Waldemar

I agree, it really looks like that. Condensation could be the cause of that... NanoProtech Electric: http://www.nanoprotech.co/ works very well to prevent that kind of problems. I use it on all electrical stuff, electronic boards as well as connectors.

Good stuff costs...

I use the Celestron LiFePO4 7 as well. Works great for not too much equipment as soon as dedicated camera's and/or laptops get involved, you better choose the 17 Amp version.

That is why a remote set-up, even for a few meters, is ideal. On top of that you could stay in the warmth of the house, and let the equipment have it's private thing going on...

just have the belt run at the other side of the tension wheel, or choose a shorter belt

Hi, Maybe you can find a HEQ 5 on the Dutch site: www.te-les-koop.nl I see them come by regularly... If you find one and the seller does not want to ship to Portugal, I would not mind helping you out.

Do you stretch the images? Maybe what you want is there but not visible on your comp, yet...

I forgot to mention that with the Samyang lens you can not use optical devices to change the apparent focal length, like with the telescopes, meaning reducers or powermates, which will give you more options, depending on your preferences. It will also be more hassle to use dedicated cameras with the Samyang.

And... the Samyang can be used for other imaging adventures then astro, too.... The Samyang seems to work very well at F2, so in comparison with F5,9 of the WO ZenitStar, the exposure times when using the Samyang are 9 times shorter than with the WO. For widefield DSO imaging that is an ideal lens. For planetary imaging you will be better off with the other two.

Besides all of that, you will need a lot of patience and perseverance and a book called 'Making Every Photon Count' by Steve Richards. And not to forget deep pockets or good saving ability, because you will want to get better equipment after initial results... Not trying to discourage you, but a warning is in place... Imaging is not as easy as it seems! Before investing in a telescope and more optical equipment, maybe just use your Nikkon with standard lens on a second hand mount to get started, to check if the bug will bite you...

This one is made with a single stack Lunt LSF 75 Ha filter, two years ago. AS mentioned before with white light filters or solar wedges, there is nothing to see at the moment

To be honest, Julian, I would not want to trade my DDM85 for one of those new ones… nor any other mount for that matter.

I wondered about the price of that one, Dave... I asked about this DDM100 on the ASA forum, but nobody seems to own one, yet. I am very happy with my DDM85A and so are you I guess, so no need to spend even more....

Not hindered by knowledge, everything looks simple.... Maybe you should educate yourself a bit before jumping to conclusions...

PowerMates will absolutely work for you... I don't know where you live in Holland, Marcel, but maybe you can come over and try... I live in the south not too far from Heusden If interested you can pm me

12 pix randomly in PHD seem to be the ideal dithering. If set in both APT as well as PHD that may be counter productive.

I notice some spherical aberration on the left side of the image. Since it is predominantly on the left side, I would think this is a tilt issue, probably caused by the weight of the camera. If you use a nosepiece for the camera, you may want to try a threaded connection instead. B.R.

WD-40 is basically not a grease or oil, but a water repellant. SuperLube is fantastic, contains PTFE and works in a wide temperature range No PTFE in WD-40 or white lithium grease...

There should even be three tiny grub screws to fasten that ring which purpose is to get the right camera angle... With a picture, things would be a lot clearer, though.

Price & quality for all tools are synonymous ... Cheaper versions do not fit very well and kill the bolts & nuts they are used on as well as the tools themselves. Good brands are Snap-on, Hazet and Belzer for example. Tools from home depot shops are best avoided.

That depends on the used voltage... for example: V= 12,5 ; needed max. power 20 Watts Current needed: W : V = 1. 6 A Ohms Law: R = U/I R= ohms; U = Volts; I = Amperes. So R = 12,5 : 1,6 = ± 7,8 Ohms You will need 330 : 7,8 = 42 x 330 Ohm resistors in parallel This is not critical, because you are able to dimm the power. 20 Watts will be enough to get rid of the dew

Just take 'm out would work as well... the 4 M5 screws are strong enough,

I think it is the M6 screws that are in the way, not the two screws next to them. The M6 screws stick out and prevent the dovetail to go in deep enough. A picture from the side would explain everything...

You're welcome You will have to try that I don't use APT, so I do not know. Sorry

I am not familiar with this specific autofocuser, but normally you will need a program like FocusMax. Version 3.8 is freeware, but Version 4 needs to be payed for. If you can not find the free version of FocusMax 3.8.20, (it is not supported anymore), pm me and I will send send it to you so you can see what it is about.