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Peter Drew

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Everything posted by Peter Drew

  1. Interesting design. What stops the rolling roof from lifting in wind whilst open or rolling? Not obvious from the photos.
  2. No luck here despite our considerable preparation. A couple of gaps were so transient there wasn't time to even focus properly. Fortunately an internet live stream entertained the visitors.
  3. A binoviewer halves the light from a single telescope although this is mitigated a bit by having a signal to both eyes. A binoscope provides a full aperture to both eyes and the general perception is of 1.4x brightness enhancement.
  4. I feel adequate as I have 150mm, 200mm and 300mm reflecting binoscopes already. Looking forward though to how this new one develops.
  5. I will have a C8, 150 SW refractor and 100mm Tal refractor with full aperture Baader white light filters and 150mm and 60mm Ha refractors ready for any gaps in the cloud.
  6. You can follow it on GONG solar if you have access to it.
  7. I have a pair of 20mm eyepieces of the same design and period. I use them on my 300mm reflecting binoscope giving 50x. The centre definition is excellent but falls away rapidly towards the edge, much less noticeable with binocular vision. The 84 degree apparent field is largely due to opening the field stop to the maximum possible. They seem to need more IN focus than my other eyepieces. One of them is branded "Fullerscopes" and the other "Mirador".
  8. I think the problem with using a finder is the limited focusing range. The further the projection range, the more you have to withdraw the eyepiece to refocus the image.
  9. That doesn't look like the projected image of the Sun to me, at the apparent projection distance I would expect it to look much larger?
  10. All you can do is to keep the sensors as clean as possible. The Barlow actually tends to focus on dust and specks which shows them up more noticeably.
  11. F7.5 is ideal for a Quark as its incorporated 4.2X Barlow produces the optimum F30.
  12. What's the visual image like by comparison at the time of imaging?
  13. The only lunar crater that I've ever sketched, I didn't realise until then just how difficult it was to do and nowhere as good as yours is.
  14. I think most of us would confirm John Nichol's integrity and optical excellence so I'm surprised that, allegedly, there have been unhappy customers.
  15. It's at least theoretically possible to see Mercury before first contact if it passes in front of a prominence and you are viewing in Ha and even in the chromosphere layer. You may need a decent aperture and magnification, I will be trying with my 150mm given a chance.
  16. You can clean most optical components with the usual care, however unless the performance is being degraded, best to leave things alone. On a Ha telescope you would probably only see dust particles on a Barlow or the blocking filter. If using a camera most likely on the sensor window.
  17. I have a Tal1, the optics are excellent and I doubt whether you would notice any improvement with an "upgraded" diagonal, specially for lowish power deep sky use. A slightly oversize secondary is preferable to an undersize one. For open clusters, which form the bulk of objects nicely seen in a smallish telescope the improved illuminated field will more than offset any reduction in contrast.
  18. Slight atmospheric haziness can quickly hide surface detail and also make focusing more difficult. Your latest images display obvious Newton rings, a feature of some cameras, this can be mitigated by tilting the camera. Camera tilting adaptors are available. l
  19. Don't forget, if you are clouded out you can still follow the progress of the transit on GONG Solar or some other streaming sites (Slooh?).
  20. It works ok on our 16" SCT so it should work for you. Position 3 is the best as the tube thickness is less at that point. Is your dew strap long enough to pass over the dovetail bracket?
  21. Position 3 is the best as the tube thickness is less at that point. Is your dew strap long enough to pass over the dovetail bracket?
  22. Be careful not to confuse Gregory with "Gregorian". The Gregory is the design with the central area of the inner surface of the corrector forming the secondary. The Gregorian design has the corrector reversed, that is, the convex side facing skywards. This arrangement provides a terrestrially orientated image.
  23. I agree, nice prom, just had a look myself. Good seeing in the clear patches.
  24. I think your best bet would be to carry on practicing with what you already have and currently showing improvement. The "top guys" didn't get there just by purchasing the most expensive cameras.
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