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Truss mount question


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Truss tube :-

Main plus point, makes a larger aperture scope more portable because it breaks down into smaller and lighter parts. 

Main minus  points, more complicated and expensive than a similar sized solid tube, longer set up time.

Solid tube :-

Main plus points, cheaper, simpler, less prone to losing collimation.

Main minus points, usually very heavy with larger sizes and takes up more room for transportation.

HTH Ed.

 

Edited by NGC 1502
correction
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In addtion to what @NGC 1502 said above:

Truss tube primary mirrors can also cool more quickly because there's no large column of warm air above them as in a solid tube.

Truss tubes are more prone to stray light intrusion and "tube" currents induced by body heat unless a shroud is used.

10 inches (250mm) is about the break-even point between the two designs.

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15" truss in my saloon car - takes 5mins to assemble, and an additional minute to collimate ;)  I've a solid tube 10", and the 15" is more convenient to throw into the car.  The 10" is a doddle for just lifting out to the garden though. 

Several members here have some really immpressively compact designs - eg Sumerian scopes.

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Sorry to jump in on this thread but what about keeping the mirror clean? I'm concerned I would kick up dust with my feet while observing. Do the truss owners here just plonk it on the ground or place it on a large sheet of plastic? 

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I think you're far better with a truss in large apertures because of tube currents and cooldown. I had one here in dry, dusty conditions, on a gravel observing site, without any issues at all. I can't agree that tube Dobs have a tube current advantage over truss designs because they trap the considerable thermal mass of the mirror in the tube. Although people are reluctant to do it I think research shows that fans blowing across the mirror are the most effective for breaking the boundary layer above the glass.

The proper Serrurier truss is also very ingenious because it is designed so as to keep any flexure in the least harmful plane. If it moves it does so while keeping the top and bottom sections parallel with each other.

Ours was never moved once we had it installed and once it had settled down it held collimation unbelievably well.

Olly

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To the OP: one 'disadvantage' is that you must be very comfortable collimating your scope - in the dark.  My 10" hardly ever needed adjustment  - it retained collimation ridiculously well.  I collimate my 15" every time, but with the right tool - i use a barlowed laser - it's not an issue.

Edited by niallk
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A GSO 12" Truss RC comes in at 24 kg, A GSO CF tube 12" RC is 18 kg, and my ODK12 is 19 kg,  so there looks to be a weight advantage to a solid tube design. I'm not sure about the GSO, but the ODK has three fans for ventilation.

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10 minutes ago, DaveS said:

A GSO 12" Truss RC comes in at 24 kg, A GSO CF tube 12" RC is 18 kg, and my ODK12 is 19 kg,  so there looks to be a weight advantage to a solid tube design. I'm not sure about the GSO, but the ODK has three fans for ventilation.

The whole point about a truss Dob is that the individual components split the weight much more than a conventional Dob, as well as taking up less room. So you don’t end up having to do your back in.

John

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9 minutes ago, westmarch said:

The whole point about a truss Dob is that the individual components split the weight much more than a conventional Dob, as well as taking up less room. So you don’t end up having to do your back in.

John

I wasn't talking about dobs. I'm nearly 100% imaging, and looking at the OP's equipment list I'd say imaging was high on his priorities (Sorry if I've misunderstood this) so I was answering from an imaging perspective. The Serrurier Truss does have many advantages, but as Olly implied above, must be correctly designed, and not just to look "cool".

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5 hours ago, Merlin66 said:

In my fifty years of astronomical experience I have never seen a proper amateur Serrurier Truss telescope. Never.

Truss designs are just that truss designs.

 

True, but there are plenty of commercially made Serrurier truss Ritchey Chretien telescopes in the price range of amateurs.

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Louis,

I don't believe even those commercial truss designs are actually Serrurier truss designs.

The truss sections need to vary with end load and all the joints to the central section etc. must be "pin joints" not bolted.

(My Bsc (Hons) was "The design and construction of the Issac Newton telescope". I was lucky enough to obtain copies of Mark Serrurier's original design papers and visited Grubb Parsons to discuss the INT design and construction. )

 

Edited by Merlin66
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I have a double truss mounted on an Equatorial mount (14" f4.53) - I didn't design it to be a serrurier either, but it's fairly well over engineered! I had trouble with the original Orion aluminium tube - it was too thin and flexed at the focuser with the weight of the camera/focuser, and the tube rings were too weak too.

Here's the build thread: 

Edited by coatesg
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