Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
I'm on an EQ3 and I have had trouble calibrating it.
I'm trying to calibrate the reticule but ....
It seems that barrel of the polarscope is off axis in the tube - it sort of moves the whole image around, as if you were swirling a pair of binoculars around.
Maybe I can make a video.
Is it time for me to buy a fresh one that I didn't meddle with?
The outcome is that I can only shoot 20second images before the stars elongate.
I've created my own darks library for my ASI1600mm Pro. Various gains and various exposure times all at -10 Celsius.
I'm just wondering what people do with them? Once you've taken darks and processed an image you get your master darks.
Do you guys just keep the master dark, in a master darks library, or do you process your darks again each time you stack a new image?
I'm just thinking to save storage, could I discard the dark sub frames and just keep the masters? I don't want to throw them away if that is wrong though.
Also, with this camera I take dark flats rather than bias frames. Because the scope is covered, do I need to do dark flats each time I take flats?
I have an even illuminated flat box which I always use at the same exposure lengths. I guess the only thing that could vary is the gain value.
I understand the need for flats every time you change focus, for each filter etc., but if I'm using the same exposure time can I just use a previous set of dark flats as long as the camera settings are the same?
If this is possible, can I then create a dark flats library for any difference in gain values? Not sure if I gain values affect dark flats though.
I've read that back, and that's a lot of questions! All help greatly received.
Hi, I have taken mono LRGB images of M51 with my new ASI1600mm-PRO.
I have a mix of 30s, 60s, 120s subs. 100 darks, and 100 flats for each filter. About 4 hours total.
I Used DSS for alignment and stacking, then Pixinsight for LRGB combination.
My issue is that i'm not happy with the colours, the stars all appear white and the background is strange.
I have attached the Aligned LRGB images.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
Green.TIF red.TIF Lum.TIF B.TIF
I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope or camera, ideally using APT scripts
My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down?
If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn
I know, I know, this has been discussed endlessly here and elsewhere, but I've read lots and watched lots and some of it I understood and some of it I didn't. A lot of it I didn't, actually, mainly because every time I think I get it, someone else contradicts what I think I've 'got'.
I've reduced it all to this, regardless of the number of lights I take, assuming I'm using a DSLR, with all the below steps at the same ISO value as the shoot:
Bias - 50 frames with the cap on, exposure time=shortest
Darks - 50 with the cap on, exposure=as per shoot
Dark Flats - 25 with the cap on, exposure=AV mode
Flats - 25 with the cap off, diffuse white frames eg t-shirt with light behind it or morning sun, exposure=AV mode
I know everyone has their own take on this (which is kind of my problem understanding it) but, reducing this to the very, very, very basics, as a starting point for a total noob with calibration... would this work?