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Full Disc 20-6-20

Zakalwe

By Zakalwe
in Imaging - Solar

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inFINNity Deck

inFINNity Deck

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Stephen, can you explain how you process your images? You obviously do it in a different way than I do, and I would like to learn from you. I explained my processing methods (both for Lunt and Baader sun-foil) on a Dutch forum, but I am pretty sure your browser will translate it for you. 😉

thanks,

Nicolàs

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Zakalwe

Zakalwe

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33 minutes ago, inFINNity Deck said:

Stephen, can you explain how you process your images? You obviously do it in a different way than I do, and I would like to learn from you. I explained my processing methods (both for Lunt and Baader sun-foil) on a Dutch forum, but I am pretty sure your browser will translate it for you. 😉

thanks,

Nicolàs

Hi Nicolas,

To be honest we seem to use similar workflows. I've noticed a couple of differences though:

  1. In Autostakkert I always use "Place APs in a grid" and modify the Min Bright value to ensure that APs are placed near the solar limb. This results in many thousands of APs, but I find that it gives me the sharpest image across the disc. I think this is a throwback to the way I process Lunar images. It certainly lengthens the processing time, but it's worth it.
  2. In ImPPG I always sharpen. I set the Sigma in both the LR and Unsharp masking panels to roughly the same, usually between 1.3xxx and 1.8xxx. I tend to apply a lot of USM..anywhere from 5 to 9. However subtlety is needed here.....I dislike when the spicules start to thicken. I like to keep these as fine as possible. Its very easy to go too far, so I like to stay on the slightly softer side. The High Pass filter in step 4 does a great job of making the spicules and details "pop".
  3. I also use ImPPG to invert part of the images. Personally I think that an inverted disc blending into "normal" proms looks the most pleasing.
  4. In Photoshop I rarely use UnSharp Masking. I tend to correct the levels on the image and then duplicate the layer. Set the new layer blending mode to Soft Light and then apply a High Pass filter. To sharpen the spicules I will use a low setting, usually under 3 pixels. I sometimes repeat this and use a much higher value to affect the overall disc. The layer opacity can be altered to suit.
    These layers are flattened and Levels corrected.
  5. For colourisation I use Ken Crawfords Photoshop action "Solar Bright"  Ive learned a lot from Ken's tutorials.
    I always spend a lot of time fiddling with the Shadows/MidTones/Highlights to get the colours how I like them. I get a lot of inspiration from the colour choices that Alan Friedman uses (though I wish that I had his skills!)
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inFINNity Deck

inFINNity Deck

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Hi Stephen,

thanks for your explanation, indeed quite similar and yet full of differences. I have tried your method, adapting it to PSP as I do not have PhotoShop. I lowered the sigma values to match the difference in resolution between our cameras. Thanks for the Ken Crawfords tutorials, will have a look at them, there appears to be a lot of info in there. My first (meagre) attempt already shows more prominences than my normal method, but the solar disc is too black now:

Sun_200619_old_new.thumb.jpg.10b5b6257e3252ada7820c04ef850afb.jpg

cheers,

Nicolàs

PS: I came across Alan Friedman before, his work is amazing indeed...

Edited by inFINNity Deck
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Zakalwe

Zakalwe

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1 hour ago, inFINNity Deck said:

Hi Stephen,

thanks for your explanation, indeed quite similar and yet full of differences. I have tried your method, adapting it to PSP as I do not have PhotoShop. I lowered the sigma values to match the difference in resolution between our cameras. Thanks for the Ken Crawfords tutorials, will have a look at them, there appears to be a lot of info in there. My first (meagre) attempt already shows more prominences than my normal method, but the solar disc is too black now:

Sun_200619_old_new.thumb.jpg.10b5b6257e3252ada7820c04ef850afb.jpg

cheers,

Nicolàs

PS: I came across Alan Friedman before, his work is amazing indeed...

Looks like you're being a bit heavy-handed with the curves adjustment in ImPPG, to me.

 

Also, use the "Adaptive" setting. It's very powerful when you want to bring out the proms. It allows you to set a different sharpening level for the data that's buried near the black point in the image.  It also allows you to "feather" the sharpening so it ramps up as the data gets stonger. This helps to control the noise in the background

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Zakalwe

Zakalwe

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5 minutes ago, richard ashbee said:

do you use anything to get rid of Newton's rings

No, not on the L60 and ASI 178. I'm pleased about that as I recently purchased the 178 camera to get quick full disc images. The lunt is ideally suited to grabbing quick data as it is so easy and quick to tune. Being able to fit the full disc onto the chip was a big factor in opting for the 178.  If I Barlow it then I get pretty bad NRs.

On my Quark and ASI174 I have to use a tilt adapter.

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