Peter Drew

I think the problem with using a finder is the limited focusing range. The further the projection range, the more you have to withdraw the eyepiece to refocus the image. 🙂

That doesn't look like the projected image of the Sun to me, at the apparent projection distance I would expect it to look much larger?

All you can do is to keep the sensors as clean as possible. The Barlow actually tends to focus on dust and specks which shows them up more noticeably. 🙂

F7.5 is ideal for a Quark as its incorporated 4.2X Barlow produces the optimum F30. 🙂

What's the visual image like by comparison at the time of imaging? 🙂

The only lunar crater that I've ever sketched, I didn't realise until then just how difficult it was to do and nowhere as good as yours is. 🙂

I think most of us would confirm John Nichol's integrity and optical excellence so I'm surprised that, allegedly, there have been unhappy customers. 🤨

It's at least theoretically possible to see Mercury before first contact if it passes in front of a prominence and you are viewing in Ha and even in the chromosphere layer. You may need a decent aperture and magnification, I will be trying with my 150mm given a chance. 🙂

You can clean most optical components with the usual care, however unless the performance is being degraded, best to leave things alone. On a Ha telescope you would probably only see dust particles on a Barlow or the blocking filter. If using a camera most likely on the sensor window. 🙂

I have a Tal1, the optics are excellent and I doubt whether you would notice any improvement with an "upgraded" diagonal, specially for lowish power deep sky use. A slightly oversize secondary is preferable to an undersize one. For open clusters, which form the bulk of objects nicely seen in a smallish telescope the improved illuminated field will more than offset any reduction in contrast. 🙂

Slight atmospheric haziness can quickly hide surface detail and also make focusing more difficult. Your latest images display obvious Newton rings, a feature of some cameras, this can be mitigated by tilting the camera. Camera tilting adaptors are available. 🙂l

Don't forget, if you are clouded out you can still follow the progress of the transit on GONG Solar or some other streaming sites (Slooh?). 😀

It works ok on our 16" SCT so it should work for you. Position 3 is the best as the tube thickness is less at that point. Is your dew strap long enough to pass over the dovetail bracket? 🙂

Position 3 is the best as the tube thickness is less at that point. Is your dew strap long enough to pass over the dovetail bracket? 🙂

Be careful not to confuse Gregory with "Gregorian". The Gregory is the design with the central area of the inner surface of the corrector forming the secondary. The Gregorian design has the corrector reversed, that is, the convex side facing skywards. This arrangement provides a terrestrially orientated image. 🙂

I agree, nice prom, just had a look myself. Good seeing in the clear patches. 😀

Or exciting even! 😀

I think your best bet would be to carry on practicing with what you already have and currently showing improvement. The "top guys" didn't get there just by purchasing the most expensive cameras. 😀

Yes. Just spotted it myself in Ha. Seeing not too good but an obvious feature worth keeping an eye on. Several half decent proms scattered round the disc, could things be picking up? 🙂

There will be a guaranteed "sunspot" on Nov 11th. 😀

If the OP can enjoy being "dive bombed" by bats then there is little else to fear. I have seen Adders at Kelling. (Sorry Carole!) 😀

When star testing, you are testing the final wavefront which is spherical regardless of the type of optics, hence straight lines when all is good. 🙂

Apparently yes, some users are doing so according to the "Solarchat" forum. I would imagine the visual view would be rather dim. 🙂

Size for size you will get more pleasing results with a refractor, specially if it's a high end apochromat. That's supposing that a small telescope suits your purposes. 🙂

I think that due to you having been away from the hobby for some time and even then with an entry level telescope, the 200pds would give you so much more to look at before getting bogged down in the trials and tribulations of imaging. When you are ready for that challenge a small high quality refractor would serve you well on the mount. 🙂