Merlin66

I’d start with a 6 x 6mm size......when you see and record a guide image you can refine the size.

Jiggy, I’ve been using the SW/ Orion motors for many years- I now have six of them on various telescopes. I honestly don’t think there is any solenoid in the motors. When the power is applied there is a degree of reverse braking effect. IMHO they are a very effective, cost effective, solution to semi- remote focuser operation. Recommended.

I'm pretty sure it started with the advent of webcams and CCD's. The ability to use faster frame rates to "freeze" the seeing conditions gave rise to some images which were exceptional - the results of "lucky imaging". (Previously using film this type of result would not have been possible)

James, OK, sounds like you need the change the spacers on the main imaging camera to give more room for the OAG/ Guide camera to work. I've been using a "on axis" guider - the reflective slit plate on the spectrograph, on the C11 @ f10 successfully for many years. Once you're set up it will work!!

+1 for the Maier Photonics ITF. I've used them for repairs for over ten years. I'm aware of only one failure in all that time, which was put down to a bad batch. They seem to last much longer than the Meade/ Coronado original.

AFAIK, all CMOS cameras cannot be binned at the sensor level. Any binning must be applied by software later. All the CCD cameras can bin at sensor level....

All's well that ends well. I'll send you a PM. Ken

+1 for the HEQ5pro

I should have said, the 12V to 15V convertor is used both with batteries (2 x 20Ah gel cell golf buggy batteries) and the 240V to 12V 10A transformer.

To ensure minimal hassles with power..... For the past ten years or so I've used a 120W car laptop convertor - 12V to 15V to power both my HEQ5pro and NEQ6pro mounts.

My bad... I've edited my post.

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+1 for the power supply... you need around 2.5A max when slewing both axis.

Hmmmmm Bit of a mixed bag there..... other than saving the cost of an EQDir cable, I really like to hear from EQMod users.

With the addition of a USB connection port to the new SW EQ mounts, this seems to allow a standard USB cable to now be used to connect your laptop and CdC/ EQMod rather than using either the "PC direct" settings with the Synscan or an EQDir cable to the hand controller port on the mount. Are there any user feedback/ comments on this method of connecting the mount (using EQMod)??? More reliable? or what???

Hmmmmm This also works on the “freeware” V2.9 version.....

Must be other options....but just "updated" the local astrometry link in ASPS and tried that again. Now solves the eFinder image.

I downloaded ANSVR, but can't see how to use it outside SGP????? Obviously needs an "interface"?????

I just use the JMI focus motor on my C11 for spectroscopy. Works very well for me.... remote operation from the laptop.

Ok. I've found the problem.... The image I uploaded was 1600 x 1200 but it appears as a 1200 x 900 !!!! This causes the change in eFinder focal length. Hopefully the new attached image is OK. Believe it or not while messing around trying to find the problem, ASPS managed to give me a solve! I looked at ASTAP but it appears to need a minimum of thirty star images...not possible with the eFinder. Thanks to stash_old for the help and input.

The original Celestron OAG had a tapered pin which allowed the prism to be tilted....

Hmmmm... The astrometry.net solving gives a 227mm fl.............

Yeah but...... The prism only represents a small part of a mirror diagonal - it's at the outer edege. In my diagram I try to show that the prism needs to be re-aligned (tilted) to bring the image "on-axis" to the guide camera - hence the poor images in an OAG.

Micheal, with the reflective slit plates we use in spectroscopy we are “on axis” so we don’t have the same restrictions. The point is to to focus the imaging camera then find the guide camera focus.... I would make the point that the guide prism needs to be rotated to give the best focus...

I gave up on the ASI 174 on the ED80. It’s OK with longer fl, but the ASI 1600 gives better results. I haven’t checked the camera temperatures (I use FireCapture) but I’m not sure that it is an issue. You could cover the scope/ camera with a thermal blanket. I also have an ASI 1600MM-C so could experiment with different camera temperature settings.