Waldemar

As been advised many times in this forum, buy the bible: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html It will save you money, time and frustration

These are both very good advices. learn to walk before you try to run....

Yes, Dave is right, the female thread you see on the picture is used for the retaining ring to keep the filter glass in place

I am sorry, Dave, but no I didn't...

Most diagonals have a lightpath of about 4 inches (10 cm) Just get an extension tube of that length and you're done, or of course a Barlow would do the trick too

sick squid for 6 ponds? so six quid… 🤣

Obvious to me is that the Internet makes any smart retailer a lot more careful with his customers, because these issues will be mentioned and go around. To me that is one of the greatest values of the www. At the end this will be in every bodies favor.

In the future you might need other sizes Allan keys… maybe wise to buy a set, they are not too expensive. be aware two types are available... imperial and metric: https://www.amazon.com/imperial-hex-key-set/s?k=imperial+hex+key+set Most of the time these rings use metric sizes.

I think your loyalty is a virtue! Be proud of it!

That is how it hits me, too... Name and shame is a powerful tool!

Two types of thread are used with these adapters: T-2 which is M42 x 0,75 and used for 1,25" nosepieces and M48 also called 2" which is M48 x 0,75 and used for 2" nosepieces. Some Chinese producers cut them M48 x 1 and those will not fit. Maybe you got one of those, I encountered that too some years ago, very frustrating... That may also have happened with the EOS adapter, though I've never seen that. Best way to solve this is to contact a fellow astronomer or club, or a local astronomy store. edit: B.t.w. M-36 x 0,75 is used as well sometimes. Maybe you have a caliper to do some measuring?

I hope this issue will be solved to your satisfaction and Murphy will be send home.

If this is the fourth (!) issue, you really should send it back. Murphy is sitting on it and will not be kicked off... And buy it somewhere else. FLO has a great reputation.

Many kinds of fungi exist, in wet as well as dry circumstances. In fact there are organisms for feeding on almost any substance in any circumstance. Mother Nature tries to keep her House clean... The fungus you talk about is not likely going to attack your equipment. Plant fungi are really totally different and need organic matter to grow on. But of course you should do what your heart and common sense is telling you. Best be on the safe side...

Most of the time ventilation alone is enough to prevent mold, but there needs to be an airflow, a kind of draft so to speak. All fungi hate airflow.

So, that is not power...??? How would you call that then?

For mount and scope I recommend to get a 365 series cover from TeleGizmos and have a dehumidifier or skiboot heaters to keep the temperature above dew point underneath, to prevent condensation. http://www.telegizmos.com/365 sizes and prices page 2.htm

For visual you need power too when using a motorized mount...

Absolutely correct, if your filterwheel sticks out on one side, or a focusmotor there will be a radial imbalance which needs to be corrected, to get rid of irregular imbalances. Not all mounts are equally sensitive to this, though.

Whether these are small or big issues, does not matter. What matters is that you trusted a retailer with your money and he/she gave you a bad deal. Just go back with it and demand a solution for the issue. A trustworthy retailer will solve the problem for you.

Hi Aliam On the left side of the main screen you will see a side bar. Second from above a little blue timer shows. If you push that, a screen opens with time and date settings. There you can click a box to automatically update the time and chart every x seconds

The Canon EOS t-2 adapter is exactly what you need. That has the M48x0.75 that is mentioned in that article you sent. So attach the adapter to your camera and screw on the coma corrector and that should be it.

it should be adjustable… no doubt it is, but I don't own one, so can't tell you. Other people will chime in with more knowledge about this particular scope. Don't dispair!

You could also try a free trial (80 days) of Prism V-10 advanced, which can command several cameras at once. https://www.hyperion-astronomy.com/products/prism-v10-advanced Running different programs for different camera's on a windows based pc should work as well, I would think, but I never tried.

In case other people have a problem with broken parts that are hard to repair Bondic is a new kind of glue that needs to be hardened by UV light like when a dentist fills cavities: https://notaglue.com/ It makes a very solid connection and glues about everything ... I am not in any way affiliated with them, just love the product.