Jump to content

NLCbanner2024.jpg.2478be509670e60c2d6efd04834b8b47.jpg

Merlin66

Members
  • Posts

    13,036
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Merlin66

  1. Andy, In my experience it’s 100% easier to set up the OAG during the day. once the imaging camera and the guide camera are both in focus, they will also be in focus for all other objects. I ‘ve been using the equivalent of an “on axis guider” - a reflective slit plate for spectroscopy for the past ten years - no major issues.
  2. I installed ASPS a few years ago, tried and it worked....but haven't used it for a while. http://www.astrogb.com/astrogb/All_S...te_Solver.html I've been using Astrometry.net for plate solving.... I usually take an image from my 60mm, 227 fl eFinder to verify FOV, Using the DMK51, 4.4 micron pixel, 1600 x 1200 array. Astrometry solves in a couple of minutes - never failed. I've gone back to ASPS, checked the Indexes are OK for the finder, but it just times out...... Any ideas? (The attached finder image is typical.)
  3. Steve, On all my solar ED80's I've fitted a geared tooth belt drive to the 10:1 focuser knob. Using the SW/Orion accutrac motor. Works well for me.
  4. CCDCalc can also be used to check the field coverage and pixel sampling... http://www.newastro.com/book_new/camera_app.html As Olly says, leave the megapixel sensors to the traditional family photographers - their sizing descriptions are a nightmare!!!
  5. Mark, All the Powermates are similar design. I've used them all on solar imaging...... They are constructed in two parts - the top part where the eyepiece would sit is removable, and for imaging is usually replaced with a TV T2 thread adaptor. Your camera then fits to this T thread. The bottom part with the chromed barrel is fixed. There's no option but to use the Powermate with a 1.25" (or 2") focuser.
  6. Not my images, but taken from a previous thread on OAG. If I remember correctly there's an optimum back focus spacing on the Edge to the focus. If you've set the imaging camera to this spacing then the only variable you have left is the guide camera positioning........
  7. The ST80 is designed to be used with a star diagonal. ideally when imaging you remove the diagonal and replace it with a 50mm spacer adaptor.
  8. If you want to image the solar surface and prominences in H alpha, no expense spared then look at the DAYSTAR professional filters. You’ll also need a suitable ERF. unfortunately there is no current amateur (or for that matter professional) instruments being produced to allow viewing of the solar corona. This requires a dedicated Chronograph situated at high altitude with perfect seeing.
  9. Sounds like you have a SW EQ mount and a Synscan controller. The very old V2 Synscan can't be upgraded. Any V3 (or later) will work 100%. The serial "update" cable needs a Serial>USB adaptor - I use a Keyspan adaptor which has worked well for the past ten years. This is not correct. Any version of Synscan (even the ol' V2) will give tracking rates.
  10. Nigella, I'm sure it will all come good.... While you're waiting for the cable, when you download EQMod it also downloads the excellent users manual - to the same folder. Well worth reading through.... If I can assist further just let me know.
  11. Nice set-up.....you have the same cable issues I have I use EQMod/ CdC to control my HEQ6. Local laptop running all the camera/ PHD stuff and latest ASCOM and EQMod You don't normally need the "Pad" - this seems to be a default on the download page you need: https://sourceforge.net/projects/eq-mod/files/EQASCOM/EQASCOM_V200q_Setup.exe/download I use a EQDir cable between the laptop and the mount...leave the handcontroller in the drawer.... I power up the mount etc then open CdC, use the connect Icon to bring up the ASCOM screen, set this to EQMod Ascom HEQ5/6 and press connect. This then brings up the EQMod control panel. You can set your preferred park position (to clear the roof) and use the mini direction keys to slew the scope.
  12. Yeah, The 102/ 1000 will definitely look like a refractor But in any wind, on a small AZ mount it will be a disaster! I use a 102/1100 as a solar scope mounted on an HEQ5 mount, and in the wind it's a real PITA! The Mak is a good straight forward design, minimal issues - worth reconsidering.....
  13. Steve, Pete says the middle image is the IR image. The Blue filter is #3.
  14. Definitely harder to image ( not a visual object) but similar to those seen in H alpha.
  15. Geoff, Any CaK proms will also be visible in the H alpha images..
  16. Craig, I think you're comparing a reflector (all mirror elements) with any other telescope...... I've used both and honestly can't tell the difference down in the UV. (My ol' Genesis 4" f5 Petzval 4 element design gave good spectra down to the Balmer limit.)
  17. Any updates? I would be nice to see some results from the work and effort being expended on this great project. Ken
  18. Yes, The X axis is calibrated wavelength in Angstroms, the Y axis is arbitrary intensity levels of the spectral plot. You can see a reflection of the camera QE curve and the underlying spectral intensity of the star.... the intensity at 4200A is around 90K and drops to <10K(?) by 3700A. The actual Plank curve of an A type star in this area peaks around 4000A then drops off towards the Balmer limit at 3650A.....
  19. I use AS3! for all my solar processing.... 1. Open your AVI file 2. Set Image Stabilization to surface 3. Quality Estimator to Local 4. Press the Analyse tab After the frames have been analysed and the quality graph comes up... 5. Set the box(es) under stack options - each box is independent and can provide up to 4 different images from 4 different settings. Start with setting best "50%" (on the second row. 0% in the other boxes. 5. Go to the frame view screen... set alignment points - size to 48 and click "place AP grid" The image should now show a maze of grid lines... 6. Press "Stack" tab and wait until it shows "Done" in the bottom bar. 7. The resulting image should be saved in the same folder as the AVI, in a sub-folder "AS_P50" (the P50 changes if you select other # of frames to stack) Hope that helps...
  20. The Coronado RichView SM60 external etalon mounted externally on a Lunt 60 solar scope. It can also be fitted to any available refractor and used with a blocking filter as a separate solar H alpha scope. I use one on my ED80....
  21. Well done, great shots! If the cloud down here ever departs I may be able to image....
  22. I use both an HEQ5 and a NEQ6... No, the mount unfortunately (!!!) will keep slewing in the chosen direction until the telescope hits the mount and stops..... (Using EQMod you can set limits to avoid this emergency)
  23. Pretty good! What filters (if any) were you using? Craig, I question this..I've been using an SCT (C11) for many years for spectroscopy and can get down to 3700A (in the UV) with no issue. The camera response curve is more of a concern, it drops quickly to zero below 4000A.
  24. This is a common issue....forget the EQpad....you need to download EQAscom_V200q_setup https://sourceforge.net/projects/eq-mod/files/EQASCOM/ That will get you going.
  25. Nigella, look at my earlier image...you’ll see I fitted a stop to the dovetail, makes it 100% easier to mount the dovetail and balance the OTA.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.