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About Switch10

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    Milton Keynes, UK
  1. Great image, exceptional clarity on the surface details. Nice job.
  2. Hi, this image was taken last night and is a composite of the best 600 frames of around 2100. Processed in registax and gimp to bring out sharpness and contrast. Shot through a f5 200mm reflector using an olympus camera. Hope you enjoy!
  3. Thanks chaps - tried PA aligning last night rotating the RA axis so 0 was as the top (just so i was sure where to position Polaris) and it tracked nicely.
  4. That's not a bad shout. I do a similar thing with some masking tape on the dovetail to mark where I should lock in the OTA on the mount so i know it will be balanced.
  5. Thanks Ivor - will try that way next time I'm out. I agree it seems odd as to why they wouldn't just align the clockface reticule upright in the first place. It's an extra thing to fumble about in the dark with.
  6. Hey everyone, i know this is a question that has probably been asked a million times but i need some help with it. When my scope is in the home position with DEC axis at 0° and perpendicular to the RA axis, the clockface reticule in the polarscope is twisted clockwise 2 hours too far i.e. showing 12oclock where 2oclock would be on an upright clockface and 6 oclock where 8oclock would normally be. My question is where should i position polaris using its hour angle for my long/lat/time to get proper PA? This is causing my grief as take this example- say i use my current clockface where 12 oclock is where 2oclock should be, if polaris hour angle was 8oclock say, I'd positon it at 8oclock on the clock face. If i rotated my RA axis so that 12oclock was at the 'top' and 6oclock at the 'bottom', that same alignment of 8oclock on the twisted reticule would mean polaris would be at 10oclock on the upright clockface - a difference of 2 hours. Should i position polaris using an upright clockface (i.e. rotating my RA axis slightly so 12 is at the top) or position it on the wonky clockface where 12 is at 2? I have already calibrated my polarscope so that objects stay centre if you rotate the RA axis. Hope someone can shed some light on this, thanks.
  7. No i didn't know those were a thing, thanks for sharing! I'd seen metal cased solar filters but those were pushing the 100 quid mark. Might consider getting one if the sun livens up and after my handmade filter undoubtedly falls apart.
  8. Agree with the others for using the moon if you can as it's a bright, easy target. I then usually fine tune mine using a star like Vega to get it spot on. Have to do this each obseving session as i always end up knocking it when carrying it outside...
  9. It's a 200pds but had to make the filter 6" as single a4 film didn't cover the opening and i didn't want to fork out another 20 quid for an extra sheet...
  10. A solid looking filter that. Mine looks okay from the front but was a dogs dinner at the back! It was safe at least
  11. Same here although today I learned my craft skills are woeful
  12. Frustratingly the sun is shining again here low in the south-west with only a few clouds but I've already packed the scope away and it was just too cold to stand out any longer (as much as I'd like a few more pics!).
  13. Managed a few pics today before the clouds set in. This was the first transit I've observed so was really interesting!
  14. Quick update. Managed a few hours outside tonight for the first time with my new SW 200PDS on the HEQ5. Took a few attempts to align the mount using the 2 star alignment function but after a few tries, the tracking and slewing was spot on from the SynScan so not so worried now as I was initially in the original post. Couldn't check it against any DSOs though due to the gibbous moon lighting up most of the sky in my FOV but managed a few double stars and open clusters. Thanks all for the advice.
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