AnonymousAnimosity

Thank you! I used Startools for processing.

A quick picture of the Beehive Cluster.

My first two pictures with this lens, Star adventurer and modded canon 100D. Stacked in Siril and quickly processed with StarTools. 72x120" lights at f2, calibrated with flats and biases 91x120" lights at f2.8 with l-enhance filter, calibrated with flats, biases and darks. Dark optimization in siril does seem to reduce pattern noise a bit.

I would like to mount on this 30mm guidescope, it looks like it should fit even if I file the rear of the base.

Today I finally picked up the WO redcat ring, sadly it clashes with my camera so rotation is impossible. I am not sure whether I should try to file it or just return it and buy something else.

I've been using a star adventurer with camera lenses for some time and I was contemplating the same decision recently, I can offer a few comments on the scopes you have linked based on my limited knowledge. You will need a field flattener (more or less specific for each scope) unless you buy one that already comes with it, such as the TS Optics EDPH 61/274, so budget that in as well I have seen some good results from people shooting at focal lenghts over 300mm on a star adventurer, but keep in mind that your polar alignment will have to be spot on every time, the lengths of your su

Thank you, since the Redcat ring is out of stock for a while I am looking for some alternatives. Mounting the guidescope to the support ring of the lens seems like the easiest way, but I'm struggling to find telescope rings of the right size, I can only find smooth ones (no holes to screw in a finder shoe). Perhaps drilling a couple of holes in these? I'm not sold on 3D printed PLA ones like astrokraken or astrojolo/ Do you know of any alternatives?

I have just purchased this lens, I intend to use it with a Canon 100D on a Star adventurer (might swap it for an Az-GTI for mosaic automation). To mount the lens I will buy the William Optics Redcat ring and a short dovetail. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/william-optics/william-optics-redcat-spacecat-single-mounting-ring-black.html What is the best option for a guidescope? If I'm not mistaken this 32mm guide scope from FLO should be appropriate for my image scale. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/astro-essentials-32mm-f4-mini-guide-scope.html Is it

For now a raspberry pi running astroberry seems like a cheap solution to many problems, it should help with consistent focusing, faster framing and dithering to get rid of walking noise. I thought that stacking lights from multiple nights with slightly different framing would be akin to dithering but it doesn't seem to solve the problem. Undersampling seems unavoidable with a DSLR and the focal lengths I'm imaging at. But I will keep it in mind if I decide to upgrade the camera.

I would like to take pictures of better quality where the background is smooth and fine detail is well defined when zooming in, something that would look good as a wallpaper or maybe even printed. I am aware that processing is absolutely key, but I don't think I can acquire data that is sufficiently clean and sharp to get the sort of results I have in mind. Another concern is maximising the opportunities to shoot, the amount of data I can gather (faster optics basically?) and the number of targets that I can frame up nicely (longer focal length?).

I apologise in advance for the long post! Hello, I would appreciate some advice and perspective on finding the most cost-efficient way of optimizing my current astrophotography setup. I am in no hurry to upgrade as I have yet to push my current equipment to its limits, but I feel like I need a sort of long-term plan and sense of direction to keep myself from getting the "shiny new object syndrome" and compulsively browsing FLO whenever I see nice pictures. My first year of astrophotography was with an unmodified pentax K-S1, a tripod, a 50mm lens and very cold hands since the camera

That is what I meant yes. I do believe we have the same lens judging by your picture. In the previous post the images of the three channels were in the wrong order, the out of focus one is red, so green and blue are very close. The filter definitely alters the focus across the 3 channels a bit, these are excerpts (R, G, B.) from a picture that was taken without.

I have been using this lens for a couple of months and I've never managed to focus properly with liveview, maybe it would be easier with the camera connected to a PC. Yesterday I tried making a quick Y mask and realized that as you pointed out when the spike is centered the red channel is actually way out of focus leading to red halos around the stars. Maybe it would be helpful to still use the mask balancing the spike's position in the 3 separate channels? This is a comparison of the 3 channels of a quick picture from last night taken with a modified canon 100D and a clip in l-enhance fi

Here's a picture of the Sadr region at 135mm (Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f3.5 at f4) with a modded canon 100D and the Optolong L-Enhance clip-in filter. 74x180" lights at ISO 800 plus flats and biases. Stacked in DSS and processed in startools, perhaps too aggressively. It was taken from a bortle 6 town a few days ago when the moon was almost full.

What kind of power supply would you suggest for powering a DSLR in low temperatures (0 Celsius and below)?