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About Waldemar

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    Proto Star
  • Birthday 25/05/49

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    DSO imaging, nature, all kinds of technical disciplines, speedskating
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  1. A 60 mm catches 44% more light then a 50 mm aperture... that says it all.
  2. If thinking of a really good USB hub, this one: could be your choice. It is a USB3 hub with 12V powersource, so it fits in very well with other equipment when using a 12V power hub. from the mount to your pc a Silex DS600 USB-Ethernet converter: is a great choice as well. It connects to your ethernet connection on the PC or laptop and can handle 100 meters between converter and computer For USB cables look for USB3 cables, for they are made to be able to cope with far higher transfer rates, hence better materials are used. Always get double shielded ones with gold plated connectors and as short as possible. Mount USB hub, Silex and powerhub on your scope with Velcro on a dovetail, so will only have two cables goping down: 12V primary cable and a CAT6 cable. Connect and dry-run everything inside during daytime first, so you do not have to fiddle around outside in the dark. Hope this will help a little. This is the way I am doing it for many years and it works flawless.
  3. Like I said before: Check out the iOptron iEQ45Pro....
  4. Maybe iOptron would be a good choice. The iEQ45Pro is a very nice mount, worth checking out...
  5. I have seen it in reality... absolutely not the same, but I think it is not in production anymore. Replaced by the 8
  6. There has been an EQ7: No idea if they are still available, though...
  7. Hi Horwig, you're welcome, no apologies needed.
  8. brown-outs.... I use W10, but I thought that was Ctrl and Shift with W7 b.t.w., I think W10 is far better then W7....
  9. Hi Kirkster, We do not have a lot of clear nights either... I found that commercial USB cables are the cause of many problems. Since they are available, I only use high quality USB 3 cables, they are a lot better. Because of the higher transfer rates, better materials are used and with the real good ones even OFC copper is used. The powercables I use are all shielded as well to prevent interference and induction. I only use powerplugs with metal jackets and of course make the cables myself on the right length. I even use separate power supplies for different applications. 1 only for the mount , 1 only for the camera and another one for the focuser and dew-protection. In that way I prevent powerdips, which may cause a problem. NanoProtech Electric and PTFE grease and oil are some of my favorite products. This all may seem a bit over the top, but problems are mostly gone and everything is neat and tidy. No cable clutter or spaghetti either. All these things can be done on cloudy nights... Dry runs as well!
  10. @MartinB Thank you for your input Martin, much appreciated and never too late! The AO unit I am talking about is the SX-AO-LF, LF standing for Large Frame: With it's 60 mm window it should be ok for a full frame size sensor. I do have a LodeStar 2X which is very fast indeed... I do not worry about my mount. The ASA has no PE or backlash and is an absolute champion for unguided imaging. What I want to achieve with the AO unit is beating the seeing, trying to compensate for atmospheric disturbances, in order to get sharper images. I know I can never get at the Hubble level, but I want to get as close as I can. Since we have no complete darkness yet, I will have to wait a while with experimenting, but your information makes me feel positive about the outcome. I do not worry about the wiring, I got some nice solutions for that and my ASA DDM has cabling through the mount. My ASUS laptop has an i7 6700 processor with 1 TB of SSD and 16 Gb RAM and is VERY fast, so basically everything is set to try to get the best out of it. @kirkster501 Through the last 40 some years I found that having astro photography as a hobby, you have to be willing and able to encounter and resolve problems from different magnitudes and technical disciplines. To me that has always been the challenging part of this hobby... I am a problemsolver by heart and never give up. On top of that I am a perfectionist but not always proud of that... I am often a pain in the neck for myself and the people I love...
  11. That is a serious battery... and yes it will serve you well, but it will be heavy... Will last for about 10 hours with the equipment you mentioned. Yep, that is the ticket I am talking about... roundtrip of course, I will bring all the parts for you... If I can stay and help you out for a while I will even pay for the battery... Every electronic store has the RCA connectors on stock as well as the power connectors 5,5/2,1. Use female frame connectors and male cable connectors. The cables for the equipment could all be same type like single core shielded cable, with the core being the plus and the shielding the minus. core 0,5 - 0,75 mm² If you are making a power hub, choose a thicker cable of the same type for the main connection to the battery like 2,5 mm² core. Inside the powerhub casing you can use 1-1.5 mm² single wire to make the connections. Do not use cigarette lighter plugs they really s..., I do not understand that so many brands use this type of connector to power their mounts and/or other equipment. It would be smart to use fuses in the powerhub, so your equipment will be protected. On the battery side I would use Neutrik power connectors I will make some pictures and send them, that makes things easier I guess.
  12. Take into consideration that your laptop will use at least another 6A. So yout total power consumption will be about 10A Your 20 Ah battery will not even last you 2 hours, because the voltage will drop below cut off point before that. I would look for a 100Ak deepcycle battery, or a very expensive LiFePO4. (light weight, flat discharging curve, very durable) Hooking up your equipment is easy, most often used types are the powerconnectors with 5,5 mm outside (-) contact and a 2,1 mm central pin (+) contact. If you have soldering skills you can buy them loose and make your own cables to the length you need. Keep in mind that as an average every 0,1 mm2 can handle ±1 A max. So, for your camera cooling (4A) you need 2 x 0,5 mm cable. I prefer to use the shielded type of cable, to prevent interferences with other leads like USB. The best would be to make a powerhub, where you can connect all the needed cables and go down to the battery with only one. RCA connectors like the ones used on dewheaters are great and provide a nice contact area. If you really predominantly in the right side of your brain, being the non-technical part, but able to find creative solutions, you may have a technical friend who might want to work with you and make a powerhub and cables... I would not mind doing it for you if you buy me a ticket....
  13. That is a nice solution, Dave! I had not seen those before, or did you make it yourself?
  14. I have been searching for the camera you are talking about as long as I can remember.... I am almost 70 years old and in astronomy since the early 80's In the mean time I bought a SBIG STF8300, a SX TRIUS 36 (mono) and an ATIK 4120EX (OSC) for DSO, an ASI 174 MMcool for sun and moon, a LodeStar for guiding and a Canon 40D for nature photography. Not to talk about the ones I owned and sold again... So, I've never been able to find it. If you do, please let me know.