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I am really worried that I may have broken my new telescope.
It said it was going to be 100% clear tonight, so I prepped Celeste Bubble, my new 8" Celestron Evolution, and took her outside for her first light.
Within an hour it was 100% cloud cover
Within that hour, mutiple attempts at aligning my scope failed. I was using a smart phone and the SkyPortal app with Star Sense. I had the Star Sense HC completely unplugged, btw. A few people advised me to do that to try and help ensure it wouldn't affect m using the Sky Portal app. I am not so worried about the alignment failing.
What I am worried about is that during one of my failed alignments, the scope ended up trying to plate solve my house. So, being the lazy cow that I am, rather than pick up the telescope and move it to face clear sky, I simply loosened the azimuth clutch and spun it around 180 degrees.
After I did that, the scope would not track anymore. I could hear the motors turning (or doing something) but whatever I had in my eyepiece was moving out of view. It was tracking OK before this - I manually (clutches) aligned to Jupiter so as to at least see something and it was tracking Jupiter fine.
I checked the scope settings on my phone and it was set to track Sidereal, it hadn't been switched off by accident.
I tried another alignment which failed and that's when I spun the mount around 180 using the azimuth clutch.
Do You think I have broken something? Have you heard of this before? Is there some sort of reset or something I can do?
What a disaster of an evening.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give me
I'm on an EQ3 and I have had trouble calibrating it.
I'm trying to calibrate the reticule but ....
It seems that barrel of the polarscope is off axis in the tube - it sort of moves the whole image around, as if you were swirling a pair of binoculars around.
Maybe I can make a video.
Is it time for me to buy a fresh one that I didn't meddle with?
The outcome is that I can only shoot 20second images before the stars elongate.
I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope or camera, ideally using APT scripts
My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down?
If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn
Hi All, I am posting what I suspect is a newbie mistake question but hoping that someone can assist with the issue of flats.
Although I have been fumbling around the sky, taking snaps at leisure, recently I became serious. I have read up about the different calibration files (flats, darks, bias) and they seemed to make sense; different ways to capture the image defects and extract those from the image of the sky. After a few weeks (months) of further fumbling I went back to the very first target to receive my attention, M42 Orion Nebula.
In short, I took 20x 30s exposures in LRGB and ran these along with 20x LRGB each of darks, bias and flats. To obtain the flats I used a diffuse sheet of perspex (lightbox material) and an LED video lamp that has 180 white LEDs, turned to its lowest setting. Attached below is the stacked Luminance flat and the light image. In the lights I am getting very strong marks from dust and I had thought that the flats would subtract this but looking at the flats the marks are completely different shapes and do nothing to remove them from the lights.
The attached has been further stretched to show the issue. Now, I am obviously doing something wrong but I have no idea what, any pointers from the vast pool of knowledge will be much appreciated.
First post here, and I'm pretty new to AP, just picked up a Star Adventurer mount a couple months ago and have been happily playing around with it with DSLR and various lenses and a 72mm Sky-Watcher refractor. I'm new to the whole setup process, and I'm trying to do a decent job of leveling the tripod/mount, polar alignment, and I should probably think more about balancing the weight of things. I've gotten some decent shots, like 60-120 second subs with up to 300mm lens. My last time out I was getting star trails at 200mm and 15 second exposures, which could have been just a sloppy polar alignment, but today out of curiosity I looked through the polar scope and rotated the RA axis 360 degrees, and I saw that the target circle jumped a few times. I'm guessing that the target circle should appear not to move while the numbers 3, 6, 9, 12 would rotate around as I rotate the RA axis. So my guess is that the polar scope would need to be calibrated?