Waldemar

A chain is a strong as its weakest link... So everything depends on the quality of your scope. Your scope sits in the top quality range I believe, so to get the best out of it, you should use top quality accessories as well. TV PowerMates and Baader BBHS diagonals will get the best out your scope, and you will see the difference. Maybe you can borrow them from a nearby fellow astronomer or a club in the neighborhood to get a taste. I would lent you mines, if you were closer... The PowerMate as well as the BBHS just seem to disappear and that is what you want... Just my 2 €cents

In spite of the fact that the filter is inside the already counted with tray, you will need to add 1/3 of the filter's thickness to the path. So that will be 0,2 mm making 21,2 mm. Don't think those 0,2 mm don't matter because it is so little... it does! You can accomplish this by adding a 0,2 mm shim to the filter tray. This info tells you which way to go if the image is not flat.FF distance to sensor.docx

Astronomik filters are really top class.

Here is another option: Triggertrap - Smartphone powered camera remotes

Bulb mode | long exposures beyond the 30-second mark (eos-magazine.com)

I found that the tiniest bit of SuperLube prevents seizing for a very long time, and it does not run.

Good to hear everything is ok for you!

According to ZWO info the ASIair Pro does NOT support your ASI120MM camera...

Google for a video "how to balance my telescope mount"

balancing is your problem, nothing else

Forgot to mention that EOS adapters come in 2 sizes: T2 (M42) and M48. The latter is best for 2" nosepieces, and assures non vignetting.

+ nosepiece preferably 2" if that fits your focusser

When using IPA you should ware gloves. IPA dissolves skin grease and then leaves a haze on the 'cleaned' surfaces...

Hi Mike, As far as I can see, no adapters for that camera are available... Not even a possibility for ep projection, other than holding the camera against the eyepiece. Maybe a better option is to buy a 2nd hand canon body. They are cheap and available on the 2nd hand market Succes! Waldemar

Rob, sorry, but those three things do not combine with cheap... The cheapest way to get some decent results would be an EQ5 mount, though the sailing effect of your Explorer 130 may ask for a HEQ5. I realize this answer is not what you are waiting for, In order to to use the few opportunities to get images a go-to mount is a 'must' I believe. You do not want to waste your precious time with searching for objects you can't see.. That brings you to the realm of HEQ5-Pro synscan. With tripod that will cost you close to a 1000 new (many 2nd hand available, though)... But you will be able to make stunning images instead of getting frustrated

Hi Ed, There are no dumb questions, just stupid answers... If you choose the right camera with the same or smaller diameter as the central obstruction, only two wires are in the field of view. When tied behind each other the effect is not really visible, especially not when they are a little bended, like bended spider vanes. I would not use a DSRL camera, for they are quite an obstruction.

Don't worry, we all do stupid things. The most stupid thing is to say one doesn't do stupid things...😱

I agree the Baader solution is not cheap , but keep in mind that you will be able to use it on any future telescope with the right adapter.

The Baader clicklock system may work for you: Baader ClickLock 1.25" Adapter with T-2 Thread | First Light Optics Maybe you will need a M43x1 male to T2 male converter to reach focus: Baader M43a x 1 / T-2a Adapter (e.g. for Vixen) (baader-planetarium.com)

I see these kind of remarks frequently on these forums, alas ... whether they are meant as a joke or not, I think they are quite pitiful, deception should always be out of the question. They are condescending... Just be honest, that will bring a lot more joy on all levels.

As many already stated above: do not take any chances with your eyes, stick to the known to be safe brands. Get yourself well educated about the use of any solar filter, being it white light or H-alpha, before using it. But you are already doing that... good for you!

The thing with RO water is that the pH is quite low and thus is acidic. Acidity can damage the metal coatings of your mirror Distilled water is pH neutral so it can not damage the coatings on your mirror. This: What Is The Difference Between Reverse Osmosis Water And Distilled Water? | Drinking Water Base will tell the story.

And please be more than careful with a hammer close to optics...

How filthy is your mirror? the rule of thumb is to not clean it when the dirt is less than 10% of the mirror's surface. Cleaning a mirror is a tricky job and has to be done with great care. Use distilled or even double distilled water, do not use de-ionized water. De-ionized water is water that lacks ions coming from sodium, calcium etc. It still may contain other organic stuff. Distilled water is purer. Double distilled water is super pure and also used for medical purposes. Last flush can be done with Acetone. It dissolves the remaining waterdrops and evaporates very fast and without residue.

i.m.h.o. these two are a non existing combination ...