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Endolf

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About Endolf

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  1. Both of these images were taken with the QHY268M and the CFW3-US from stellarmate, so it can be done https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/79492/deep_sky/orion-nebula/M/42/diffuse-nebula/by-endolf https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/79746/deep_sky/flaming-star-nebula/IC/405/diffuse-nebula/by-endolf
  2. I've got this same combo and it's working. I've not done any firmware updates on either device. I have the FW connected to the camera via the 4 pin connector. Have you tried updating stellarmate?, I'm running the QHY guide cam too on one of my rigs, and found that the QHY camera stopped working, a quick update seemed to solve that. I've also got the kstars crashing issue with the 268M (same as the 2600MM for ZWO users), which seems to have been at least reduced in the latest nightly builds (update to the beta stream in stellarmate). The filterwheel on the 4 pin plug doesn't show up a
  3. Indeed, I thought iOptron were supposed to be better than SW....
  4. I've managed to reduce the end play, but not remove it. It's an improvement though. Found there was a grub screw in the pulley. Loosened it up, moved the pulley up the shaft a bit and tightened it back up. Just need some clear skies now....
  5. So I've managed to fix one axis, the video is from before. There are 2 grub screws around the collar that the gear bolts to, and these grip the tube the polar scope runs through. I just tightened them up and now the gear doesn't rotate, so the whole thing is nice and solid. The other axis looks more tricky, as the issue is the shaft that the belt joins to and runs through the clutch can move laterally in it's bearings, this is where the slop is coming from. I might see if the pulley can be moved along the shaft a little. I'm not sure at this stage. I'll take another look t
  6. Especially not in both axis....
  7. Thanks, I've started surgery.... I can confirm that the mesh between the worm and main gear is fine, as is the belt tension. The issue is that the main gear "floats" on the axis. I need to dig more in to the guts, but that gear rotating is exactly where the slop is.
  8. I got the CEM26 at the beginning of the month, the weather being what it is I've only had 1 evening with it. I noticed the guiding (especially in dec) was not great. I took a look at adjusting the backlash yesterday and noticed that both axis have terrible slop in the mesh, I tried adjusting it, but it seems to not have any effect, only making the motor stall if it's too tight (so it's doing something), also, doing it too tight means the clutch won't disengage. The videos attached are *after* I tried to adjust it, but as I mentioned, it's made no difference, this is as bad as it originall
  9. I don't think so unfortunately, the output from the camera (and so the lens cap they provide) is bigger than the output from the spacers, so it can't be used once the filter wheel is on anyway.
  10. I also got the cheap camera lens cap, I've ended up with a small m48 extension with a slip on cap as a replacement. I'm surprised that m48 screw on dust caps aren't a thing in the UK. Can find one in the EU, but thanks to Brexit I have no idea what it would cost me or how long it would take, so having to stick with the bodge for now. I have a dark cupboard under the stairs where I can take my flats and darks, so all is not lost.
  11. I've finally got an image to show. The stars in the corners are not great, back focus was out, I think I've improved it, but the weather isn't looking like I'll be testing any time soon. Just under 5 hours with the QHY268M on the SharpStar 61 EDPH MkII, with the Antlia pro 3nm Ha and SII filter and their 3.5nm OIII.
  12. I've had problems with the BF even *with* a QHY filter wheel, I've removed the 1mm spacer to get the stars in the corner of my SharpStar 61 roughly round, rather than oblong.
  13. I am. Got the Antlia 3nm Ha and SII, there was no stock anywhere of the OIII so got a 3.5nm version. Got the Astronomik deep sky RGB filters and a CLS CCD for a lum.
  14. The scope is a SharpStar 61 EDPH MKII. Not had many sessions with it yet, but it really does seem to produce some nice data I found some really nasty things shooting flats with reflections, I was getting rings in the flats, turned the filter round, problem gone I was using mode 0 for narrowband, the read noise is pretty much gone by 30 gain. Looking at the graphs again, between gain 55 and 60 the better mode changes to mode 1, so I might give that a try, thanks. For broadband I've been trying mode 3 gain 0, but I've only managed 20 minutes of Lum data before the target went behind
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