Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Bizibilder last won the day on February 22 2015

Bizibilder had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4,585 Excellent

About Bizibilder

  • Rank
    Hyper Giant

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Norfolk, UK
  1. They are most certainly NOT the same as standard photographic filters. These foil filters are used for "white light" solar observing and photography - ie they transmit all wavelengths in the visible spectrum. An Ha 7nm filter is NOT the same as a proper Ha solar telescope. Unfortunately a true Ha telescope (or device like the DayStar Quark solar "eyepiece") is a very expensive piece of kit! One safe alternative to the foil filter is the Herschel wedge diagonal - but again this is quite an expensive alternative. (Just an afterthought - there are "Solar Filters" that can be screwed into a normal eyepiece. These used to be sold with cheap telescopes. They are EXTREMELY dangerous!! They will shatter in the heat from the Sun and, should you be looking through the telescope at the time you will be blinded. Don't even think of using one!!)
  2. I would advise you to use the Baader foil of ND5.0. This is quite safe for both visual and photography. The ND 3.8 foil is ONLY suitable for photography and NOT for direct visual observations. You can make a filter holder quite easily from card and strong tape. One sheet of A4 size should make at least two (possibly three or four if you are careful) filters. I keep my own filter in a plastic box with a lid. It is about five years old now and still in excellent condition - I am always careful not to touch the foil and to check the foil is in good condition before EVERY use.
  3. Assuming you mean space around the scope inside an observatory I would suggest 18" (450-500mm) minimum all round. That gives you just about enough room to squeeze yourself past the scope - assuming you are of at least only moderate proportions!! It also allows room for the inevitable additions and extensions to the scope that will happen as you use it.
  4. Yes - try some WD40 or similar to try and get into the joints. Then try using something like this rubber jam-jar opener (less than £2 on the bay of fleas): You may be able to get things moving. If not then try a little heat from a hair dryer (or hot air paint stripper gun but be careful!) When all else fails brute force may be required
  5. The Sun was out and I had time for some imaging today - even better as there is some activity! AR 2741 - 200/4000 frames with the ZWO ASI 120mm mono camera. The seeing was pretty poor!
  6. Should have said - Baader solar film was the only filter used (which by now must be about 5 years old and still going strong!)
  7. First Sun image since last August! Clouds, lack of any sunspot activity and a very busy life at the moment are my excuses! Almost forgotten how to process in addition to Windows complaining about any App that I used (PIPP, Registax5 etc!!) Anyway - stack of 45 from 138 single frames taken with the Canon 1100D and ED 120APO. ISO 100 and 1/4000sec (If I recall correctly).
  8. Today - probably the seeing. It was pants in white light!
  9. The primary of an f/15 SCT is an f/2 mirror. Take that away and replace with the hyperstar/camera and you have an F/2 set-up.
  10. It goes to a Microsoft blog - works for me.
  11. Click here According to this announcement Microsoft will no longer force Windows 10 updates on you when you lest want them. It also looks as if they intend to test updates before springing them on unsuspecting users. A decent response at last to user complaints about windows 10 being a real pain!!
  12. In my observatory there is no door to the "warm room" section - yet it does keep the chill out and cuts any wind down to more or less zero. Once I'm gone the air can circulate throughout the building - there are plenty of gaps around the sliding roof and I have never noticed any condensation inside the observatory. I suggest you simply leave the warm room door open when you are not using it.
  13. A lovely sharp image - you've not lost "the touch"! Just a suggestion - instead of wavelets, try deconvolution. imppg will find it. Have a play - I find it far easier to use than wavelets, and it gives results that are at least as good!
  14. If I recall correctly ('tis a while since I used DSS!) you put all the calibration frames and first set of lights into the first channel and then just the next set of lights into channel 2 etc DSS uses the one set of calibration frames for each channel.
  15. I've been fighting the big mosaic below for over an hour and have finally given up! Simply not enough overlap to get the southern tip to stitch (with several different bits of software) as well as the missed a bit! Same details as above but a 2.5x Powermate used. 14 panes (13 actually ) in the final image. Worth clicking through to full size though:
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.