Jump to content



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

663 Excellent


About gooseholla

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Astronomy, organ playing, music
  • Location
    Chelmsford, Essex

Recent Profile Visitors

7,680 profile views
  1. Today I did a couple of bits on the scope. Did my best to get the pole blocks to attach to the mirror box at the same angles. A couple of them need re-jigging as the screws aren't holding it right, so will take them off one day and rescrew them. The pole heights are all roughly the same - maybe a mm or two out across them. Also finished painting the inside of the rocker box. It is done varnish and paint wise, just needs minor sanding here and there. The UTA has had a couple of coats of varnish that will be ready this week for all the hardware to reattach to. Then it is
  2. This evening I have added the piece of wood across the back of the rocker box to finish it off. Sanded it and put the first layer of varnish on. Tomorrow I plan to sand the UTA and varnish that for the first time. Tuesday I plan to get two more coats of varnish on the UTA, put the teflon altitude bearings on, finish the varnish on the rocker box and then rebuild the clamps for the truss poles to attach to. John
  3. Today I did a couple of jobs. Cut out the UTA clamps so that I can sand and finish the UTA tomorrow. They are crude but work - same system as on version 1 of the scope. Two semicircles mate together and a cam lever locks them into place. They are made from Ash, 20mm and 10mm thick. Deceptively simple to make... just take a hole saw the size you want, and then butt up the wood to the central drill part. Now clamp the wood down and drill. You'll get a nice semicircle with no drill holes in, and no cutting required to make them all the same. I will be remaking the part attached to the poles now
  4. So today the laminate cut by mapstar turned up so I installed it straight away! Looks great and will hopefully work very well!
  5. Hi. Thanks for all the kind words people. Today I played around with the split blocks. Wasnt happy with a couple so rebuilt them. Basic way of doing them cut on table saw drill hole etc. No need to show how the book does and it pretty obvious. Did use a scrap and clamp to keep my hands away when cutting the slots for the clamping part though. Now they are being varnised. They are not perfect but they sit under the scope shroud anyway and well they may well split in the near future anyway! I have seen some parts which hold 32mm pole for another reason (not lights!)
  6. Today I played about with the split blocks. The first one went wrong - which is pretty standard I'd say for me, but I know what to do now. Second one worked great. Barely have to move it at all for it to securely hold the pole. Before hand you had to wind the knob quite a way for it to clamp, so hopefully these won't split! John
  7. Today was an interesting day. I initially wasn't going to do any work but then decided to heat shrink the UTA poles. Eight hours later a lot more problems arose and have hopefully been sorted! No matter how carefully you measure and cut the heat shrink and how straight you think you are, well, it isn't ever truly perfect! But they do the job - stop my hands getting cold when moving the telescope! I took the opportunity to flip the poles and drill new mounting holes for the spider so that it doesn't need such long collimation bolts. I drilled the new spider holes using a simple hole throug
  8. Oh I ordered some plastic for the uta. the interior isn't as matt (in fact probably nearly as shiny as the outer part!) compared to the kydex I had, but I will probably flock it anyway. £12 posted for a sheet. Cheers for putting me on to it! Hi thanks Nigel. Damian is supplying me with some 'correct' stuff! I did use any old B + Q laminate on my current rocker but it didn't feel too great and was definitely jerky to get going.
  9. Thanks Damian. I had a template cut to place the bearings. I placed it on both sides and clamped and drilled the holes. However, I think because the clearance holes for the screws were 8mm and I drilled 7mm holes for them to wind into in the mirror box, the drill didn't line up quite right leaving a slight discrepancy. I was toying with taking it off one side, putting dowels in the holes and re-drilling, but to my mind the easiest way is just to shim the teflon on one side - lest I make it worse! John
  10. Hi all So did a bit of work on my scope yesterday and today. Found problem with the bearings one was mounted 5mm higher than other! Still out by mm or two but i will shim the teflon pad on that side. Rocker box is coming along. Sides are glued and the front board. Just got to mount scope in it when dry to determine height of back piece of wood. Ground board has been cut and has feet installed. Gluing up some plywood for the sit blocks now. Hopefully make some later today or weekend. still need some options for laminate please as well as answers to my questions in pre
  11. Thanks Damian. A few questions for people to hopefully answer: 1. What laminate for the rocker box bottom. I just used some offcuts of random b + q laminate last time arranged in a kind of circle. It never really worked great. I know 'ebony star' is what is suggested, and know it isn't easy or cheap to find. Has anyone found a suitable other? 2. Kydex - not cheap or easy to find again. I was looking at 1.5mm birch ply, or even other plastics. Again, anyone suggest an alternative that works? 3. I just cable tied my telrad to a pole last time but even when tight it moves pretty fr
  12. I went five years ago and discovered I hated camping, and spent most of the time seeing family on the other side of Norfolk. Did no observing, but can't fault the site, people or the darkness during this event! Really worth it, but alas, probaby not for me to try again. John
  13. I visited telescope house when they had a shop down near East Grinstead. After they were taken over they seemed to become a bit 'rubbish' so I shopped elsewhere. My last purchases have come from Germany as it was cheaper, even with shipping, than anywhere in UK. Sad really, as I didn't mind going to the shop and paying for stuff when it was open, as you could chat and see stuff. John
  14. This is what it looks like at the moment, taken before the rebuild. So to do list: - Split blocks to rebuild - Build new UTA clamp system - Tailgate and flotation system - Glue rocker together, find laminate to install on to it - Find new material for wrapping the UTA in as a baffle - Sand and varnish all the bits
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.