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Dr_Ju_ju

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Everything posted by Dr_Ju_ju

  1. what about the power/network inlet(s) ?, If water is dripping down the side/underneath, then a daytime temperatures would make the air inside to expand, forcing air out, then on cooling would draw air back in, bringing with it the moisture, which would be heated by the internal electronics etc. which then condenses on the inside of the cooler dome....
  2. If you assembled the system inside, where I would think, there wouldn't be much moisture in the air ?? how did the water get into the dome ? so I'd also check the sealing between the dome & the box... If you are able, I'd be tempted to 3D print a ring to go around the dome base, making a more secure seal....
  3. Have you tried fitting a fan inside the enclosure, to circulate air around the dome, also some small desiccant sachets in side the dome ?
  4. On mine, they are M3 x 10mm, but with a focuser bracket fitted, I increased them to 15 mm
  5. Looks like the problem is at their end, so you'll just have to wait....
  6. If you have a 3D printer, you can find design/ideas on Thingiverse e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:995503
  7. You could go to 70-80% infill, but what pattern overlaps etc. can also have an impact... Have a look at PrusaSlicer (https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/) Personally, I find it's the best one around at the moment & I even have paid-for slicers e.g. Simplify3D....
  8. Also what Slicer are you using ?? & the in-fill you used on the print ?
  9. Have look in the APT help file, but for multiple cameras you need to use/configure "Multi-Camera Operation" which means using different start up options.....
  10. What camera is PHD configured to use in the ZWO\Ascom driver ? it has a switch camera toggle....
  11. For me, for prints that I want to ensure remain in 'shape', I don't use PLA, except for Prusa's Prusament PLA, or better still PETG/ASA/ABS filaments.... have a look at FIlaprint (https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/) I find are reasonably priced & fast shipping etc...
  12. I've had a few of those covers, & I'm sorry to say I wouldn't recommend them long term, as they easily wear-away & leak profusely... In the end I bought some of this material (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384139905196?hash=item597085c8ac:g:2QsAAOSwF05gkV3s) & knocked up a pair of covers.
  13. Unless you want the added features of the Pro version, what you have is free (you can still make a donation) see https://github.com/marcocipriani01/Telescope.Touch
  14. In "Device Manager", under "Ports (COM & LPT)", if you right click & select properties, what does the HitecAstro show as the manufacturer ? I make my own adaptors using either the newer Prolific chipsets or the FTDI chipset, and so load hardware drivers appropriate for those chipsets.
  15. Even with the older type mount, it's what I have, don't connect via the handset (and putting it into PC direct mode), plug it directly into the port that the handset plugs into....
  16. Honestly, I would still suspect the USB connectivity between the obsy & the PC, especially, as pointed out, if you have recently applied any w$ updates to ver. 20H2 (19042.1110), which have had some some hardware 'fixes'....
  17. and what happens when you put the pc in the obsy and run everything locally ? i.e. don't use the USB extender etc...
  18. FYI, The title says it all, but for those toying with imaging manipulation software, Affinity Photo now allows direct importing of FITS files (at the bottom https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/54243-fits-file-format/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-818566)
  19. I've had one of those linked sharpeners for a number of years, and as Steve says, don't expect to get accurate results, but for quick jobs, especially a quick drill bit honing etc., they are ideal. For super accuracy, angles & square cutting surfaces etc., I have an oil-stone with accurate jigs, which takes a little longer to use, but for plane blades, which require dual angles, will always produce the best results.
  20. What are you actually cooling ?? the body or the sensor, which ideally is what is required to be cooled ....
  21. have a look at this http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/
  22. for driving the mount, have a look for EQMod Ascom drivers etc.... Nina doesn't have to use a planetarium software, but its much easier, when you have one around (Stellarium, CDC etc.), as all the software link up with each other as long as you've installed & configured all the relevant drivers etc....
  23. and the mount is ??...... is the power supply sufficient & accurate ? and the motors properly engaging with the gears and there is no sloppiness\binding ??
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