. The focal length -and so the 'magnification'- is fixed, no matter what sensor you use. The main difference you'll see (or not see in this case) is that your webcam will cover less field of view. The objects themselves however will be exactly the same size whether you use your dslr or your webcam. Similarly, objects taken with your 450d would appear exactly the same size as on a 6d, just that the latter will fit in more objects. Cheers and HTH

We don't. 5 minute frames all night. Sensor well over 30º. 4 years so far. No problem. I think that waiting between frames is unnecessary and wastes valuable imaging time. The cooling in such a short time would be minimal and if you're dithering, you're waiting 30 seconds or so anyway. BTW, cooling effect wise, make sure that the screen is hinged out but turned off whilst imaging. HTH

Hi We use a 700d. In the summer months here, ambient is around the same. 4 years now used on more or less a nightly basis with no deterioration. To combat dslr noise -at any temperature- you can dither between frames. HTH

Sorry, I only know Spanish outlets, but isn't this any good? https://www.foto24.com/mando-intervalometro-para-nikon-d3500

Hi No need to use emulators. Siril is native Linux and works perfectly for stacking with many options found only on commercial software. HTH

I wonder if the OP is adjusting the grub screws without first loosening these? ¿?

Hi. No. I don't think the d3500 will work with windows based astro software; nikon only supply connection details for higher end models. It does however work fine on Linux. Do you have to use Windows? HTH

Hi - Slotted nut to take up the worm endfloat (remove the round cover with the two holes to reveal it): make sure it's not too tight. With the clutch tight, rotate dec and with the cover off, loosen the nut until you can feel movement. Now tighten until the enfloat just disappears. - You may now have the worm too close to the brass gear causing it to bind. Slacken the north grub 1/8 of a turn, tighten the south by the same amount. - phd2: do a ga run of at least 2 minutes, then guide somewhere high in the sky for as long as you can bear it. - post the guide log

Hi The 450d dates from 2008. A lot has happened to dslr innards since then. It is noisy and prone to horizontal banding. The newer 18 and 24Mp eos cameras are in a different league and make life a lot easier. That doesn't mean to say that you can't get good results from the 450. Just that you'll have to try that bit harder. That's the spirit. Not sure why you switched cameras. If you're happy with the nikon, stick to that. It should be streets ahead of the 450 for astro stuff. Cheers and HTH.

Hi Maybe your expectations for the 450d are the same as for the nikon? The 450d has bigger pixels and you'll probably find it noisier, but more sensitive. That's certainly the case when comparing our 450d with our 700d. Anyway, I think you've done fine. Vignetting can be corrected in software but I'd still recommend using flat frames in case of sensor irregularities such as dust and scratches. I'd recommend ISO400 for the 450d. Anyway, here's a coloured and coma corrected version. Is that more what you had in mind? Cheers and HTH.