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About Waldemar

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    Proto Star

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    DSO imaging, nature, all kinds of technical disciplines, speedskating
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  1. Also with the weights down there will be strain. And not only to the main bearrings, but to the whole construction. A mount is made to have the load balanced, not just on one side. Whatever side that may be.
  2. why would you want to take any riscs with counterweights? Just because you can?? Take them off and be on the safe side! 1/2 a minute more wortk... so what? If it is about keeping balance then just mark the bar.
  3. It is not about the strain on the central bolt, but about the strain on the drivetrain, caused by a massive imbalance. So yes, it would be better to take them off.
  4. Agree with knobby... your brain will not be able to cope with different eyepieces. You should ask for paired eyepieces, to be sure they are the same.
  5. Waldemar

    Lunt LS50 or Solarmax?

    Garryblueboy, thanks for the info on Coronado. I noticed in your signature you own a LS75FHA etalon. Is that one of the unobstructed signature serie? if so, which number is it? CS
  6. Waldemar

    Lunt LS50 or Solarmax?

    As already mentioned a couple of times: aperture is king, also with solar viewing. Comparing a Lunt 50 with a Solarmax 60 is comparing apples and pears. The 60 always wins... The lightgathering power of the 60 is 44% (!) higher , hence the resolution will be a lot better, too. Comparing same aperture Lunt with Coronado, I think Lunt always wins, because they are totally focused on Solar and have always been, while for Meade, the Coronado is an 'extra'.
  7. This would be the ideal replacement... Always fits! No drilling, just attach it in place of the bloc.
  8. 3, 4 or 5 thick bolts, all is ok, as long as it is as rigid as possible. Like I said, leveling is really not important for an equatorial mount. The 'rat-cage' construction, being two plates connected by bolts is prone to resonancy on specific frequencies. No way to tell which frequencies on forehand. Fact is the more rigid the construction, the higher the resonance frequency, the less it will bother you. Keep the bolts or threaded ends or studs as short as possible. that will make a difference Think about this: you do everything to get a nice, heavy, rigid construction to attach your mount and scope to. And then for the last bit everything has to be carried by a few threaded ends... Why all the hassle to make it rigid in the first place if you are going to undermine the whole construction with a few bolts anyway. Welding a piece of thick pipe in between the plates with an opening to get to the centerbolt of the mount would be way better than bolts. Treating the brake disc with an anto corrosion spray like NanoProtec or powder coating them may be a good thing.
  9. The only reason to have some space under the mounting plate would be to attach the mount. Levelling is not an issue, because level is not needed with an EQ mount, so keep it as close together as possible and with more, thicker threads to make it as rigid as possible. Be sure to get the concrete footing below the frostline and use a sort of pyramid or cone shape. Probably more work than you think...
  10. don't try to secure that square piece into a dovetailclamp. That is a recipe for disaster. Replace it with a real dovetail, or screw a dovetail onto that plate.
  11. I use a 365 cover too. Noticed some condensation on the equipment, so emailed the producer. The advice I got is to use a little dehumidifier, heater or desiccant I bought a set of skiboot heaters (17 Watts) and leave the bottom side open. No problems since...
  12. First of all remove the plastic bin liner and only use the breathable cover. Second you only need very little power to keep the temperature under the cover just above dew point. 25-50 watts will be enough to acomplish that, which will be 2-4 Amps... Think about a terrarium or pet place heater. I use skiboot heaters for that same purpose: 17 Watts, but 220 volts... I don't know if 12 V skibootheaters are available. Google may have the answer...
  13. It may get very warm in the trunk, because your exhaust runs right underneath...
  14. Thought of this solution?: http://lymax.com/
  15. Waldemar

    Dust cap

    Just use it all the time, you won't need a dustcap . But a showercap is cheap and works great

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