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About Waldemar

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    Proto Star
  • Birthday 25/05/49

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    DSO imaging, nature, all kinds of technical disciplines, speedskating
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  1. Normally you do not use a focuser for the guide cam. Just achieve focus with spacers. Will never change focus again with a specific camera combination, so spacers will do and are a lot cheaper...
  2. ASI 1600 has a back focus of 6,5 mm, your flattener/reducer ± 56mm, so ± 49 left for the filterwheel and spacer. The filterwheel is 20 mm thick, so ± 29 mm spacer is needed. For the used filters you need to add 1/3 of the thickness to the optical path, so for 3 mm filters you need a 28 mm spacer. An adjustable spacer like Baader's VariLock is absolutely great to experiment with, so you can get the optimum distance.
  3. Hi Christer, Icron Ranger is a very reliable but expensive option. The 2304 is absolutely great: Another very reliable working solution is the Silex DS 600: Both use cat5,6 or 7 cable. The Icron uses two units, one remote and one at the PC or laptop. The 2304 can handle a lot of USB connections all 4 ports can be conncted to USB hubs, but it is only USB2, but can be used with most USB3 products that are backwards compatible with USB2. THe Silex has one remote unit, one USB2 , and one USB3 port. Both can handle one 4-porthub. The price difference is huge... both work well up to 100 meters with cat cable
  4. Why would focus not be achieved with a DSLR? Special adapters for DSLR cameras are available for the HyperStar. The obstruction they cause may be a downer... the problem is that focus is very, very critical due to the steep lightcone at f2. On top of that the flat imaging area is only 25 mm so an APS-c sensor is already over the edge... No problem if cropping, though. Attached a file about tuning and does and don'ts for HyperStar : HyperStar Alignment and Use V3 9-25-15.pdf
  5. That cannot be a filterholder, because the bajonet would not fit the camera anymore if a filter was screwed in, so the only possible explanation is a light trap, I think.
  6. You are very welcome. Problems are there to be solved, I like to lend a hand if I can.
  7. Yes it should, but trying does not hurt. that even should give you more inward travel space. By that I mean that the barlow extends the focal point so you probably will be bale to get in focus without doing weird things with the filterwheel-camera distance. Barlow- filterwheel-camera
  8. The only other option I can think of, would be to use a C-mount/1,25 nosepiece to have the right thread machined on it, to couple the two....
  9. Sorry, I misunderstood. of course you need more inward travel with your focuser, when the wheel is attached. This may mean you will need to change the position of your focuser on your dob... or the main mirror
  10. Are short of outward travel? I would think you would need more inward
  11. It looks like something was done to the camera... what happened? The camera has the C-mount connection, I guess. You could approach Apogee for info about the connection on that filterwheel, so you can find a converter/adapter. Maybe they even can sell you one...
  12. Those are very odd sizes for astronomy equipment... the 25,1 is C-mount I think, but 33,6 ??? Maybe, if you take them to a machine shop, they can give you the right sizes, so you know where you're at.
  13. Hi, Any idea about the thread sizes? It looks like M48 on the wheel and M42 on the cam. Is that true? If it is, you need a converter M42 male to M48 male, like this one:
  14. You can download a trial version and fiddle around with it... that will tell you what you need to know without buying...
  15. Ok Gerry, good to hear! The 55 mm distance for your MPCC may vary due to telescope 'flaws', so if you can try to get closer and further away a little like 0,5 mm and check the difference. May be a surprise! A very nice but expensive program to solve all those kind of issues and more is CCD Inspector from CCD Ware. regards,