Merlin66

A nice rendition either way.... I think the surface is a little over cooked.

Rusted, The zero gain for the ASI 174 is 189, I set to this in FireCapture and gamma to 50. Vary the exposure to bring the rhs of the histogram to around 85-90%

What's the latest status on the various LowSpec builds? Been quiet for a while.

Hmmmm Silly question....but why not just remove the reducer??

Not a recommended combination..... The end result would be a 0.8 x 2 (or 4) = 1.6 magnification. Before you ask.....you can stack the TV Powermates to give addition magnification - two x2 PM will give x4. (I confirmed this while solar imaging)

Very nice! (If you vertically flip the image it would match GONG images)

They "compensate" each other...the f ratio remains unchanged. (I wouldn't recommend using this configuration - added glass, added problems for no gain)

I went through the same decision making for my ASI 174MM (and ASI 1600mm) which I use for solar imaging (and the spectroheliograph) In the end I went for a sexy MSI gaming machine - USB3, i7 processor, 16Gb memory, 1Tb SSD drive - it's FAST!!! I can run at up to 400 fps. Using FireCapture, AS3! and ImPPG.

Using FireCapture... For the ASI 290MM the zero gain is 110 and set the gamma to 50. Vary the exposure to bring the right hand edge of the histogram to around 85-90%.

Hmm your gamma and gain look different to what I’d expect. I don’t know your zero gain but assume around 120 and set gamma to 50.

Stu, I had these ..... There's a matching Small Magellanic Cloud photographic atlas... The Atlas Stellarum is one of the Hans Vehrenberg series of Atlases circa 1965. (I had both the north and south photographic and the atlas of selected areas I and II) These were advertised in S&T $30 each. Other popular atlases of the time I had were the Borealis, Eclipticalis, Australis series by Becvar ( in S&T for $37.50 the set in 1965) and his Skalnate Pleso Atlas of the Heavens - S&T $9.73 These and many mor were in my collection for many years...........

Christine, The Dec circles... You need 0 to +90 (northern hemisphere), 0 to-90 (southern hemisphere) The "extra" is to make it easier to read the circle, depending on the orientation of the telescope.

Good seeing certainly helps.....

Hmmmm Like worm and wheel drives the friction disk drive has been around for a long long time. Don’t think you can patent a well known drive system.

Ant, I only do solar imaging and spectroscopy.... but the Size of the solar disk is close to that of the full moon. At prime focus of your scope the disk would be 13.7mm to big for the usual sensors. You really want a fast frame mono CMOS camera... I use an ASI 1600MM for solar with an ED80 (600/80). You could consider adding a x0.5 reducer and a smaller chipped CMOS.

Well done! Some good results there...

Andy, CAUTION! The H alpha filters used in solar observing are a totally different animal to the night time filters. They are multi element construction, containing an energy reduction filter, etalon and blocking/ sort filters to achieve a bandwidth of <1A. Unfortunately that's why they are very expensive. The night time filters can be used in conjunction with a safe Baader Solar Film to improve contrast while viewing in white light. An O III filter gives similar results to the recommended Continuum filter.

Hmmmm... Not sure of your orientation Looks like this to me:

Rusted, Did you pick up the new AR just moving in from the East???

With smaller apertures the granulation (generally <one arc sec) is not visible. what can be seen is Supergranulation cells which are much bigger.

Using the x1.6 Barlow - OK for White Light and CaK but terrible NR in H alpha. Even the T2 tilter couldn't remove them! CaK shows the AR 2759 heading off and the new AR in the East... Ha showing the same.. Small faint proms SS SM60. Enjoy!

Many years ago I built the TSO (Tin Shed Observatory) based on a Canadian 8' x 6' Shed from Argos. This worked well for me in the Uk, in Belgium and in Oz. The TSO IV is still in use here in Victoria,

IMHO the "sweet spot" seems to be around 100 - 125mm aperture. Under good/ very good seeing you should get some worthwhile white light results.

Louis, You need aperture to really see the granulation, and good seeing, the cells are only around one arc sec. I’d say the 8” with the Baader Solar film would give you the best chance.

Using the Continuum filter improves contrast for both visual and imaging. IMHO for bang per buck the Lunt 1.25" would do the job. Don't expect to see much granulation - you really need a larger scope. (I use the Baader Cool Herschel wedge)