Jump to content

1564402927_Comet2021Banner.jpg.a8d9e102cd65f969b635e8061096d211.jpg

Bizibilder

Moderators
  • Posts

    16,891
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by Bizibilder

  1. I used to use my ED120APO and ST80 guidescope, cameras etc on an HEQ5 with no issues. I was in an observatory so this may have helped on windy nights.
  2. A couple of active areas on view - third time around for both? AR 2673/2674 then 2683/2682 and now 2686/2685. Seems likely.
  3. If you can, set up a scope on a tripod and find the limits to the area of sky you will want to observe. then build the walls accordingly. Take into acccount the view as well as blocking light sources etc. You may need to move the scope around a bit to find the best solution for your site.
  4. Newton-Tesla or Transwave (usual disclaimers) both specialise in inverters for the smaller lathe market. Their prices and service are both good.
  5. Terrible seeing and an almost "unstackable" set of images!
  6. A daylight Moon - After a regular session photographing the Sun I thought I'd have a go at the Moon too! The moon was high in the sky so it gave a good opportunity. ED120 APO, Canon 1100D, 1/640sec, 100 single frames taken. PIPP was then used to crop the frames followed by AS2! to stack 60 from the 100 taken. Then Lucy-Richardson deconvolution in Astra Image to sharpen. Quite a few gentle iterations of curves in Photoshop to try and get some contrast back, followed by a tiny bit of sharpening. The original colour image has been changed to mono.
  7. You got it! Just snap away and take about 30 or so. Don't forget that you take your flats without adjusting or changing anything in the optical train. I usually take them last thing of an imaging session, it only takes a minute or two.
  8. I use Av mode and the same ISO setting as used for the light frames. If you have a dimmable panel then set it so you get an exposure of around 1/4 - 1/2 a second. If you have too short an exposure you can get shutter artifacts. If your light panel is not dimmable try using a sheet or two of white paper over the panel. Hope that helps.
  9. A clear sky when I got home from work - and one of the last opportunities to get a Solar image on a work day as the Sun is now getting low at that time:
  10. Just enough of a gap to get a disk and one close-up today - I believe AR 2683 is most likely the second time round for 2674. 2682 is still showing some spits and spots of activity that were much larger last time round as 2673.
  11. Today's Sun with a new large AR coming into view- possibly the return of 2673 and all its friends? If it is then we should be in for a good show over the next couple of weeks:
  12. Clear day today! ED120APO, Baader film, Canon 1100D 40/150 single frames stacked, Processed in PIPP, Registax5 and Photoshop including false colouration, Long & Lat grid from "Tilting Sun" freeware:
  13. Finally found a break in today's clouds large enough to get an image! Still very hazy which didn't help:
  14. A tiny gap in the clouds as the Sun dropped over the observatory wall - just enough to get 200 frames and stack 26 to get this:
  15. Oops! Thanks for noticing that I had the date wrong - Sorry to all for that.
  16. Just a small break in the clouds when I got in from work - followed by a thunderstorm!
  17. If your keep your battery indoors when not using it (most of the time with the cloudy nights we've been getting lately ) a layer of insulation will keep it warm for an observing or imaging session. The advantage being that a room temperature (or at least near room temp.) battery will ensure that it performs at its best. Don't forget that the rate of a chemical reaction (which is what a battery does to produce electricity) roughly halves for every 10° drop in temperature - so a battery outdoors at 0°C will only be able to work at 1/4 of its rate (1/2 x 1/2 = 1/4) at 20°C.
  18. It's surprising really but you will often get the best "view" of the Sun early in the morning! The reason being that the Sun has not had time to heat up the atmosphere and thus ruin the seeing. You can see the effect of a warmed atmosphere if you look along a road on a hot summers day and see the distortion often called a heat haze or mirage effect.
  19. An excellent first image and well processed too - well done!
  20. You could have a browse here: http://listoffreeware.com/list-best-free-video-editors/ I have no idea if any of them are any good!!
  21. If you are embedding threaded bar into the pier the easiest way to ensure it is solid is to put a 90° bend in it (you may have to heat it to red to be able to do this - easy enough if you have a blow torch) at the "embedded end" as well as running a few nuts onto it - these act as locks within the concrete. When you have run the nuts on the threaded rod give them a good "bash" with a centre punch - or cold chisel etc - in order to damage the thread so that they cannot move on the thread.
  22. A couple of simple exercises for them: Make a sundial - Try here for a printable version: https://www.blocklayer.com/sundial.aspx Good fun and dead easy to make. Maybe try Googling "If the Moon were only one pixel" to get this: http://joshworth.com/dev/pixelspace/pixelspace_solarsystem.html and only allow scrolling by holding down the "right arrow" on the scrollbar at the bottom of the page!!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.