Waldemar

Maybe just go to a hardware shop and let them tell you what it is and sell you a couple of bolts. Sawing a bit off is easier then make them longer...

Wow... those Brittons... They have to be different, don't they...

You will encounter M5 and the 3/8 sizes as well in the near future...

Buy once, cry once... when the crying of the high prices is over, a big smile will lighten up your face!

Being a tech freak, I have an assortment of bolts and nuts of most sizes and types at hand. Very handy, but sometimes I have to go to a hardware store, too... Amazone is not specialized in anything, just an online supermarket. If stargazing or -imaging is your hobby, you better be prepared to get confronted with technical issues that may cause you some headache...

Off topic, but apparently in electro technical trades the nice metric system is replaced by AWG American Wire Gauge... Totally crazy if you ask me and very confusing... just like the above!

I would rather deal with dew then with a nagging wife...

Hi Ian, Yes, it is a 3,5 mm stereo jack.

Staying away from it was a good decision!

Again ++ for TeleGizmo's 365 cover. Works very well, does not trap condensation if you leave the bottom open. I use skiboot heaters to keep everything just above dew point. No breakable bulbs to avoid the chance of burning things. Doing this for years, never had a problem

deleted FF distance to sensor.docx

Hi Asim, Camera and rotator take 19mm. The coma corrector needs 55. That leaves 39mm to bridge. This: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-varilock-46-lockable-t-2-extensiontube-29-46mm-with-spanner-tool-(t-2-part-25v).html will solve your problems.

That is kind of mysterious ... Maybe use the scope's focuser just to see if you can get a star focused on your guider. If so, you will know that the backfocus distance of the main camera and the guider are not well adjusted, so check how much you have to go in or out and get the right extension ring for the guider to compensate for that.

no visible stars most of the time means no good focus... increasing time maybe, but 2 seconds should be enough. Does your Omegon OAG have a guider camera position rotation option?

Attach everything, guidecamera and main camera; focus main camera first with the scope's focuser. Then without touching the scope's focuser anymore, focus the guide camera by moving it in or out the OAG until focused. In fact very simple and easy as long as you do not try to focus the guide camera with the scope's focuser... only with moving it in or out the OAG. If using your QHY camera you will need a laptop or PC with an autoguider you can work without a computer

The iEQ45Pro is a very nice grab&Go mount as well... Put an OAG and an autoguider like Lacerta on your Tak, Nikon on it and you can go anywhere... Just need a nice battery like a LiFePO4 ... Do not sell, just buy some more stuff so you can use that Takahashi!

A simple ROR set up does not have to be very expensive. I am building a ROR observatory behind my garage and make a door from my garage to the obsy, so it will be reasonably secure.

construct a safe place for your gear in your own house, so you can use it whenever you are there and do not have to travel 200 km first to your father's house

In fact your 2 computer USB ports are on an internal hub already. The best way to go at this, is to get a 12 volt powered USB hub and a power hub mounted on top of your telescope. So you will only have 1 USB and 1 power cable coming down from the mount. In that way there won't be cable clutter or drag. edit: StarTech has a very good 12V USB hub

Almost anybody with a normal neck and back has the same problem at your latitude ... Your best option is a PoleMaster or iPolar. No, they are not cheap, but neck surgery is more expensive and painful!!

Best advice? Buy yourself some books like these: http://astronomyonline.info/5-best-astrophotography-books/ and educate yourself

alignment marks are there for a reason... optics is a very specific science and quite complicated.

Merlin is spot on, of course... That bracket with handle ( seem to be parts of a photographic tripod) do not belong there. They are poorly attached to what is called a Vixen style dovetail. Now you need a equatorial or Alt/Az mount with a Vixen style dovetail saddle to attached it to and you are good to go.

Another problem might be that you pinched the objective, got it mounted a bit too tight

Hi Andoo, Is this what you need? Doublet lens volgorde.docx I hope it will help. BR, Waldemar