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Everything posted by Bizibilder

  1. A second clear day in a row! AR 2706 putting on a show:
  2. The Sun with some activity at last! ED 120APO, Canon 1100D/ASI120mm Baader Solar film:
  3. Very nice set - good to see some activity again!
  4. It is very tricky to focus without Sunspots. They tend to be like buses, none for ever then a whole bunch of them! To be fair we are passing through the Solar minimum at the moment so there will be quite a few spotless days. If you look here: http://www.solen.info/solar/ you can see a good daily image of the Sun and use it to see when spots appear(scroll down to get the white light image).
  5. Some Sun!!!!!!!!!!!!! But no spots Usual ED120APO and Canon 1100D - 24/128 frames processed in PIPP, Registax5 and Photoshop:
  6. It depends on what you want to photograph! For long exposure deep sky imaging a driven equatorial mount is pretty much essential and computer control/guiding is just a step further that makes life a lot easier. Goto also helps even if only as a time saver - it can be tricky finding "invisible" objects against a black background . For Solar, Lunar and planetary imaging computer control is not necessary as long as you can keep them in the field of view long enough to capture your images. Even a planet drifting across the field of view of a non-motorised scope can be captured. It just makes things very difficult - but it can be done. Overall an equatorial mount with at least motor drive makes life so much easier!!
  7. Yes - You need to make something to hold the Solar film over the whole lens aparture (or over the whole aparture of a telescope). You could simply tape it in place but that could leave a residue of sticky stuff on the camera . Don't worry if the filter sheet is slightly wrinkly - it will make no difference at all to the image. Whatever you do don't stretch the filter sheet as that could damage it. There are instructions for assembling a filter holder here: Baader Film Please note: If you buy film of ND5 (for visual observing) it will still be perfectly OK for photography. If you but ND 3.8 it will be OK for photography BUT NOT AT ALL FOR VISUAL USE.
  8. Yes you could - make a proper filter holder to ensure that it can't fall off!! (Cardboard engineering is all that is required).
  9. A three pane mosaic and a couple of close-ups. ED120 APO and ASi 120mm mono camera. 200/2000frames for each pane/image. First the 3 pane mosaic: Then the "X" and "V" with a 2.5x Powermate:
  10. Very good images - I do like the occasional enhanced colour Moon, it just proves its not really "plain gray" as so often seen.
  11. I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Huion-Ultra-thin-ADJUSTABLE-Illumination-Lifetime/dp/B00K67LU9W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518988994&sr=8-2&keywords=Huion+light+panel Works very well and it is dimmable.
  12. Is that something new just coming into view?
  13. Quite poor seeing today but a swift stack of 44/128 frames achieved this:
  14. My first Solar image since the end of October! Working from before dawn to after dusk doesn't help but the weekends have been cloudy or the Sun has come out behind the pesky tree that i have to deal with! Enough excuses! Usual ED120 APO and Canon 1100D set up. Baader film 1/1600sec exposures. 100 taken and 31 stacked. It seems I have only missed 12-13 spots in that time and all of those were tiddlers - some consolation I suppose:
  15. I think you may be right when you say lack of contrast - most stackers need some definite "marks" to stack on. When stacking full disc solar images (JPEG's from a DSLR camera) I use PIPP to centre and crop the images and then Registax 5 (not 6) to stack. The trick for such low contrast, featureless images seems to be to use a single large align point and place it so there is a decent amount of border of the disc within the align box - Something like this: I can usually "persuade" it to stack with this technique.
  16. Ignore the capture menu's - they are just preset menu's that you can overwrite if you wish. The parameters in them are of no use as you will have a different set-up/instruments/cameras etc. They do however act as a good "starting point" to get you in the right general direction. The reason they have "filters" is that when you set up with, for example, red, blue,green and "clear" i.e. luminance filters the parameters you need for each are slightly different. You can set up each of your filters and load the settings into the software then as you do your imaging run you can simply click on each one to load the preset parameters as you bring each filter into play. If I am doing an RGB x 9 pane mosaic of the Moon I need 27 resets, three for each pane!! It would be the other sort of pain if I had to adjust manually for each filter/position change. As for ROI - you have set for using the whole chip of the camera. That is fine. If you want to concentrate on a small feature then you can reduce the ROI so that it fits within the chosen area and you are not capturing unwanted data. The main benefit is speed - the smaller the ROI you select the faster the data capture (within the limits of the camera and computer that is).
  17. Start out by making sure that you are on the shortest exposure range. Then set the gain to zero. You can then adjust the exposure until you can see a decent image on the screen. Then look at the histogram and you should find that the maximum value is wavering up and down - Look at the number in brackets on the histogram for a few seconds - what is the maximum value that you can see? It should be flashing up and down with no more than 70% as the maximum value. Adjust the exposure to get the histogram showing this value. If you can't, go to the next higher range of exposures (very unlikely when imaging the Sun!) and try that. If imaging the Moon you may well have to vary the exposure quite a bit depending on the phase of the Moon - the variation in brightness is very noticeable. Assuming you have an image and the histogram is "maxing" at about 65-70% you should be good to start collecting data. There are other ways of getting the image intensity right. Gain is basically an amplifier and you can increase the image brightness by increasing the gain. Try a gain of, say, 10. then turn the exposure down to get the histogram back to where you want it. The downside to this is that gain will increase the signal and the noise - so you get a brighter but noisier image. This is not very noticeable with bright subjects and short exposures but over use of gain can quickly ruin an image - something you may not notice until after you have started processing the final image when it is too late to do anything about it!. I always prefer to use a gain of zero with my own ASI120mm except for planetary imaging when I may push the gain a little. Hope this helps to get you started.
  18. As long as the set-up is at least reasonably balanced the actual parked position won't be putting any undue strain on anything. By "reasonably" I would include a well balanced imaging system with the cameras removed for example. I would suggest both dec axis and scope tube horizontal should give the lowest profile.
  19. M6 bolts have a safe load of around 200kg. Two might be overdoing it!!! Seriously though - the bolt sizes we use, generally M6 to m12, are more than adequate for the loads we subject them to with Astro gear. Stainless won't rust but are expensive. Another issue if you live near the sea is that stainless will corrode in salt spray quite rapidly.
  20. Tonight's Moon between the banks of cloud that were blowing about!
  21. Tonights Moon. 4 panes each 200/2000 frames. ED120APO and ASI120mm mono camera.
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