Observatory Security Systems and Insurance

[DeepSkyMan]

Hi there, I’m looking to put in place a wireless security system and insurance coverage for my home observatory.  Can anyone provide recommendations for

1/. A tried and trusted security system incorporating exterior lighting, WiFi controlled sensors/cameras, preferably a DIY solution (rather than a contracted option such as ADT)

2/. An insurance solution tried and trusted from a home obsy perspective.

Kind Regards

Paul.

 

[Nigella Bryant]

I just installed a DIY wifi alarm system for both observatory. Connected to the indoor security box and alarm. Simple to install. 

Both observatories and equipment are covered on my home insurance with specific items listed with value. 

[Swoop1]

I've just upgraded the CCTV at the shop using a Swann kit purchased from Screwfix. They do wirelss options or wired cameras that have 18m cables with options for 2, 4 or 6 cameras.

Also very simple to install though you need to be aware of the inbuilt lights that the cameras have if installing to protect imaging kit.

[discardedastro]

Keep sensors/alarm stuff separate from CCTV. Makes life much easier and you can always do simple contact-closure links if you want e.g. alarm to trigger CCTV.

Reolink are pretty well regarded for CCTV. They have turnkey kits with a network video recorder and cameras, but you can assemble your own. Avoid the white light ones, make sure all your imaging filters have IR cut and you'll be fine in practice. PoE makes life much easier for cabling, too. Wire everything - wireless can be done but in my experience isn't worth the hassle- better to get the hassle over and done with once by putting cables in and usually very easy on outbuildings anyway!

Alarms - lots of cheap and cheerful solutions out there. Again would opt for wired "dumb" alarms over wireless fancy things any day of the week, but I'm allergic to cloud stuff! Texecom do some cheaper options e.g. Veritas series, or smaller all-in-one panels which can be IP/LAN/cloud enabled if you want via ComIP modules. Those will just make lots of noise if they get triggered. Which then begs the question of detection. PIRs and other motion tech will get triggered on a moving roof or telescope (or airflow, sudden illumination changes, etc) so if you're aiming for unattended operation you'll need to consider that. You can of course still go for e.g. contact closures and/or shock sensors to detect people breaking the door down, beam-break sensors, and so on.

Exterior lighting - just get a dumb PIR and wire up a regular outside light. But think about how you isolate this if you want to maintain a dark environment for observing nights! False positives will happen a lot with external PIRs due to wind, swaying plants, etc etc. You should also think carefully about glare. If you're lighting from the observatory, for instance, you're probably going to be blinded by the light if you're looking towards it. Effective security lighting should mostly light the ground up, avoid shining you in the eyes, etc. So probably best on your house shining out towards the observatory.

We have two sheds with kit in and will be adding an observatory; the back garden doesn't have any PIR sensors but the approaches (front/side) do and lighting on the walls facing down so false activations don't upset the telescopes. Alarm likewise covers the approaches, as does CCTV, but there's more CCTV covering the outbuildings and telescope (all IR lit).

[Carbon Brush]

Good advice from the above. In particular keeping cameras, lights and alarm as separate and simple devices.
Separate systems can be replaced if they break, or modified, or upgraded with experience.

My take on an alarm panel is to use a decent car alarm, unfortunately they are not so popular in the after market these days.
Mine, fitted 2007, is still going strong.
The idea is that it is designed to work at temperature extremes and be frugal on a 12V power supply/battery.
Home alarms sometimes consume a lot of power and may not handle cold and damp too well.
Your home alarm is not usually active 24/7. An observatory alarm is inactive for a few hours in a month. Power consumption is worth considering.
A car alarm is geared up to inputs from poor quality door/bonnet switches on long wires, and usually has shock sensor.
A home alarm usually assumes decent quality reed switches in a dry environment.
You can put industrial limit switches (think big microswitches with adjustable levers) to detect door/roof opening, etc.
A wire run around a wood shed will break if a board is removed.
A shock sensor will trigger if someone tries to hammer off hinges.

On trigger, make a LOT of noise and bright lights inside the observatory.
If the villain can't hear himself think, or see if anyone is approaching, he will probably leave.
If it is loud enough to damage hearing if you stay inside - not your problem.
We all ignore an alarm ringing - if it isn't ours.

Don't forget in your construction to ensure there is not a quick easy entry point, and don't make the places obvious.
For example a big strong padlock & hasp says 'valuables behind here'.
Keep the strength hidden.
My roll of shed observatory appears to have an ordinary shed lock and external shed hinges.
Needless to say you can try your crowbar on these, but the door won't open or come off. The strength is elsewhere.

You may find the home insurance a bit of a problem. These days insurance companies are about evading payment. Not acknowledging the responsible customer.
But don't get me started on insurance company payout avoidance techniques!
 

[iapa]

I use home insurance for kit that isn’t bolted down, with items over £2k explicitly detailed.

Glover and Howe provide specialist insurance for photographers and astrophotographers.