Waldemar

Applications are available to prevent malfunction by high humidity. One solution I use my self for years already with succes is NanoTech Electric spray Besides that dehumidification, ventilation and temperature control are all means to prevent problems. The point is, to stay above the dew point temperature, even with a few degrees will prevent condensation.

...Just a warning: cheap and imaging are 'contradictio in terminis' Maybe the best thing for you to do, is to buy this book: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html It will tell you why some things work and other things do not

Yes that will work, first focus your Canon and then without touching the telescope's focus, focus the guide camera by moving it out until you reach focus. Maybe you will need an extension, depends on the OAG.

No, ASA makes direct drive mounts (and optical systems as well)

For astrophotography the difference in f ratio is very important, especially for the exposure times. For example a Celestron C11 at f/10 needs 10 minutes (600 seconds) for a certain DSO image. The same C-11 with a HyperStar at f/2 will only need 600 : (10:2)² = 600:25 = 24 seconds for the same image, but in this case the image size will be different as well. Note the square in the calculation, which is caused by the fact that the f-ratio is the quotient of focal length and aperture. So the difference is huge and the possibilities of fast scopes are great.

Absolutely true, it makes no sound at all even not when slewing @ 13°/sec. but the high price is not just for being silent...

My iEQ45Pro is very silent as well... maybe because I used PTFE grease on all contact surfaces.

That's how we all feel about this precious part of the internet, Karen!

I would... I treated all my electronics that get into contact with humid circumstances with it. Take the batteries out when you spray, also the rechargeable one from your laptop. No electricity should be available when spraying. The best way to get rid of charge remnants in parts is to press the on/off button a couple of times when the power or batteries are out. Do both sides of the boards as well as all connectors. It is really amazing stuff. Do follow the instructions on the bottle!

Like you said if screwed into one of the extenders, you will ruin your focal distance with the focal reducer, or skip that one in the mean time.

I think you were advised well... patience is a good thing these days. You could image without filter while it is on it's way to you, it is a color camera anyway... If light pollution is in the way, try more shorter subs. Depending on the thickness of the filter, you will need some adjustment shims as well. 1/3 of the filterglass thickness is standard.

Sorry, I crossed Ivor's input, who seems to know more about it then I do...

You will need a 130PDS, for they have a longer backfocus that will work with a DSRL, which has a backfocus of ± 44mm. With the 130P your only option is to shorten the tube, so the distance between main and secondary mirror will be shorter. In fact there is only one way to do that, which is to move the main mirror up. The distance needed will be app. 1½" , but for the exact number you will need to do some measuring, or ask people on this forum that already did it. (you are not the only one...) The second option is to buy a dedicated camera with shorter backfocus...

🤭🤫

Having it collimated and send back, will ruin the collimation anyway.. Cleaning a mirror is not a very difficult job, you just need to be careful: Cleaning solution.docx

Here is a way to protect your mount against wrong polarity mishaps at very low costs You do not need to be a tech wizard to make a simple protection like this: https://provideyourown.com/2012/reverse-polarity-protection-circuits/

Don't forget that these things fry your mount as well if/when not connected correctly...

Do not use simple laquer... Use the right stuff for situations like these: NanoProtech Electric. I am using this for years already without any issue.

off topic... but carp fishing?

The attached file shows the effects of the wrong spacing distance and which way to correct. FF distance to sensor.docx

I would try NanoProtec first before buying a new one. I think you had just a shortcircuit because of moist. May the leads on the board are damaged on the bottom side...Can always buy another one if it does not work and use the NanoProtech as prevention for future mishaps.

Laser may be a nice tool for the one who is using it, but for the rest of us it is light pollution...

That looks to be the one. Be careful with the way it is set up in your picture, because it's not the right way and it is not balanced, so it could fall over and get damaged, which would be a shame. If you want to get rid of it, a boy or girl-scout club would be a great target... Boys or girls who are getting interested in astronomy have no time or money for bad habits

And not to forget the provided voltage is far more stable...

Well, if you can get Venus in the scope, why not center the RDF on Venus, while you're there anyway? The chimney was probably to close, or you did not look through the RDF from the right position.