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Pompey Monkey

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About Pompey Monkey

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    Proto Star

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  • Interests
    Astronomy, cycling, science.
  • Location
    Hampshire, UK
  1. HEQ5 Pro with your 300mm lens would be a great start. There is a mantra in deep sky astrophotography that goes: "Mount, mount, mount...". I'm sure you'll hear this quite a lot! 😀
  2. Daytime Polar Alignment III

    Yes, move the mount in azimuth only. As for the tripod legs, it only matters if, as in the skywatcher mounts, there is limited movement in azimuth due to the lug that the adjustment screws push against.
  3. QHY Polemaster HELP

    That could be problematic- Polaris needs to be in the fov of the polemaster for it to work. Have you considered converting you house to a bungalow?
  4. QHY Polemaster HELP

    I took my Polemaster to La Palma a couple of months back. Polaris was about 1 degree above the mountainous horizon at my villa. PA with the Polemaster was no problem.
  5. M16 Eagle Nebula bi-colour

    Very nice! I have a few hours of NB on M16 myself... Unfortunately I'm suffering from a little bit of "processors block" atm! I'll get there in the end.
  6. light pollution help

    Matlab starts from about £100 for a home user license*. Then you have to program it... I suspect that if you don't already know about what it is and how to program , then it will not be a good choice for your image processing. Pixinsight costs about £200 for a license. It comes with a graphical interface, and all of the functions and utilities that you need to process your images built in. It's a steep learning curve, but nothing like learning Matlab from scratch. And don't forget that you can get a subscription to Photoshop, which is equally as popular as Pixinsight, for about £9 a month. Other image processing packages are available, but I have not used these and therefore can't add any useful comment. *You might also need to buy one or more "toolkits" at £29 each to process images too, but I'm not sure.
  7. Celestron 70mm Travelscope as a Guider

    Absolutely! TBH, I thought that you wanted to do DSOs with the SC... My bad.
  8. Celestron 70mm Travelscope as a Guider

    I think you might be heading for some disappointment when it comes to imaging DSOs: This is a 20 lb OTA on a mount rated at 30 lb. Even without the weight of the camera(s) and guide scope (not to mention a possible filter wheel) and you'll be pushing closer towards the manufacturers specced maximum weight. It is a general rule of thumb that 1/2 - 2/3 of the stated payload is about the maximum weight that a mount can handle and perform reliably enough for long exposure imaging. On top of that, F10 is very slow and the 2350 mm focal length will require a seriously accurate mount/guiding combo to work well. Or are you intending to go the Hyperstar route? Planets, on the other hand, are imaged with many short exposures (video) and any inaccuracies in guiding will be compensated for by the staking and alignment software. As a DSO imager, I'm sure that someone with more experience at planetary imaging will come along with more info soon HTH
  9. Celestron 70mm Travelscope as a Guider

    It would help a lot if we knew what imaging scope and mount you would be using. Even better if you put these details in your signature so that they appear in every post that you make. This will work retrospectively too!
  10. Will I regret getting the Heq5 ?

    What's the difference? Is it just the handset?
  11. Will I regret getting the Heq5 ?

    +1 for the HEQ5 I use mine with an Esprit 80ED (no lightweight!), SX filterwheel, SBIG 8300 CCD, and a "cloned" 50mm Orion finder guider. On an expedition last year, I think I only had to chuck about 5% of my 600 second subs. That was because it doesn't work quite so well about the meridian due to the backlash in RA.
  12. Overheating Canon 500D

    I bought an SBIG STF-8300M (about a year and a half ago) and haven't looked back. Even in the cold weather, it knocks spots off the DSLR. Also, perhaps from having no real interest in photography prior to astro-imaging, I find that the mono with filters approach much more intuitive to manage and control than OSC. Maybe it's because I'm and engineer...
  13. The best, by far and away, noise reduction method for DSLR imaging is to dither between exposures and then use a statistical rejection algorithm to disregard the outlier pixels in the stack. There are many algorithms that do this, but most people just call it "sigma" rejection.
  14. Great minds... Etc. 😀
  15. Have you got the auto noise correction on in the camera settings? This takes a second exposure of the same duration as the picture but with the shutter closed, to correct for noise on the sensor.